A shirt hem takes 20 to 30 minutes once you measure and pin

A shirt hem is a folded edge at the bottom of the garment, sewn down to keep it from unraveling and to set the final length. On a sewing machine, you fold the fabric twice (so raw edges are hidden inside), pin it in place, and stitch along the fold. The whole process—measuring, pinning, and sewing—takes about 20 to 30 minutes for a beginner, and the result lasts through many washes if you use the right thread and tension.

The key difference between a shirt hem and other hems is that shirt fabric is usually lightweight and drapes, so you need a stitch that won't pucker or break. A straight stitch works fine, but a narrow zigzag (width 1.5 to 2.0, length 2.0 to 2.5) is more forgiving because it stretches slightly as the fabric moves through the machine. You will also need a needle in the right size for your fabric—a size 70/10 or 80/12 for cotton or cotton blends—and thread that matches the shirt color.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure the desired hem length from the floor while wearing the shirt, mark it with chalk or a fabric pen, and add one inch for the fold.
  • Fold the raw edge up one-half inch, press it with an iron, then fold it up again to hide the raw edge completely before pinning.
  • Use a straight stitch or narrow zigzag at a medium speed, keeping the fold line just under the presser foot so the needle catches both layers evenly.
  • Test your tension and stitch length on a scrap of the same fabric before hemming the shirt, because puckering or loose stitches mean the hem will fail in the wash.

Measure and mark the hem length

Put on the shirt and stand in front of a mirror wearing the shoes you normally wear with it. Have someone measure from the floor to where you want the hem to end—usually one-half inch to one inch above the floor—or use a ruler and measure yourself. Mark that line all the way around the shirt with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk. The line does not have to be perfect; it just needs to show you where to fold.

Once you have marked the line, take the shirt off and lay it flat on a table. Measure one inch above your marked line and draw a second line all the way around. This second line is where you will cut off the excess fabric. If the original hem was very long (more than three inches), cut it down to one and one-half inches above your marked line to reduce bulk. Trim the excess with sharp fabric scissors, cutting in a straight line as close to your marked line as you can.

Fold and press the raw edge

Fold the bottom edge of the shirt up one-half inch along your marked line, with the wrong side of the fabric facing out (so the raw edge is on top). Press this fold flat with a warm iron—do not use steam yet, because moisture can make the fabric stretch. Run the iron along the entire hem, pressing for two to three seconds at a time, lifting and moving rather than sliding. This crease is your guide for the next fold.

Fold the edge up again, one-half inch, so the raw edge is now hidden inside the fold. Press this second fold the same way, running the iron along the entire hem. The result should be a clean, flat fold with no raw edges showing on the outside. If the fold is uneven or puckers, unfold it, smooth the fabric flat, and try again. A good press now means the hem will stay in place while you sew and will look neat when you are done.

Pin the hem before sewing

Place the shirt on a flat surface with the hem facing up. Insert pins perpendicular to the fold, spaced about two inches apart, going through all layers of fabric. The pins should go through the fold itself, not above or below it. Pin all the way around the shirt, making sure the fold stays even and the fabric does not bunch or twist as you pin.

Check the hem from the inside of the shirt as well. The fold should look smooth and even from both sides. If you see puckers or uneven spots, remove the pins in that area, smooth the fabric, and re-pin. Pinning takes a few extra minutes but prevents mistakes that are hard to fix once you start sewing.

Set up your sewing machine and test on scrap fabric

Thread your machine with thread that matches the shirt color. Use a size 70/10 or 80/12 needle for lightweight fabric. Set the stitch to a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag (width 1.5 to 2.0, length 2.0 to 2.5). Set the tension to medium—usually around 4 or 5 on a dial that goes from 0 to 9. If your machine has a presser foot pressure dial, set it to medium as well.

Cut a scrap of the same fabric as your shirt and fold it the same way you folded the hem. Sew a test line on the scrap, keeping the fold line just under the presser foot so the needle catches both layers evenly. Look at the stitches on both sides. They should be the same length and color, with no loops, puckers, or loose thread. If the stitches are too tight (fabric puckers), loosen the tension slightly. If they are too loose (thread hangs in loops), tighten the tension. Adjust and test again until the stitches look even.

Sew the hem with a steady pace

Position the shirt under the presser foot so the fold line is just under the needle. Lower the presser foot and the needle into the fabric. Sew forward slowly and steadily, keeping the fold line aligned with the edge of the presser foot or a marked line on the machine bed. Do not rush; a steady pace of about 4 to 5 inches per second gives you time to steer and keeps the stitches even.

As you sew, remove pins just before the needle reaches them—do not sew over pins, because the needle can break or bend. Keep your hands relaxed and let the machine feed the fabric; do not pull or push. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the shirt, lower the presser foot, and continue. Sew all the way around the shirt until you reach the starting point. Overlap the last few stitches with the first few to lock the thread, then backstitch two or three stitches and cut the thread.

Press the finished hem and check for loose threads

Turn the shirt right-side out and lay it flat. Press the hem from the outside with a warm iron, running the iron along the seam line. This sets the stitches and makes the hem lie flat. Press for two to three seconds at a time, lifting and moving the iron rather than sliding it, to avoid stretching the fabric.

Turn the shirt inside out and inspect the hem. Look for any loose threads, puckers, or stitches that skipped. If you see a loose thread, trim it with scissors. If a stitch skipped or the seam is uneven in one spot, you can carefully remove a few stitches with a seam ripper, smooth the fabric, and re-sew that section. Once the hem looks clean and even, wash and dry the shirt according to the care label. If the hem holds after the first wash, you have done it right.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my shirt hem is uneven after I sew it?

Uneven hems usually happen because the fold was not pressed flat before sewing or because the fold line drifted away from the presser foot edge while sewing. If the unevenness is minor (less than one-quarter inch), you can press it again with a warm iron and it may flatten out. If it is more than one-quarter inch, you may need to remove the stitches with a seam ripper, re-fold and press, and sew again.

Can I use a regular straight stitch or do I need a zigzag?

A straight stitch works fine for shirt hems, especially on cotton or cotton blends. A narrow zigzag is more forgiving because it stretches slightly as the fabric moves, which prevents puckering on lightweight fabrics. If you are new to hemming, try a narrow zigzag first; if it looks good, stick with it.

What thread color should I use?

Use thread that matches the shirt color as closely as possible. If the shirt is a solid color, match it exactly. If the shirt is a pattern or plaid, choose a thread color that blends with the dominant color. The stitches will be less visible if the thread matches, and the hem will look neater.

How do I know if my tension is right?

Sew a test line on a scrap of the same fabric, folded the same way as your hem. Look at the stitches on both sides. If they are the same length and color with no loops or puckers, your tension is correct. If the fabric puckers, loosen the tension. If thread hangs in loops on the back, tighten the tension.

Can I hem a shirt that has already been washed?

Yes, but wash and dry it first so the fabric shrinks before you measure and hem. Measure the hem length after the final wash, because the shirt may be slightly shorter after washing. This prevents the hem from being too short after the next wash.