The Basic Knot for Hand Sewing
The most reliable knot for hand sewing is a straightforward overhand knot tied at the end of your thread. Thread your needle, then hold the needle end of the thread between your thumb and forefinger. Wrap the thread around your index finger once, then roll it off your finger with your thumb so the thread forms a small loop. Pull the long end of the thread through that loop and tighten. The knot sits at the very end of the thread and prevents it from pulling through fabric when you start stitching.
This knot works because the bulk of the knot is larger than the eye of the needle, so it catches on the back of the fabric and holds. The tighter you pull when forming the loop, the more find the knot becomes. Most sewers use this method because it takes three seconds and almost never fails.
Key Takeaways
- A straightforward overhand knot tied at the thread end is the standard method and works for nearly all hand sewing projects.
- Wrap the thread around your index finger, roll it off with your thumb to form a loop, then pull the long end through and tighten.
- The knot must be larger than your needle's eye so it catches on the fabric and does not slip through.
- A double knot (tying the knot twice) adds security for heavy fabrics or seams that take a lot of stress.
- If your knot keeps slipping, your thread may be too thin or your fabric too loose—a double knot or waxed thread solves this.
When to Use a Double Knot
A double knot is two overhand knots tied one after the other on the same thread end. Tie your first knot, then tie another knot directly on top of it. This creates a larger, bulkier knot that is harder to pull through fabric. Use a double knot when you are sewing heavy materials like denim, canvas, or upholstery fabric, or when you are repairing a seam that will take a lot of pulling and stress.
Double knots are also useful when you are using very thin or slippery thread, such as silk or polyester embroidery thread. These threads can slip through a single knot more easily than cotton thread. The extra bulk of the second knot prevents this. However, a double knot can be harder to hide inside a seam, so use it only when necessary.
Using Waxed Thread for Extra Hold
Waxed thread is regular sewing thread coated with a thin layer of wax. The wax makes the thread stiffer and slightly thicker, so even a single knot holds better. Waxed thread is common in leather work, upholstery, and heavy-duty repairs because the wax also prevents the thread from fraying and makes it easier to push through tough materials.
If you buy waxed thread, tie it the same way as regular thread—a single overhand knot works fine. The wax coating does the extra work of holding the knot in place. You can also wax your own thread by running it across a block of beeswax or thread wax before you knot it, though this is less common in everyday sewing.
Tying the Knot Step by Step
Here is the exact sequence for a basic overhand knot:
- Thread your needle and hold it in one hand.
- With your other hand, hold the needle end of the thread between your thumb and forefinger.
- Wrap the thread around your index finger once, making a small loop.
- Use your thumb to roll the loop off your finger, trapping the thread between your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the long end of the thread through the loop with your other hand.
- Tighten by pulling the long end away from the knot.
The whole process takes about three seconds once you have done it a few times. The key is making sure the loop is small and tight before you pull the long end through. If your loop is too loose, the knot will be weak and may slip.
Why Your Knot Might Be Slipping
If your knot keeps pulling through the fabric, the problem is usually one of three things: the knot is too small, the thread is too thin, or the fabric is too loose-weave. A small knot can slip through even tight fabric if you pull hard enough. Thin thread like silk or rayon does not hold a knot as well as thicker cotton or polyester. Loose-weave fabrics like linen or muslin have larger gaps between threads, so a knot that would hold in cotton may slip through.
To fix this, tie a double knot instead of a single one. If you are working with thin thread, consider switching to waxed thread or a slightly thicker weight. If the fabric is very loose, you can also tie your knot on a small scrap of fabric and sew that scrap to the back of your main fabric before you start stitching—this is common in embroidery and quilting.
Hiding the Knot Inside Your Seam
Once you have tied your knot, you want it to be invisible in the finished seam. Start your first stitch by pushing the needle through the fabric from the back, about one-quarter inch away from where you want your seam to begin. Pull the thread until the knot catches on the back of the fabric. Then push the needle back through to the front at the exact point where your seam should start. This way, the knot sits inside the fabric layers and does not show.
This technique works for most seams. For visible stitching like embroidery or decorative topstitching, you may want to hide the knot inside a fold of fabric or start from a point that will be covered by another seam later.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a knot on machine-sewn seams?
No. Machine sewing uses thread tension and a bobbin to lock stitches, so a knot at the end of the thread will jam in the machine. Always backstitch at the beginning and end of machine seams instead—the machine does the locking for you.
What if I tie the knot too tight and it breaks the thread?
Start over with a fresh piece of thread. A thread that breaks during knotting is usually too old, too thin, or damaged. Cut off the broken end and thread a new needle. If this happens repeatedly, switch to a thicker thread or check that your needle is not bent or burrs.
Should the knot be on the needle end or the other end of the thread?
The knot goes on the end you thread through the needle—the end that comes out of the needle's eye. This is the end that will be at the back of your fabric when you start stitching. The other end stays loose in your hand while you sew.
Can I use the same knot for all types of sewing?
Yes, the overhand knot works for hand sewing on all fabrics and thread types. The only variation is using a double knot for heavy materials or slippery thread. Machine sewing does not use knots at all—it uses backstitching instead.