A buttonhole is a slit in fabric with reinforced edges that holds a button
Most sewing machines have a buttonhole foot and a dedicated buttonhole stitch that will sew all four sides of the opening in one motion. You mark where you want the hole, insert the button into the foot so the machine knows the size, and press the pedal. The machine stitches around the marked line, then you cut open the center with a seam ripper. The whole process takes about two minutes per buttonhole once you understand the steps.
The buttonhole foot looks different from a regular presser foot — it has a groove on the bottom and a small slot or lever where the button sits. Check your machine's manual to find the exact name (some call it a "one-step buttonhole foot" or "automatic buttonhole foot"), because the attachment method varies by brand.
Key Takeaways
- Mark your buttonhole placement with a fabric pen or chalk before you start, measuring from the edge of the garment and spacing multiple holes evenly.
- Insert the actual button you plan to use into the buttonhole foot so the machine can measure the correct size automatically.
- Sew slowly and keep tension even — the machine will stitch all four sides in one pass, and stopping mid-stitch creates uneven corners.
- Use a seam ripper to cut open the center after stitching, sliding the blade carefully between the two rows of stitches to avoid cutting the thread.
- Test the buttonhole on scrap fabric first if your machine is new to you, because tension and foot pressure vary by model.
Gather your materials and prepare the fabric
You will need the garment piece with the button marked, the button itself, thread that matches or blends with the fabric, a seam ripper, and your machine's buttonhole foot. Stabilizer — a tear-away or wash-away backing — is optional but makes a real difference on stretchy or lightweight fabrics. Pin or baste a small square of stabilizer behind the buttonhole area on the wrong side of the fabric.
Mark the buttonhole placement with a fabric pen, chalk, or tailor's pencil. Draw a line the length of your button plus about 1/8 inch — this is where the machine will center its stitching. If you are making multiple buttonholes, measure the distance from the edge of the garment to the first hole, then space the rest evenly. For a shirt front, buttonholes usually sit about 3/4 inch from the edge.
Attach the buttonhole foot and thread the machine
Raise the presser foot lever, remove your current foot, and slide the buttonhole foot onto the shank. Lower the presser foot lever to lock it in place. The exact motion depends on your machine — some feet snap on, others screw on. Consult your manual if you are unsure.
Thread the machine as you normally would, using thread that matches your fabric. Wind a bobbin and insert it. If your machine has a tension dial, leave it at the default setting for now — you can adjust it after a test buttonhole if the stitches look loose or tight.
Insert the button and position the fabric
This step is crucial because it tells the machine how large to make the buttonhole. Open the small slot or lever on the buttonhole foot and slide your actual button into it. The button should sit snugly so the machine can measure its width and length. Close the lever or slot to hold the button in place.
Place the fabric under the foot so the marked line aligns with the needle. Lower the presser foot. Some machines have a guide line etched into the foot — line up your chalk mark with that guide. If your machine has a buttonhole lever, pull it down now (this signals the machine to begin the automatic cycle).
Sew the buttonhole slowly and steadily
Set your machine to a medium speed — faster than a crawl, but slower than your normal sewing pace. Press the pedal and let the machine do the work. Do not pull the fabric or try to guide it; the machine controls the motion. You will hear the needle moving side to side as it stitches the four sides of the buttonhole box.
The entire stitch cycle takes about 30 to 45 seconds. When the machine finishes, it will stop automatically or the needle will return to the starting point. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Do not cut the thread yet — leave it attached while you open the buttonhole.
Cut open the buttonhole with a seam ripper
Lay the fabric flat on a hard surface. Slide the small blade of a seam ripper between the two rows of stitches down the center of the buttonhole. The seam ripper's rounded end should face the stitches, not the fabric. Push the blade forward slowly, letting it cut the fabric threads without catching the machine stitches on either side.
Stop about 1/8 inch before each end of the buttonhole — do not cut all the way to the corners, or the hole will tear when you use it. Once the center is open, trim the thread tails and test the button. It should slide through with a little resistance, not so tight that you strain the fabric and not so loose that it falls through.
Troubleshoot common buttonhole problems
If the stitches are bunched or looped on one side, your tension is too tight or too loose. Loosen the tension dial slightly (usually by turning it to a lower number) and test on scrap fabric. If the buttonhole is crooked, your marked line was not straight or the fabric shifted during stitching — mark more carefully next time and use a stabilizer on stretchy fabric.
If the machine skipped stitches or made gaps, the needle may be bent or dull. Replace it with a fresh needle of the correct size for your fabric. If the buttonhole is too small or too large, the button did not sit properly in the foot. Remove the button, reposition it so it is centered and snug, and try again on a new spot.
Some machines require you to manually move the buttonhole lever back to the starting position before removing the fabric. Check your manual — if you skip this step, the next buttonhole may not sew correctly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a buttonhole by hand if my machine does not have a buttonhole foot?
Yes. Mark the opening, sew a rectangle of small stitches around it using a straight stitch, then cut the center open. Finish the edges with a buttonhole stitch worked by hand or with your machine's manual buttonhole stitch setting. It takes longer but produces a functional result.
What size should the buttonhole be?
The buttonhole should be the diameter of your button plus about 1/8 inch. If your button is 3/4 inch wide, aim for a 7/8 inch buttonhole. The machine measures this automatically when you insert the button into the foot, so you do not have to calculate it yourself.
Do I need stabilizer for every buttonhole?
Stabilizer is most important on stretchy, thin, or loosely woven fabrics. Knits and jersey benefit from it because the machine stitches can pucker the fabric. On sturdy cotton or linen, it is optional. Tear-away stabilizer is easiest — just rip it away after stitching.
Why did my buttonhole come out uneven?
The most common cause is the fabric shifting under the foot during stitching. Use a stabilizer, mark your line clearly, and do not pull the fabric. Also check that the buttonhole foot is seated correctly and the button is locked firmly in the slot.
Can I use a different thread color for the buttonhole?
Yes, but it will be visible. If you want the buttonhole to blend in, match the thread to the fabric. If you want it to stand out as a design detail, use a contrasting color. Just make sure the thread weight matches your fabric — heavy thread on lightweight fabric can pucker.