Hand buttonholes are faster than you think, and you need only a needle, thread, and scissors
A buttonhole made by hand takes about ten to fifteen minutes once you know the method. You do not need a sewing machine, a buttonhole cutter, or any special tool beyond a needle with an eye large enough for your thread, sharp scissors, and thread that matches your fabric. The standard hand method is called a bound buttonhole or worked buttonhole, depending on the finish. Most home sewers use the worked buttonhole because it is simpler and holds up well on everyday garments.
The worked buttonhole is a rectangle of tight stitching that prevents the fabric from fraying when you cut the opening. You mark the buttonhole location, stitch around the rectangle in a specific pattern, then cut the opening from inside. The stitches themselves form the finished edge.
Key Takeaways
- Mark your buttonhole with a pencil or tailor's chalk in a rectangle the width of your button plus one-eighth inch, positioned where the button will sit when fastened.
- Use a split stitch or backstitch to outline the rectangle in two passes, keeping stitches close together and even on both the outline and the inside edge.
- Work a second layer of stitches called a purl or whip stitch around the inside edge to reinforce and finish the opening.
- Cut the opening from the inside of the fabric using small, sharp scissors, stopping just short of the stitched line at each end.
- Buttonholes on knit fabrics or stretchy materials need a reinforcement patch of interfacing on the underside before you begin stitching.
Mark the buttonhole in the right place and size
The buttonhole length should be the diameter of your button plus one-eighth inch. If your button is three-quarters of an inch across, your buttonhole should be seven-eighths of an inch long. This extra space lets the button pass through without strain.
Mark the buttonhole with a pencil, fabric pen, or tailor's chalk in a horizontal rectangle. The rectangle should sit where the button will rest when the garment is fastened — usually on the center front of a shirt or dress, or on a cuff. Use a ruler to keep the lines straight and parallel. Mark both the outer edge and an inner line about one-sixteenth of an inch inside, because you will stitch between these two lines.
If you are making multiple buttonholes, mark all of them before you begin stitching. Space them evenly — usually one and one-half to two inches apart on a shirt front, depending on the size of the garment.
Stitch the outline in a split stitch or backstitch
Thread your needle with thread that matches your fabric. Use a single strand if your fabric is lightweight cotton or linen; use doubled thread if your fabric is heavier or if you want a more visible finish. Knot the end.
Start at one corner of the rectangle and work a split stitch along the outer edge. A split stitch is made by bringing the needle up through the fabric, then pushing it back down through the middle of the thread you just laid. This creates a solid line of stitches that look like a tiny chain. Keep your stitches small — about one-sixteenth of an inch — and tight. Work along the top edge of the rectangle, then down the right side, across the bottom, and up the left side, returning to your starting point.
Once you have outlined the outer edge, work a second line of split stitches along the inner edge (the line you marked one-sixteenth of an inch inside the first). This inner line is where the buttonhole will open, so keep these stitches even and close together. When you finish the inner outline, bring your needle to the back of the fabric and knot off.
Add a reinforcing whip stitch around the inside edge
This step is optional on sturdy fabrics like cotton twill or denim, but it makes the buttonhole much stronger and gives it a professional finish. Thread your needle again with matching thread and knot the end.
Bring the needle up from the back of the fabric at one corner of the inner rectangle. You will now work a whip stitch (also called a purl stitch) around the inside edge. The whip stitch wraps thread around the edge of the opening to reinforce it. Bring the needle up through the fabric just outside the split stitch line, then wrap the thread around the edge and push the needle back down just inside the split stitch. Work your way around the entire inner rectangle, keeping the wraps close and even.
This reinforcing layer prevents the buttonhole from stretching or tearing when the button is fastened and unfastened repeatedly. On lightweight fabrics, this step is what keeps the buttonhole from unraveling.
Cut the opening carefully from the inside
Once your stitching is complete and find, you are ready to cut. Use small, sharp scissors — embroidery scissors or thread snips work well. Position the scissors so the blade points toward the center of the buttonhole, not toward the ends.
Cut along the inner marked line, starting from the middle of the rectangle and cutting toward one end. Stop about one-sixteenth of an inch before you reach the corner. Return to the middle and cut toward the other end, again stopping just short of the corner. This method prevents you from accidentally cutting through the stitches at the ends.
If you cut too close to the end stitches and a thread or two comes loose, do not panic. You can reinforce that corner with a few extra stitches using a needle and thread.
Reinforce buttonholes on knit and stretchy fabrics
Knits, jersey, and other stretchy materials need extra support because the fabric itself has no structure. Without reinforcement, the buttonhole will stretch out of shape and the button will pull through.
Before you mark or stitch, cut a small rectangle of interfacing — a stiff fabric sold in the notions section of fabric stores — slightly larger than your buttonhole. Fuse it to the back of the fabric using a hot iron, following the package directions. Some interfacing is fusible (it sticks with heat); others are sewn on. Fusible is faster and works well for buttonholes.
Once the interfacing is in place, mark and stitch your buttonhole as you would on woven fabric. The interfacing prevents the knit from stretching and gives your stitches something solid to anchor to.
Buttonholes on different fabric weights and types
Lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or linen lawn need stitches that are close together and a reinforcing whip stitch, because the fabric itself offers little support. Work slowly and keep your stitches small.
Medium-weight fabrics like cotton poplin, linen, and quilting cotton are the easiest to work with. Your stitches can be slightly larger, and the buttonhole will hold up well with just the split stitch outline and a whip stitch reinforcement.
Heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, and wool require sharp scissors and patience when cutting, because the fabric is thick. You may need to make several passes with your scissors to cut all the way through. Use doubled thread for stitching so the thread is strong enough to hold the thick fabric.
Stretchy fabrics always need interfacing on the back. Knits, jersey, and swimsuit fabrics will pull and distort without it. Fuse the interfacing before you mark the buttonhole.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a hand buttonhole take to make?
Once you have marked the location, a single buttonhole takes ten to fifteen minutes. The time depends on the size of the buttonhole, the weight of the fabric, and how quickly you work. Your first buttonhole will take longer as you learn the rhythm; the second and third go faster.
Can I use a buttonhole stitch instead of a split stitch?
Yes. A buttonhole stitch (also called a blanket stitch) creates a looped edge that is both decorative and functional. It takes slightly longer than a split stitch because the loops must be even and tight, but it produces a more finished look. The method is the same: outline the rectangle, then work the buttonhole stitch around the inner edge.
What if I cut too close to the stitches and a thread comes loose?
Bring a needle and thread to the back of the fabric and work a few extra stitches at that corner to reinforce it. You can also explore a tiny drop of clear fabric glue or fray check to the loose thread, but test it on a scrap first to make sure it does not stain your fabric.
Do I need to reinforce the ends of the buttonhole?
On woven fabrics, the stitches at the ends are usually enough. On knits or if you are making a very large buttonhole, you can work a small bar tack (a cluster of tight stitches) at each end for extra strength.
Can I make a buttonhole on a curved seam or armhole?
Yes, but mark it carefully so it sits flat. On a curve, the buttonhole should run parallel to the seam, not perpendicular to it. This keeps the button from pulling the seam out of shape when fastened.