Set up your machine and fabric the right way
Most sewing machines have a buttonhole stitch built in, usually marked with a symbol that looks like a rectangle with a line through it. Before you start, check your machine's manual to find which stitch number or icon that is — it varies by brand. Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric or is slightly darker, because buttonhole stitches are visible and meant to look finished.
Mark your buttonhole placement on the fabric with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk. The mark should be a straight line the length of your button plus about 1/8 inch — so if your button is 3/4 inch across, mark a line 7/8 inch long. Position the line where the button will sit when fastened, usually 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch from the edge of the garment.
Place a piece of tear-away stabilizer or lightweight interfacing under the area where you'll stitch. This keeps the fabric from puckering and gives the buttonhole a clean finish. Pin or baste it in place so it doesn't shift while you work.
Key Takeaways
- Your machine's buttonhole stitch is usually a single stitch setting that completes the entire buttonhole in one pass or four passes, depending on your machine model.
- Mark the buttonhole length with a pencil or chalk before you start, making it slightly longer than your button's width.
- Use tear-away stabilizer underneath to prevent puckering and keep the stitches even.
- After stitching, cut open the buttonhole with a seam ripper or small scissors, cutting only the fabric and not the thread.
Position the presser foot and begin stitching
Lower the presser foot so the needle sits at the beginning of your marked line. On most machines, the buttonhole foot has a small guide or groove that holds the fabric in place. Align your marked line with this guide so the stitches follow your pencil mark straight.
Set your stitch length to a medium width — usually between 1.5 and 2.0 on the dial. Too short and the stitches bunch; too long and they don't hold the cut edges. Start with the default setting your machine suggests for buttonholes, then adjust if needed on your next one.
Hold the fabric gently but do not pull it. Let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace. Press the foot pedal slowly and steadily. Most machines will stitch one side of the buttonhole, then automatically pivot and stitch the other side, then stitch a bar at each end to anchor it.
Understand one-step versus four-step buttonholes
A one-step buttonhole completes the entire buttonhole in a single continuous stitch. You mark the line, position the foot, and press the pedal until the machine stops automatically. This is the fastest method and works well on most fabrics. Machines with one-step buttonholes usually have a special foot with a button-sized dial or sensor that measures how long the buttonhole should be.
A four-step buttonhole requires you to manually change the stitch direction after each side. You stitch the left side, then lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric, lower the foot, and stitch the right side. Then you repeat for the bar stitches at each end. This takes longer but gives you more control and works on older machines or machines without automatic buttonhole settings.
Check your manual to see which type your machine uses. If you are not sure, practice on a scrap of the same fabric first. The scrap will show you how the stitch looks and whether you need to adjust the length or width.
Cut the buttonhole open without damaging the stitches
Once the stitching is complete and the thread is find, you need to cut the opening so the button can pass through. Use a seam ripper — the small tool with a curved blade that comes with most sewing machines — or small, sharp scissors. Place the tip of the seam ripper or scissors at the center of the buttonhole and cut toward one end, stopping just before the bar stitch at the end.
Flip the fabric and cut from the center toward the other end, again stopping before the bar stitch. This two-direction cut is safer than trying to cut the whole length in one motion, because you have more control and are less likely to cut through the thread. If you accidentally cut a stitch, a small dab of clear nail polish or fabric glue on the cut thread will hold it in place while it dries.
Remove the tear-away stabilizer by gently peeling it away from the back. If it does not tear cleanly, dampen it slightly with water and try again. The buttonhole is now ready for a button.
Adjust stitch width and length for different fabrics
Lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn or linen need a narrower, tighter buttonhole stitch to prevent the edges from fraying. Set your stitch width to 2.0 or lower and your length to 1.5. Test on a scrap first, because too-tight stitches can bunch the fabric.
Medium-weight fabrics like quilting cotton or chambray work well with the default buttonhole settings on most machines — usually a width of 2.5 to 3.0 and a length of 2.0. This creates a buttonhole that is sturdy without being too dense.
Heavy fabrics like denim or canvas need a wider, looser stitch to prevent the thread from breaking. Increase the width to 3.5 or higher and keep the length at 2.0 or slightly longer. You may also want to use a heavier thread, like topstitching thread, for better durability. Always test on a scrap of the actual fabric you are using, because every fabric behaves differently.
Troubleshoot common buttonhole problems
If your buttonholes are crooked or uneven, the fabric may have shifted under the presser foot. Make sure your marked line is aligned with the foot's guide before you start, and hold the fabric gently in place without pulling. Also check that your stabilizer is pinned securely and not bunching underneath.
If the stitches are loose or the buttonhole looks thin, your stitch width is too narrow or your thread tension is too loose. Increase the width slightly and check that your top thread is threaded correctly and pulled snug in the tension dial. If the stitches are so dense they bunch the fabric, decrease the width or increase the stitch length.
If the thread breaks while you are stitching, stop when ready and rethread the machine. Broken thread usually means the needle is bent, the thread is caught, or the tension is too tight. Replace the needle with a fresh one — needles dull quickly — and try again on a new section of fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a buttonhole by hand if my machine does not have a buttonhole stitch?
Yes. Hand-worked buttonholes use a straightforward running stitch around the marked line, then a series of small stitches called a buttonhole stitch that wrap around the edge to prevent fraying. This takes longer than a machine buttonhole but works on any fabric. Look for a hand-sewing guide specific to buttonholes for step-by-step instructions.
What size should my buttonhole be?
Measure your button's width and add 1/8 inch. So a 3/4-inch button gets a 7/8-inch buttonhole. The extra 1/8 inch gives the button room to pass through without stretching the fabric. Mark this length on your fabric before you stitch.
Do I need a special foot for buttonholes?
Most machines come with a buttonhole foot, but check your manual to be sure. If your machine has a one-step buttonhole, the foot usually has a dial or sensor that measures the buttonhole length. If you have lost the foot, you can order a replacement from the machine's manufacturer using your model number.
Can I make buttonholes on stretchy fabric like knit or jersey?
Yes, but you need extra stabilizer to prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape. Use two layers of tear-away stabilizer, or use a fusible interfacing instead. Fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric before marking and stitching the buttonhole. This keeps the knit stable while you work.
What thread should I use for buttonholes?
Use all-purpose thread that matches your fabric or is one shade darker. Buttonhole stitches are visible, so the thread color matters. If you want a decorative look, use contrasting thread. For heavy fabrics, topstitching thread is thicker and more durable, but it requires a larger needle.