A buttonhole is a reinforced slit that holds a button in place
Most modern sewing machines have a buttonhole stitch built in—a stitch that sews a rectangle of tight stitches around a marked slit, then you cut the opening yourself. The machine does the reinforcement; you control where it goes and how big it is. If your machine has a one-step buttonhole function, it will sew the entire buttonhole in one pass. If it has a four-step function, you'll sew each side separately. Either way, the process takes about two minutes per buttonhole once you understand the steps.
The key is marking the buttonhole length correctly before you start sewing. A buttonhole should be just slightly longer than your button's diameter—typically about 1/8 inch longer. If it's too small, the button won't slide through; if it's too large, the button will slip out during wear.
Key Takeaways
- Mark your buttonhole length on the fabric with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk before sewing, making it about 1/8 inch longer than your button's width.
- Install the buttonhole foot on your machine, thread it with thread that matches your fabric, and set the stitch to buttonhole mode in your machine's menu.
- Position the fabric so the marked line aligns with the foot's guide, then sew slowly and let the machine control the stitch width while you guide the fabric straight.
- After sewing, use a seam ripper or small scissors to carefully cut the opening between the two rows of stitches, starting from the center and working outward.
- Test the buttonhole with your actual button before moving to the next one, and adjust your marking if the fit is too tight or too loose.
Mark the buttonhole location and length before threading
Lay your garment flat on a table and decide where each buttonhole should go. Use a fabric pen (water-soluble) or tailor's chalk to draw two parallel lines on the right side of the fabric. The lines should be about 1/8 inch apart, and the length should match your button size plus 1/8 inch. For example, if your button is 3/4 inch wide, make the buttonhole 7/8 inch long.
Mark the buttonhole in the direction the button will travel—usually horizontal on a shirt front, vertical on a cuff. If you're making multiple buttonholes, space them evenly and mark all of them before you start sewing. This prevents mistakes and keeps your work consistent.
Install the buttonhole foot and thread your machine
Remove your current presser foot and attach the buttonhole foot, which comes with most machines. This foot has a small guide groove or channel that helps the machine keep the stitches even. Check your machine's manual to confirm which foot is the buttonhole foot—it often looks like a flat rectangle with a slot down the middle.
Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric. Use the same thread in both the top and bobbin. If your fabric is dark, use dark thread; if it's light, use light thread. The stitches should blend in, not stand out. Wind a full bobbin before you start, because buttonholes use more thread than regular sewing.
Set your machine to buttonhole mode and position the fabric
Open your machine's stitch menu and find the buttonhole stitch. Most machines label it with a buttonhole symbol (usually a rectangle with a line through it). Select it and check your manual for the correct stitch length and width settings—these vary by machine, but a medium length (around 0.5 to 1.0) and medium width usually work well for most fabrics.
Place your fabric under the presser foot so the marked line aligns with the guide groove in the buttonhole foot. Lower the presser foot to hold the fabric in place. If your machine has a one-step buttonhole function, the foot may have a small button or lever you press to set the buttonhole length—check your manual for this step. Position the fabric so the start of your marked line is directly under the needle.
Sew the buttonhole slowly and keep the fabric straight
Press the foot pedal slowly and let the machine do the work. The buttonhole stitch will sew down one side of the marked line, across the bottom, and back up the other side, creating a reinforced rectangle. Do not try to guide the fabric side to side—the machine controls the stitch width. Your only job is to keep the fabric moving forward in a straight line and to sew slowly enough that you can stop if something goes wrong.
If your machine uses a four-step buttonhole function, you'll sew each side separately. Sew down the left side, stop, pivot the fabric, sew across the bottom, pivot again, sew up the right side, and pivot one more time to sew across the top. Your manual will show the exact sequence. This takes longer but gives you more control if you're working with delicate or slippery fabric.
When you reach the end of the buttonhole, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Leave the threads long—do not cut them yet.
Cut the opening carefully with a seam ripper or small scissors
This is the step that makes people nervous, but it's straightforward if you work slowly. Use a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade, included with most machines) or very sharp small scissors. Place the tip of the seam ripper or scissors at the center of the buttonhole, between the two rows of stitches, and cut toward one end. Stop about 1/4 inch from the edge. Flip the garment and cut from the center toward the other end, again stopping 1/4 inch from the edge.
This two-direction approach prevents you from accidentally cutting through the reinforcing stitches at the ends of the buttonhole. If you're nervous, make a small cut first, then widen it. You can always cut more, but you cannot sew it back together.
After cutting, pull the threads to the back of the fabric and tie them off or weave them into the stitches with a needle. Trim any loose threads.
Test the fit and adjust your next buttonhole if needed
Slide your button through the finished buttonhole. It should slide through with a little resistance—snug but not tight. If the buttonhole is too small, you've learned the right length for your next one. If it's too loose, make the next buttonhole slightly shorter. This is why testing the first buttonhole before sewing all the others saves time and frustration.
Once you're confident in your measurements, repeat the process for each remaining buttonhole. Mark, sew, cut, and test. Most people find that after the second or third buttonhole, the rhythm becomes automatic.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my machine doesn't have a buttonhole stitch?
Older machines or very basic models may not have a built-in buttonhole function. In that case, you can sew a buttonhole by hand using a buttonhole stitch (a hand stitch that wraps thread around the edge of the cut), or you can take the garment to a tailor. Hand-sewn buttonholes are actually stronger than machine-made ones and are standard on high-end garments.
Can I use a different color thread to make the buttonhole stand out?
Yes, if you want the buttonhole to be decorative. Contrasting thread makes the buttonhole visible and can add visual interest to a garment. Just remember that the stitches will be permanent, so choose a color you'll like seeing every time you button the garment.
What fabric is hardest to buttonhole?
Stretchy fabrics like knits and swimsuit material are tricky because they shift under the presser foot. Stabilize them by placing a piece of tear-away stabilizer behind the buttonhole area before sewing, then tear it away after. Very thick fabrics like denim or canvas may need a heavier needle and slower sewing speed.
How do I fix a buttonhole if I cut in the wrong place?
If you cut outside the stitched area, the buttonhole will fray and fail. The only real fix is to sew a new buttonhole in a different location and either leave the bad one closed or cover it with a patch. This is why marking carefully and testing the first buttonhole before cutting the rest is so important.
Do I need to reinforce the buttonhole on the back of the fabric?
On lightweight fabrics, a small patch of interfacing or a piece of fabric glued to the back with fusible web adds strength and prevents the buttonhole from tearing. On medium to heavy fabrics, the machine stitches alone are usually enough. Check the back of the buttonhole after sewing—if you can see the fabric clearly through the stitches, add reinforcement.