A straightforward cover keeps dust and lint off your machine between projects
A sewing machine cover is a fitted fabric shell that sits over your machine when you are not using it. It protects against dust, pet hair, and accidental spills—the three things that damage machines most often. You can make one in an afternoon with basic sewing skills, fabric scraps, and a measuring tape. Most homemade covers cost between five and fifteen dollars in materials.
The cover does not need to be fancy or perfectly tailored. It just needs to fit loosely enough to slip on and off without forcing, and stay in place when you move the machine. A basic rectangular cover with elastic at the bottom works for almost any machine shape.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your machine's length, width, and height, then add two inches to each dimension to allow room for the cover to slip on easily.
- Use quilted cotton, canvas, or even a doubled-up bed sheet—any medium-weight fabric that does not stretch will work.
- A straightforward rectangular cover with elastic sewn into the bottom edge keeps the cover from sliding off when you move the machine.
- You can finish the edges with bias tape or a rolled hem, but a straightforward zigzag stitch is strong enough and takes half the time.
Measure your machine accurately before cutting fabric
Place your machine on a flat surface and measure three dimensions: the length from the front of the presser foot to the back of the machine, the width from left to right at the widest point, and the height from the table to the top of the presser foot or needle bar. Write these numbers down.
Add two inches to the length and width, and three inches to the height. These extra inches give you room to slip the cover on without stretching the fabric. If your machine has a handle or a tall presser foot, measure to the highest point and add the full three inches.
For example, if your machine is 15 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 12 inches tall, your cover fabric should be cut to 17 inches by 10 inches by 15 inches. Write down the final measurements before you buy fabric.
Choose a fabric that will not stretch or fray easily
Quilted cotton is the easiest choice because it is thick enough to block dust, does not fray much, and is forgiving if your seams are not perfect. A single layer of quilted cotton is usually enough. Canvas and heavy cotton twill also work well and cost less than quilted fabric.
Avoid thin cotton, knits, or stretchy fabrics—they will sag over time and let dust in at the edges. Do not use plastic or vinyl unless you plan to add ventilation holes, because trapped moisture can rust metal parts inside the machine.
You need enough fabric to cut one rectangle that is your final length measurement by your final height measurement, plus a second rectangle for the back. Most machines need between one and two yards of 45-inch-wide fabric. Check the yardage before you leave the store.
Cut and sew the front and back panels together
Lay your fabric on a flat surface and mark out two rectangles using your final measurements. Use a ruler and a fabric pencil or chalk to draw straight lines. Cut both rectangles with sharp fabric scissors, cutting slowly and keeping the blade flat against the table.
Place the two rectangles with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Pin three sides together—the left, right, and top. Leave the bottom edge open. Sew along the three pinned sides using a straight stitch and a one-half-inch seam allowance. A seam allowance is the space between the edge of the fabric and your stitching line.
Turn the cover right-side-out through the open bottom edge. Use a ruler or a chopstick to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Press the cover flat with an iron on a low setting if you have one, but this is not required.
Add elastic to the bottom so the cover stays in place
Fold the raw edges of the bottom opening inward by one-half inch on both the front and back panels. Pin the fold in place all the way across. Sew this fold down with a straight stitch, staying close to the fold line. This creates a channel—a tube of fabric that runs along the bottom of the cover.
Cut a piece of one-half-inch-wide elastic that is about two inches shorter than the width of your cover. Thread the elastic through the channel you just created using a safety pin attached to one end of the elastic. The safety pin slides through the channel and pulls the elastic behind it. Once the elastic is all the way through, overlap the two ends by one inch and sew them together with a short zigzag stitch.
Sew the opening of the channel closed with a straight stitch. The elastic inside will gather the bottom of the cover slightly, creating a snug fit that keeps the cover from sliding off when you move the machine.
Finish the seams to prevent fraying
If you used quilted cotton or canvas, the seams will not fray much and you can stop here. If you used regular cotton, a zigzag stitch along the seams will prevent fraying over time. Set your machine to a medium-width zigzag and sew along the three seams on the inside of the cover, staying close to the stitching line.
You can also finish the seams with bias tape, which is a thin strip of fabric folded and pressed into a binding. Bias tape looks more polished but takes longer to explore. For a first cover, the zigzag stitch is faster and works just as well.
Test the fit and adjust if needed
Slip the cover over your machine and check that it sits evenly on all sides. The bottom should rest on the table without bunching, and the top should have about one inch of clearance above the highest point of the machine. If the cover is too tight, you can carefully cut a small slit in the back and add a strip of fabric with a button or snap closure.
If the cover is too loose and slides around, you can tighten the elastic by removing a few stitches, pulling the elastic tighter, and re-sewing the ends. Make small adjustments—you only need to pull the elastic an inch or two tighter.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a pillowcase or old sheet instead of buying new fabric?
Yes. A doubled-up bed sheet or a large pillowcase works fine for a basic cover. Bed sheets are usually thinner than quilted cotton, so dust will pass through more easily, but they still block the worst of it. Sew two layers together first to add thickness, then follow the same steps.
What if my machine has a presser foot that moves up and down?
Measure to the highest point the presser foot reaches when it is raised, not when it is lowered. Add three inches to that measurement. The extra room will let the cover slip on without catching on the foot.
Do I need to add a handle to the cover?
A handle is not required, but it makes the cover easier to grab. Sew a loop of fabric or ribbon to the top center of the cover before you add the elastic. The loop should be about four inches long and sewn to the inside seam so it does not show.
Can I make a cover for a serger or overlock machine?
Yes, the same method works. Sergers are usually taller and wider than regular machines, so measure carefully and add the extra inches. The elastic at the bottom will keep the cover in place just as well.
How often should I wash the cover?
Wash it once or twice a year, or whenever you notice dust buildup. Use cool water and mild detergent, then air-dry it flat. Do not put it in the dryer—heat can damage the elastic and shrink the fabric.