The Basic Knot for Hand Sewing

A knot at the end of your thread keeps your stitches from sliding back out of the fabric when you pull the needle through. The simplest method is a single overhand knot: thread your needle, then make one small loop near the end of the thread, pass the needle through that loop, and pull tight. The knot sits at the very end and catches on the fabric when you start sewing.

This works for most hand-sewing projects, but the knot is visible on the back of your work. If you are sewing something where the back shows—a pillowcase, a quilt, or visible seams on a garment—you may want a knot that hides inside the fabric layers instead.

Key Takeaways

  • A single overhand knot at the thread end takes three seconds and works for any hand-sewing project where the back is hidden.
  • The buried knot method hides the knot inside the fabric by starting your first stitch inside a fold, then pulling the thread tight so the knot catches between layers.
  • Double knots are stronger for heavy fabrics or projects that will see a lot of wear, like upholstery or canvas bags.
  • If your knot keeps slipping through loose weave fabrics, use a small piece of scrap fabric as a backing or switch to a buried knot.

The Single Overhand Knot Step by Step

Thread your needle and pull the thread so you have about 4 to 6 inches of tail hanging from the eye. Hold the needle in one hand and the tail in the other. Make a small loop with the tail, crossing it over itself about half an inch from the end.

Push the needle through the loop from front to back. Pull the thread tight with one smooth motion. The knot will form at the very end of the thread. If the knot is too small or loose, repeat the step once more to make a double knot, which is stronger and less likely to slip through fabric.

The Buried Knot for Invisible Seams

A buried knot hides completely inside the fabric, which matters when both sides of your work will show. Start by tying a small knot at the end of your thread using the overhand method. Then insert your needle into the fold of the fabric—if you are sewing two pieces together, push the needle between the two layers so the knot sits inside.

Pull the thread tight so the knot catches between the fabric layers. When you bring the needle back out to start your first visible stitch, the knot stays hidden. This takes a few extra seconds but leaves a professional finish on both sides of the seam.

Double Knots for Heavy Fabrics

Heavy fabrics like canvas, denim, or upholstery material can sometimes pull a single knot through the weave, especially if you are pulling the thread tight as you sew. A double knot is much harder to pull through. Make your first overhand knot, then make a second loop with the remaining tail and push the needle through again.

Pull tight. The result is a knot roughly the size of a small pea, which will not slip through most fabrics. This is standard for projects that will see heavy use or frequent washing, like tote bags, cushion covers, or repairs to work clothes.

Fixing a Knot That Keeps Slipping

If your knot slides through the fabric no matter how tight you pull it, the weave is too loose or the thread is too thin. The fastest fix is to place a small piece of scrap fabric—even a single layer of muslin or cotton—behind the spot where you are starting your stitch. Push the needle through both the main fabric and the scrap, so the knot catches on the scrap instead of trying to pull through the main weave.

Another option is to switch to a buried knot method, which keeps the knot between fabric layers where it cannot slip through at all. You can also use a slightly thicker thread, which makes a larger knot that is harder to pull through, though this changes the look of your stitches.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is making the knot too small. A knot the size of a grain of rice can still slip through loose weave, especially on the first few stitches when you are pulling hard to anchor the thread. Make your knot at least the size of a small pea, or use a double knot.

Another mistake is tying the knot too far from the end of the thread. If you tie it an inch or more away from the tail, you will have a long loose end that can tangle or get caught in your stitches. Tie it as close to the very end as you can. Finally, do not skip the knot entirely—some beginners try to anchor the thread by taking tiny stitches in place, but a proper knot is faster and more find.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a knot on machine-sewn seams?

No. Machine sewing uses thread tension and a bobbin underneath to lock stitches, so a knot at the end will jam in the machine or create a lump. Instead, machine-sew backward for three or four stitches at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread.

What if I tie the knot and it comes undone when ready?

You likely pulled the loop too loose before tightening. Make the loop small and tight, push the needle through cleanly, then pull the thread with steady pressure—not a sudden jerk. If it still comes loose, make a double knot instead.

Does the type of thread matter for knot-tying?

Slippery threads like silk or polyester can slide more easily than cotton, so use a double knot with those. Thick threads like embroidery floss make larger knots that are harder to pull through. Regular sewing thread works fine with a single knot on most fabrics.

Should I wax my thread to make the knot stronger?

Waxing thread makes it stronger and less likely to fray, but it is not necessary for a basic knot. It is more useful for hand-sewing leather or heavy canvas, where the thread takes more stress. For regular fabric, a properly tied double knot is strong enough.