Most sewing machines have a built-in buttonhole stitch that does the work for you
A buttonhole is a reinforced slit in fabric that lets a button pass through. Your sewing machine can create one automatically using its buttonhole function — usually a single button or dial setting that stitches all four sides of the hole in one pass or a few straightforward steps. The exact method depends on your machine model, but the basic process is the same: mark where you want the hole, insert the presser foot, and let the machine stitch the outline.
Most machines made in the last 20 years have this feature. Older machines may require a separate buttonhole foot or a manual method, but even basic models usually offer at least one buttonhole option. The result is a neat, durable hole that won't fray or tear under the stress of regular use.
Key Takeaways
- Mark your buttonhole placement with a fabric pen or chalk before you start, measuring from the button size and the garment edge.
- Install the correct presser foot — usually labeled "buttonhole foot" or "automatic buttonhole foot" — and insert it into the machine's foot holder.
- Set your machine to buttonhole mode using the dial, button, or screen, then position the fabric under the foot and lower the presser bar.
- Let the machine stitch the complete buttonhole without stopping; most machines will pause or beep when finished.
- Cut open the buttonhole carefully with a seam ripper or small scissors, starting from the center and working toward the ends.
Mark the buttonhole before you start stitching
Measure the diameter of your button — the widest point across its face. Add about 1/8 inch to that measurement; this is the length your buttonhole should be. Use a fabric pen, chalk, or a temporary marking tool to draw a line on your fabric where the buttonhole will go. Most buttonholes sit about 1/2 inch from the edge of a garment (like a shirt front or coat), though this varies by pattern.
Mark the line in the direction the buttonhole will run — usually vertically on a shirt front or horizontally on a cuff. If you are making multiple buttonholes, mark all of them at once so they line up evenly. This takes a few extra minutes but prevents the frustration of uneven spacing.
Install the buttonhole foot and select the buttonhole setting
Open your machine's presser foot compartment and remove the current foot. Insert the buttonhole foot — it is usually wider and has a groove or channel on the bottom to guide the fabric. Consult your machine's manual if you are unsure which foot is the buttonhole foot; some machines call it an "automatic buttonhole foot" or label it with a symbol.
Lower the presser bar to lock the foot in place. Now locate the buttonhole setting on your machine. On older dial machines, this is usually a numbered position (often marked with a buttonhole symbol). On machines with buttons or a screen, look for a buttonhole icon or menu option. Select it. Some machines let you choose the buttonhole style (round ends, square ends, or keyhole) — pick the style your pattern calls for, or use the default round-end style if you are unsure.
Position the fabric and start the stitch
Place your fabric under the presser foot so the marked line sits in the center of the foot's groove. The line should run lengthwise through the foot. Lower the presser bar. On some machines, you may need to insert the button itself into a small slot on the foot so the machine knows how long to make the hole — check your manual for this step.
Press the foot pedal or the start button (depending on your machine type) and let the machine run. It will stitch down one side of the buttonhole, across one end, back up the other side, and across the other end, creating a complete rectangle of stitches around the marked line. This usually takes 10 to 30 seconds. Do not stop the machine or move the fabric — let it finish on its own. Most machines will pause, beep, or raise the presser foot automatically when done.
Cut the buttonhole open carefully
Once the stitching is complete, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. You now have a rectangle of stitches with unmarked fabric in the middle. Use a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade) or very sharp small scissors to cut open the center. Start from the middle of the line and cut toward one end, then go back to the middle and cut toward the other end. This prevents you from accidentally cutting into the stitches at the ends.
Cut slowly and carefully — you only need to cut the fabric, not the thread. If you have a keyhole-style buttonhole (wider at one end), the seam ripper makes this easier because its curve matches the rounded end. Once the hole is open, test it with your button to make sure it fits snugly without forcing.
Reinforce the buttonhole if the fabric is delicate
Lightweight fabrics like linen, cotton voile, or silk can fray around the buttonhole edges even with the machine stitching. If your fabric is delicate, explore a small amount of fray check (a clear liquid sealant) around the inside edges of the hole before cutting, or brush it on after cutting. Let it dry completely — usually 24 hours — before using the button.
Alternatively, some sewers explore a small piece of interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric before stitching the buttonhole. This reinforces the area and prevents stretching. If you choose this method, explore the interfacing before marking and stitching.
Troubleshoot uneven or skipped stitches
If your buttonhole stitches are uneven, skipped, or incomplete, the most common cause is a dull needle. Replace the needle with a fresh one — needles wear out quickly and cause tension problems. Make sure the needle is inserted correctly (most machines have a flat side that faces a specific direction) and that it is the right size for your fabric.
If the machine skips stitches only on buttonholes, check that the presser foot is fully lowered and locked. Some machines require the presser bar to be down even if the foot is in place. If the buttonhole stitches bunch up or look loose, your tension may be off — consult your manual for how to adjust it, or try a test buttonhole on scrap fabric first. If the machine will not engage the buttonhole function at all, make sure you have the correct presser foot installed and that the buttonhole setting is actually selected before you press the pedal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a buttonhole by hand if my machine does not have this feature?
Yes. Hand-worked buttonholes use a technique called blanket stitch, where you sew around the edges of a cut slit with thread looped under the needle. It takes practice and patience — usually 15 to 30 minutes per hole — but produces a strong, finished look. Many vintage or basic machines do not have buttonhole feet, so hand stitching is a common workaround.
What size needle should I use for buttonholes?
Use the same needle size you would use for regular sewing on that fabric. For most cotton and linen, a size 80/12 or 90/14 works well. For heavier fabrics like denim or canvas, go up to 100/16 or 110/18. A fresh needle is more important than the exact size — a dull needle causes more problems than a slightly wrong size.
Why does my buttonhole look crooked or off-center?
The fabric probably shifted under the presser foot while the machine was stitching. Make sure the presser bar is fully lowered and the foot is locked in place before you start. Some machines have a stabilizer plate or guide that helps keep the fabric steady — check your manual. You can also try placing a piece of tear-away stabilizer under the fabric for delicate materials.
How many buttonholes can I make before the needle needs replacing?
A fresh needle usually stays sharp for 8 to 10 buttonholes on average fabric, or 4 to 6 on heavy fabric like denim. If you notice skipped stitches or uneven tension, replace the needle even if you have not hit this limit. A dull needle damages fabric and produces poor results faster than it wears out completely.
Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a buttonhole foot?
No. The buttonhole foot has a groove or channel on the bottom that guides the fabric and keeps it centered under the needle as the machine stitches all four sides. A regular foot will not hold the fabric in the right position, and the buttonhole will come out crooked or incomplete. Always use the correct foot for the stitch you are making.