What Piping Is and Why You Make It Yourself
Piping is a narrow strip of fabric folded around a cord and sewn into seams to create a finished edge or decorative trim. You make it yourself by wrapping bias-cut fabric around cord, then sewing it down with a zipper foot. Homemade piping costs less than store-bought, lets you match your fabric exactly, and gives you control over the width and cord thickness.
The most common use is along armholes, necklines, and seams on garments and home décor items like pillows and bags. Once you understand the basic technique, you can make piping in any width or color combination your project needs.
Key Takeaways
- Bias tape (fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain) wraps around cord without puckering, and you can buy it pre-made or cut it yourself from any fabric.
- A zipper foot lets the needle run close to the cord, which is essential for sewing piping neatly and consistently.
- The three-step process is: wrap bias tape around cord, sew it with a zipper foot, then sew the piping into your seam using a regular presser foot.
- Cord thickness ranges from thin (1/8 inch) for delicate work to thick (1/4 inch) for bold statement piping, and your choice affects how much bias tape you need.
- Common mistakes include using straight-grain fabric instead of bias (which causes puckering), sewing too far from the cord, and not leaving enough seam allowance when attaching piping to your project.
Choosing Your Bias Tape and Cord
You need two materials: bias tape (fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain) and cord (the filler inside). Bias tape stretches slightly and curves without puckering, which is why straight-grain fabric does not work for piping. You can buy pre-made bias tape in cotton or polyester at any fabric store, or cut your own from any fabric you own.
For cord, use cotton piping cord, which is sold by the yard in most fabric stores. Common sizes are 1/8 inch, 3/16 inch, and 1/4 inch diameter. Thinner cord (1/8 inch) works well for garments and delicate projects; thicker cord (1/4 inch) makes a bolder statement on pillows and bags. One yard of bias tape wraps around roughly 2 to 3 yards of cord, depending on the cord thickness and how wide you cut the tape.
If you are cutting your own bias tape, cut strips 1.5 to 2 inches wide (wider strips give you more fabric to grip when sewing). Sew the strips end-to-end with a diagonal seam, then press the seam open to reduce bulk. Press the entire length of tape in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so it is ready to wrap around the cord.
Wrapping Cord with Bias Tape
Lay your bias tape flat, wrong side up. Place the cord along the fold line (the crease you pressed into the center). Fold the tape over the cord so the raw edges align on top. The cord should sit snugly inside the fold, with the raw edges of the tape facing up and ready to sew.
Attach a zipper foot to your machine — this foot has a narrow profile that lets the needle run very close to the cord. Set your machine to a straight stitch and a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm. Sew along the raw edges of the bias tape, keeping the needle as close to the cord as possible without hitting it. The goal is a seam that holds the cord firmly in place and leaves the raw edges even for the next step.
Sew slowly and keep tension even. If the cord shifts or the tape bunches, stop, adjust, and continue. Once you finish sewing the entire length, trim any loose threads and inspect the piping. The cord should not move when you tug it gently, and the seam should run parallel to the cord, not at an angle.
Attaching Piping to Your Project
Before you sew piping into a seam, plan where it will go. Piping is typically sewn into seams on the right side of the fabric so the finished edge shows. Mark your seam line with a pencil or chalk, then pin the piping along that line with the raw edges of the piping facing outward (away from the finished side of your project).
Switch back to your regular presser foot (not the zipper foot). Sew the piping to your project using the same seam allowance as your pattern calls for — usually 1/2 inch. Sew slowly and keep the piping straight as you go. At corners, clip the seam allowance of the piping (not the cord) so it turns smoothly without bunching.
Once the piping is sewn to one piece, place the second piece of fabric on top, right sides together, and sew again along the same seam line. This second seam locks the piping between the two layers. Press the seam open or to one side, depending on your pattern, and the piping will sit neatly along the edge.
Handling Curves and Corners
Curves and corners are where piping shows its advantage over flat trim. Because bias tape stretches slightly, it follows curves without puckering. On an inward curve (like an armhole), the piping naturally eases into place. On an outward curve (like a collar point), you may need to ease the piping slightly as you sew.
At a sharp corner, clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle up to (but not through) the cord. This removes bulk and lets the piping fold cleanly at the corner. Sew up to the corner, stop with the needle down, pivot, and continue sewing along the next edge. The clipped seam allowance will overlap slightly on the inside, which is normal and hidden.
For a continuous line of piping around a closed edge (like around a pillow), overlap the ends by about 1 inch. Sew the piping to the fabric, then overlap the end of the piping over the beginning, trim the excess cord so it butts end-to-end inside the tape, and sew the overlapped section down. This creates an invisible join.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most frequent error is using straight-grain fabric instead of bias tape. Straight-grain fabric does not stretch and will pucker along curves and seams. Always cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain, or buy pre-made bias tape. If you are unsure whether your tape is bias, pull it gently on the diagonal — it should stretch slightly. Straight grain will not.
Sewing too far from the cord is another common problem. If your seam is more than 1/8 inch away from the cord, the piping will look loose and unfinished. Use the zipper foot and position the needle as close as possible without hitting the cord. Practice on a scrap first if you are new to the zipper foot.
Not leaving enough seam allowance when attaching piping to your project causes the piping to slip out during wear. Use the seam allowance your pattern specifies, and backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. If you are sewing piping to a garment that will see a lot of stress (like a bag strap), use a 5/8-inch seam allowance instead of 1/2 inch for extra security.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make piping without a zipper foot?
A zipper foot is strongly recommended because it lets the needle run close to the cord, which creates neat, even piping. A regular presser foot sits too far from the cord and makes it hard to sew consistently. If you do not have a zipper foot, buy one — they cost under $10 and fit most machines.
What fabric works best for piping?
Cotton and cotton blends are easiest to work with because they hold a press and do not slip. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits or lycra unless your project specifically calls for them. Match the weight of your piping fabric to your project fabric — lightweight piping on heavy fabric looks thin, and thick piping on lightweight fabric can pucker.
How much bias tape do I need for a project?
Measure the total length of seams where piping will go, then add 2 inches for overlap and mistakes. One yard of bias tape wraps around 2 to 3 yards of cord depending on cord thickness. If your project needs 10 yards of piping, buy 4 to 5 yards of bias tape and 10 yards of cord.
Can I use piping on knit fabrics?
Yes, but use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag instead of a straight stitch. Knits move more than woven fabrics, so a flexible stitch keeps the piping from breaking under stress. Test on a scrap first to make sure the piping sits flat and does not pucker.
What do I do if my piping puckers after sewing?
Puckering usually means you used straight-grain fabric instead of bias, or you sewed too tightly. If the piping is already sewn in, you can press it gently with steam to relax the fabric. For future projects, always use bias tape and check that your thread tension is not too tight — it should be balanced so the top and bottom threads lock in the middle of the fabric.