What Piping Is and Why You Make It Yourself

Piping is a narrow strip of fabric folded around a cord and sewn into seams to create a finished edge with dimension and contrast. It appears along armholes, necklines, cushion edges, and seams on garments and home goods. You make it yourself by wrapping bias-cut fabric around cord, then feeding it through your machine as you sew a seam.

Homemade piping costs less than buying pre-made piping and lets you match your fabric exactly. A single yard of fabric yields enough piping for most projects. The technique takes practice but becomes faster once you understand the three core steps: cutting bias strips, wrapping them around cord, and stitching them into place.

Key Takeaways

  • Piping starts with bias-cut fabric strips sewn together end-to-end, then wrapped around cord and pressed flat.
  • Bias tape must be cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain so it stretches around curves without puckering.
  • A piping foot on your machine lets you sew close to the cord without crushing it, and a walking foot prevents fabric from shifting.
  • Piping is sewn into seams before the seam is closed, so the cord sits inside the finished edge.
  • Practice on scrap fabric first; tension and foot pressure take adjustment to avoid loose stitches or visible cord.

Cutting Bias Strips and Joining Them

Bias strips must run at a 45-degree angle to the fabric grain so they stretch around curves. Lay your fabric on a flat surface and fold one corner so the selvage (finished edge) aligns with the crosswise grain. The fold creates a 45-degree line. Cut along this fold, then measure and cut parallel strips the width you need—usually 1.5 to 2 inches wide depending on your cord thickness.

Join the strips end-to-end by placing two strips right sides together at a 90-degree angle, overlapping the corners slightly. Sew a diagonal seam across the overlap, then trim the excess and press the seam open. This creates one long strip without bulky knots. Press the entire joined strip flat before moving to the next step.

Wrapping Fabric Around Cord

Lay your cord (usually cotton piping cord in sizes 2mm to 5mm) along the center of the wrong side of your bias strip. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise around the cord, wrong sides together, so the raw edges align. Press gently with an iron set to medium heat—do not crush the cord.

The wrapped cord is now ready to sew into seams. At this stage, the raw edges are still exposed and will be caught in the seam when you attach the piping to your garment pieces. Store wrapped piping flat or loosely coiled until you use it; tight coils can crease the fabric.

Installing a Piping Foot and Setting Tension

A piping foot (also called a cording foot) has a groove on the underside that lets the cord ride underneath while you stitch close to it. This prevents you from sewing over the cord and crushing it. Insert the piping foot into your machine according to your manual, and thread the machine as usual.

Set your stitch length to 2.5 to 3mm and test tension on scrap fabric first. The needle should catch both layers of fabric without puckering or leaving loose loops. If the top thread is too tight, the fabric will bunch; if too loose, stitches will skip. Adjust tension in small increments and test again. A walking foot used alongside the piping foot prevents the top layer from shifting, especially on slippery fabrics.

Sewing Piping Into a Seam

Place two garment pieces right sides together. Lay the wrapped piping along the seam line with raw edges aligned to the raw edges of the fabric. The cord should sit just inside the seam allowance. Pin or baste the piping in place, then sew slowly along the seam line using the piping foot. The groove guides the cord, and your stitches should sit just to the left of the cord.

Once the piping is sewn to the first layer, place the second garment piece on top, right sides together, and sew the seam again using a regular presser foot. This second seam locks the piping between the two layers. Press the seam open or to one side depending on your pattern, and the piping will sit neatly along the finished edge with the cord visible.

Handling Corners and Curves

At corners, stop with the needle down just before the corner point. Clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle up to (but not through) the stitching line. This allows the piping to fold without bunching. Pivot the fabric, and continue sewing along the next seam line.

On curves, the bias grain of the piping naturally stretches to follow the curve. Sew slowly and let the fabric feed without forcing it. If puckering appears, you are pulling too hard; ease off and let the machine do the work. Gentle tension and a steady pace prevent waves in the finished piping.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

If the cord shows through the fabric, your bias strip was too narrow or the cord too thick. Rewrap with a wider strip or use thinner cord. If stitches are loose or skip, check your tension and needle size—a size 80/12 or 90/14 needle works for most fabrics, but heavy fabrics need a size 100/16.

If the piping puckers along the seam, the bias strip may not have been cut on true bias, or you wrapped it too tightly around the cord. Unwrap, re-press, and rewrap with less tension. If the piping twists or spirals, you are sewing at an angle to the seam line; use a seam guide or mark your seam line with chalk before sewing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular (non-bias) fabric strips for piping?

No. Regular strips cut parallel to the grain will not stretch around curves and will pucker or tear. Bias-cut fabric has give in all directions, which is essential for smooth piping on armholes, necklines, and curved seams.

What size cord should I use?

Cord size depends on the weight of your project and how bold you want the piping to look. Lightweight garments use 2mm to 3mm cord; home décor items like pillows use 4mm to 5mm. Thicker cord requires wider bias strips to wrap around it.

Do I need a special presser foot?

A piping foot makes the work much easier and produces neater results, but you can sew piping with a regular foot if you sew slowly and carefully. The piping foot's groove prevents the cord from shifting and lets you stitch consistently close to it.

How do I join piping at the ends on a circular seam?

Overlap the ends by about 1 inch, trim the cord so the ends butt together without overlapping, and fold the top end of the piping over the bottom end. Sew through all layers. This creates a smooth transition with no visible seam.

Can I make piping from printed or patterned fabric?

Yes. Patterned piping adds visual interest, but remember that bias cutting will rotate the pattern 45 degrees. Test the look on scrap fabric first to make sure the pattern effect is what you want.