Ruffles are gathered fabric sewn onto a flat edge, and you can make them on any machine with a basic straight stitch

A ruffle is straightforward a strip of fabric that has been gathered or pleated so it bunches up, then sewn onto a garment or project to add fullness and texture. You create the gathering by sewing a loose stitch through the fabric, then pulling the thread to bunch it up. Once gathered to the width you need, you sew it permanently to your project using a normal seam. The whole process takes about 15 minutes per ruffle once you understand the steps.

The most reliable method uses two parallel rows of loose stitching—one as a guide, one as a backup—so the thread doesn't break halfway through gathering. You'll need fabric for the ruffle itself, thread, a needle, and a seam ripper or small scissors. No special presser foot is required, though some machines have a gathering foot that automates part of the work.

Key Takeaways

  • Ruffles are made by sewing two loose parallel lines of stitching, then pulling the bobbin thread to gather the fabric into bunches.
  • Cut your ruffle strip 1.5 to 2 times the length of the edge you're attaching it to, because gathered fabric takes up less space than flat fabric.
  • Use the longest stitch length your machine offers (usually 4 to 5 millimeters) so the thread is easier to pull and less likely to snap.
  • Sew the two gathering rows between the seam allowance and the edge of the ruffle, so they won't show in the finished project.
  • Once gathered, pin the ruffle to your project and sew it down with a normal stitch length using a standard presser foot.

Measure and cut your ruffle strip to the right length

The ruffle strip should be cut from selvage to selvage (the finished edges of the fabric bolt) or along the grain line, depending on the look you want. A ruffle cut along the length of the grain will drape differently than one cut across the width, so test on scrap fabric first if you're unsure.

The length of the strip matters more than the width. Measure the edge where you'll attach the ruffle—a sleeve cuff, a hem, a neckline—and multiply that measurement by 1.5 to 2. If you're attaching a ruffle to a 10-inch edge, cut a strip 15 to 20 inches long. More length means more gathering and a fuller ruffle; less length means a flatter, more subtle ruffle. The width of the strip is usually 1.5 to 3 inches, depending on how deep you want the ruffle to look.

Sew two parallel rows of loose stitching to gather the fabric

Set your machine to the longest stitch length available—usually 4 to 5 millimeters. A longer stitch is easier to pull and less likely to break under tension. Do not use a backstitch at the beginning or end; you'll be pulling these threads, and a backstitch will lock them in place and make them harder to move.

Sew the first row about 1/4 inch from the raw edge of the ruffle strip, running the full length. Leave 2 to 3 inches of thread hanging loose at both ends. Sew the second row about 1/2 inch from the raw edge, parallel to the first row, again leaving thread tails. These two rows act as gathering threads; the first is your main one, and the second is a safety net in case the first breaks.

Do not trim the thread tails. You'll use them to pull the fabric and create the gathers. If the tails are too short to grip, tie a knot at the end of each one so you have something to hold.

Pull the gathering threads to bunch the fabric

Hold the ruffle strip flat on a table with one end toward you. Gently pull both thread tails at that end, sliding the fabric along the threads toward you. The fabric will bunch up like an accordion. Keep pulling until the ruffle is gathered down to the length of the edge you're attaching it to.

Distribute the gathers evenly as you pull—don't let them bunch up in one spot. If you're attaching the ruffle to a curved edge like a neckline, you can make the gathers tighter in some places and looser in others to help the ruffle sit flat. Once the ruffle is the right length, wrap the thread tails around a pin at each end to hold the gathers in place while you sew.

Pin the gathered ruffle to your project and sew it down

Place the ruffle on top of the fabric piece where it will be attached, with the raw edges aligned. The gathered side of the ruffle should face the direction you want it to go—usually toward the body of the garment or project. Pin every inch or so to keep the gathers from shifting while you sew.

Set your machine back to a normal stitch length (2 to 2.5 millimeters) and sew the ruffle down using a standard straight stitch. Sew along the line where the gathering threads are, or just inside it, so the gathering stitches are hidden in the seam allowance. Sew slowly and stop frequently to adjust the gathers if they bunch up unevenly under the presser foot.

Once the ruffle is sewn down, trim the gathering threads and press the seam flat with an iron. If you're finishing the raw edges, you can fold the seam allowance toward the project and topstitch it down, or use a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.

Troubleshoot common ruffle problems

If a gathering thread breaks while you're pulling, stop when ready and use the second thread to finish gathering. If both break, you can tie new thread to the broken ends and keep pulling, or start over with fresh gathering stitches. Breaking usually happens because the stitch length was too short or you pulled too fast.

If the gathers look uneven after sewing, you can carefully pick out the gathering stitches with a seam ripper and redistribute the fabric by hand, then sew the ruffle down again. If the ruffle puckers or the seam looks wavy, your machine may have been pulling the fabric as it sewed—try using a walking foot on your next ruffle, or reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine has that adjustment.

If the ruffle is too full or too flat, you cut the strip the wrong length. A fuller ruffle needs a longer strip; a flatter one needs a shorter strip. Keep notes on what length you used so you can adjust next time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a gathering foot instead of pulling threads?

Yes. A gathering foot is a presser foot that automatically bunches fabric as you sew, so you don't have to pull threads by hand. It works best on lightweight fabrics and produces consistent gathers. Check your machine's manual to see if one is available for your model, or buy a universal gathering foot from a fabric store. The process is faster, but you have less control over how full the ruffle looks.

What happens if I sew the gathering rows in the seam allowance and they show?

Trim them away with a seam ripper after you've sewn the ruffle down permanently. Carefully slide the seam ripper under each gathering stitch and cut it, then pull the thread out. This takes a few minutes but is worth it if the stitches are visible in the finished project.

Can I make a ruffle from knit fabric or stretchy material?

Yes, but use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch if your machine has one, because knits can ladder or run if you use a regular needle and straight stitch. Gather knit ruffles the same way as woven fabric, but pull the threads more gently to avoid breaking them.

How much fabric do I need if I'm making ruffles for an entire garment?

Measure all the edges where ruffles will go, add them together, then multiply by 1.5 to 2 to get the total length you need. Add 10 to 15 percent extra for mistakes or adjustments. If you're making multiple ruffles of different widths, cut each strip separately so you can control how full each one looks.

Do I have to use a straight stitch to attach the ruffle, or can I use a zigzag?

A straight stitch is standard and strongest, but a zigzag works if you want a decorative finish or if you're sewing on knit fabric. A zigzag also prevents fraying on the raw edges of the ruffle. Sew slowly and use the same stitch length you used to gather, so the stitches look intentional rather than accidental.