The fastest way to add ruffles is gathering fabric with a long stitch, then sewing it to your project

A ruffle is a strip of fabric gathered or pleated so it bunches up and creates a wavy edge. You make ruffles by pulling a loose thread through fabric to bunch it, then stitching that bunched strip onto a garment or project. The whole process takes about 15 to 20 minutes per ruffle once you understand the steps. Most home machines can do this without special feet or attachments—you only need thread, a needle, and fabric.

The easiest method for beginners is the gathering stitch method: you sew two parallel rows of long, loose stitches on the fabric strip, then pull the bobbin thread to bunch the fabric, and finally sew the gathered ruffle to your project with a normal stitch. This works on any machine and gives you control over how full the ruffle looks.

Key Takeaways

  • The gathering stitch method uses two rows of long stitches (length 4 to 5) sewn parallel to each other, then you pull the bobbin thread to bunch the fabric.
  • Always test your stitch length and thread tension on scrap fabric first, because loose stitches can break if your tension is too tight.
  • A ruffle strip should be cut 1.5 to 2 times the length of the edge you are attaching it to, so a 10-inch edge needs a 15- to 20-inch strip.
  • Pin the gathered ruffle to your project before sewing so the gathers stay even and do not bunch up in one spot.
  • Press your finished ruffle with an iron on low heat to set the gathers and make the edge look crisp.

Prepare your fabric strips and set your machine

Cut your ruffle fabric into a strip that is 1.5 to 2 times as long as the edge where you want to attach it. For example, if you are adding a ruffle to a 10-inch armhole, cut a strip 15 to 20 inches long. The width of the strip depends on how deep you want the ruffle to be—most ruffles are 2 to 4 inches wide, but you can make them narrower or wider.

Set your machine to a stitch length of 4 to 5 (much longer than normal sewing, which is usually 2 to 2.5). Long stitches are easier to pull and less likely to break when you gather the fabric. Use regular thread in a color that matches your fabric. Do not change your tension—leave it at the normal setting.

If your fabric is very thin or slippery (like cotton voile or rayon), reduce the stitch length to 3.5 so the thread does not slip out when you pull it. Test on a scrap piece first by sewing two rows of long stitches and pulling gently—if the thread breaks, your stitch length is too short or your tension is too tight.

Sew two parallel rows of gathering stitches

Fold your ruffle strip in half lengthwise with the right sides together, then press it flat. This creates a fold on one long edge. Open it back up—you now have a crease down the middle. You will sew your two gathering rows on either side of this crease, about 0.5 inches away from it on each side.

Sew the first row of long stitches 0.5 inches from the crease, starting at one end of the strip and sewing all the way to the other end. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end—leave the thread tails loose and at least 2 inches long. Sew the second row of long stitches 0.5 inches on the other side of the crease, again leaving long thread tails.

Now you have two parallel rows of loose stitches running the length of your strip. The space between these rows is where you will pull the threads to bunch the fabric. Leave the thread tails loose—do not trim them.

Pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric

Look at the back of your fabric strip. You will see the bobbin thread (the thread that came from underneath the machine) on each row. Gently pull one of the bobbin threads from one end of the strip. The fabric will start to bunch up and wrinkle. Keep pulling until the strip is bunched to the length you need—usually 1.5 to 2 times shorter than it was before gathering.

Do the same with the second row of bobbin threads. Pull both threads evenly so the gathers are even across the whole strip. If one side gathers more than the other, loosen that side slightly by pushing the fabric back along the thread.

Once the strip is gathered to the right length, distribute the gathers evenly by gently pushing the fabric along the threads so no section is bunched tighter than another. Wrap the loose thread tails around a pin at each end to hold the gathers in place while you sew the ruffle to your project.

Pin and sew the ruffle to your project

Place the gathered ruffle against the edge of your project with the right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). The raw edges should line up. Pin the ruffle in place every 1 to 2 inches, making sure the gathers stay even and do not bunch up in one spot. If the ruffle is longer than the edge, trim it to match.

Set your machine back to a normal stitch length (2 to 2.5) and sew the ruffle to your project using a 0.5-inch seam allowance. Sew slowly and carefully so the gathers do not shift. Remove the pins as you go. When you reach the end, backstitch to find the seam.

Once you have sewn the ruffle on, you can remove the gathering threads by gently pulling them out from the back. Press the seam with an iron on low heat to set the gathers and make the ruffle look crisp and finished.

The pleated ruffle method for a more structured look

If you want ruffles with sharp, even pleats instead of soft gathers, fold your fabric strip into accordion-like folds before sewing it on. Measure and mark your strip into sections—for example, if you want 0.5-inch pleats, mark every 0.5 inches along the length. Fold the fabric at each mark, alternating which direction you fold (fold one way, then fold the opposite way at the next mark).

Press each fold with an iron to set the pleats. Pin the pleated strip to your project and sew it on with a normal stitch length. This method takes longer because you have to fold and press each pleat by hand, but the result looks more formal and structured than gathered ruffles.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is pulling the gathering threads too hard, which breaks them. Pull slowly and gently, and if a thread breaks, you can tie a new thread to the broken end and keep pulling. Another mistake is sewing the gathering rows too close to the edge of the fabric—if you sew them less than 0.5 inches from the fold, the threads will pull through the fabric when you gather. Always sew at least 0.5 inches from the edge.

Uneven gathers happen when you do not distribute the fabric evenly along the threads before sewing. Take time to push the fabric gently along the threads so the bunches are the same size all the way across. If you sew the ruffle on without evening out the gathers first, some sections will look fuller than others.

Puckered seams happen when you sew too fast or pull the fabric as you sew. Let the machine do the work and guide the fabric gently without pulling. If your seam still puckers, your tension may be too tight—loosen it slightly and test on scrap fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make ruffles on a serger instead of a regular machine?

Yes. A serger can gather fabric faster using a gathering foot or by adjusting the differential feed, but the gathering stitch method works on a serger too. If your serger has a gathering foot, follow your manual's instructions for that foot. Otherwise, use the same two-row gathering stitch method as you would on a regular machine.

What fabric works best for ruffles?

Cotton, linen, and lightweight cotton blends gather the easiest and look the fullest. Heavier fabrics like denim or canvas do not gather as well and can look stiff. Stretchy fabrics like jersey or spandex are harder to control because they shift as you sew. Start with quilting cotton or broadcloth if you are new to ruffles.

How much fabric do I need to cut for a ruffle?

Cut your strip 1.5 to 2 times the length of the edge you are attaching it to. If you want a very full, fluffy ruffle, use 2 to 2.5 times the length. If you want a subtle ruffle with fewer gathers, use 1.5 times the length. Test on a scrap strip first if you are unsure.

Do I have to remove the gathering threads after sewing?

No, but most sewers do because the threads can show on the finished project and can catch on things. If the gathering threads are hidden inside a seam, you can leave them in. If they are visible on the outside, pull them out gently after you have sewn the ruffle on.

Can I add a ruffle to a curved edge like an armhole?

Yes, but you need to ease the ruffle around the curve. Pin the ruffle in small sections and adjust the gathers so they follow the curve smoothly. Sew slowly around curves and remove pins as you go so the fabric does not bunch up in one spot.