What Piping Is and Why You Use It

Piping is a narrow strip of fabric folded around a cord, sewn into a seam to create a finished edge that stands out from the fabric. It reinforces seams, adds structure, and gives a professional look to cushions, bags, garments, and home décor items. The cord inside the piping (usually cotton or polyester) holds the fold in place and creates that visible ridge.

Piping serves two purposes: it protects seams from fraying and adds a decorative line in a contrasting or matching color. You can buy pre-made piping by the yard at fabric stores, or make your own by cutting bias strips and wrapping them around cord. Making your own costs less and lets you match any fabric in your project.

Key Takeaways

  • Pre-made piping is the fastest option if you need a standard width; homemade piping gives you control over fabric color and cord thickness.
  • Piping is sewn into a seam before the two fabric pieces are joined, using a piping foot or zipper foot on your machine.
  • The piping foot has a groove underneath that rides over the cord, keeping the stitching straight and close to the cord.
  • Corners and curves require clipping and careful handling to keep the piping smooth and the seam flat.
  • Pressing after each step prevents puckering and makes the finished edge lie flat.

Choosing Between Pre-Made and Homemade Piping

Pre-made piping comes in standard widths (usually 1/2 inch finished) and a range of colors and patterns. It is ready to use straight from the package and works well for most projects. Buy it by the yard at fabric stores or online. The trade-off is limited color choices and a fixed width that may not suit your fabric or design.

Homemade piping takes more time but costs less and matches your fabric exactly. You cut bias strips (strips cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain), wrap them around cord, and stitch them closed. Bias strips stretch slightly, which helps piping curve smoothly around corners. If your project has curves or you want a specific color, making your own is worth the extra work.

Making Your Own Piping

Cut bias strips 1.5 to 2 inches wide, depending on the cord thickness and how much seam allowance you need. Join strips end-to-end by sewing them at a 45-degree angle, then press the seams open. Lay the cord along the center of the wrong side of the strip, fold the fabric over it, and pin.

Attach a zipper foot to your machine and stitch close to the cord, using the foot as a guide. The stitching should be tight enough to hold the cord but not so tight that it puckers the fabric. Trim the seam allowance to 1/2 inch. You now have piping ready to sew into your project.

Sewing Piping Into a Seam

Piping goes between two fabric pieces before they are sewn together. Lay one piece of fabric right-side up. Pin the piping along the edge where you want it, with the raw edges of the piping aligned with the raw edge of the fabric. The cord should face inward, toward the fabric.

Switch to a piping foot (also called a cording foot). This foot has a groove on the underside that rides over the cord, keeping your stitching straight and close to the cord without crushing it. Stitch slowly, using the groove as your guide. Stitch from the fabric side, not the piping side, so you can see the seam line clearly.

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down. Clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle up to (but not through) the stitching line. This allows the piping to turn the corner without bunching. Pivot the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching.

Joining Piping Ends and Handling Curves

When piping meets itself at the end of a seam, overlap the ends by about 1 inch. Trim the cord inside one end so it butts against the other cord without doubling up. Fold the fabric end under and stitch it down over the other end, creating a smooth transition. This takes practice but prevents a visible lump where the piping closes.

For curves, clip the seam allowance of the piping every 1/2 inch or so along the curve, cutting up to the stitching line. This lets the piping spread slightly and follow the curve without puckering. On tight curves (like the corner of a small cushion), clip more often. On gentle curves, fewer clips work fine.

Attaching the Second Fabric Piece

Once the piping is stitched to the first piece, lay the second piece right-side down on top, with raw edges aligned. Pin around the edge, making sure the piping stays in place and does not shift. Switch back to a regular presser foot (not the piping foot).

Stitch along the same line you used to attach the piping, or just slightly closer to the cord. Sewing on top of the piping stitching line is easier than trying to stitch closer. The piping will be sandwiched between the two fabric pieces. Press the seam open or to one side, depending on your project, and the piping will stand out along the finished edge.

Pressing and Finishing

Press after each major step: after making piping, after stitching it to the first fabric piece, and after attaching the second piece. Use a pressing cloth to protect the piping from shine, and press on the fabric side, not directly on the cord. This sets the stitches and prevents the seam from puckering when you wash or use the finished item.

If you are making a cushion or bag, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch after the piping is sewn in, then finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears. This prevents fraying and makes the inside of the project look neat. For garments, finish seams the same way you would any other seam in that garment.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a piping foot and a zipper foot?

A zipper foot is narrower and rides on one side of the cord, letting you stitch close to it. A piping foot has a groove that rides over the cord, centering your stitching. Both work for piping, but a piping foot is easier if your machine has one, because it keeps the stitching more consistent.

Can I use piping on stretchy fabrics like knit or spandex?

Yes, but use bias piping (homemade or pre-made) rather than straight-grain piping, because bias stretches slightly and moves with the fabric. Stitch slowly and do not pull the fabric as you sew. Stabilize the seam with a strip of tear-away stabilizer on the wrong side if the fabric is very stretchy.

What happens if my piping puckers after I sew it?

Puckering usually means the cord was too thick for the bias strip, the stitching was too tight, or you did not clip enough at curves. For future projects, use a thinner cord or wider bias strips. If it is already done, you can carefully pick out the stitches, re-stitch with less tension, and press again.

Do I need to pre-wash piping before I use it?

Pre-made piping usually does not need pre-washing if the cord is preshrunk (check the label). If you make your own piping from fabric scraps, pre-wash the fabric first so the piping does not shrink differently than your project after washing.

Can I sew piping by hand instead of machine?

Yes. Pin the piping to the first fabric piece and use a backstitch or running stitch to sew it down, staying close to the cord. Hand sewing takes longer but gives you more control on delicate fabrics or tight curves. Stitch the second piece on by hand as well, or machine-stitch it after the piping is find.