A blind hem hides the stitches inside the fold of fabric

A blind hem is a seam where the thread runs inside the fold of the fabric edge, so the stitches are invisible from the outside. On a sewing machine, you create this by folding the fabric in a specific way, using a special presser foot, and letting the machine catch just a few threads of the outer fabric as it stitches. The result looks like the hem was sewn by hand — the thread line is hidden inside the fold.

Most modern sewing machines have a blind hem stitch built in, and the foot that comes with your machine (or one you can buy separately) makes the job straightforward. The technique works best on straight hems, particularly on pants legs, skirts, and dresses where you want a professional finish without visible stitching on the outside.

Key Takeaways

  • A blind hem stitch is a built-in setting on most sewing machines, found in your stitch menu alongside straight stitch and zigzag.
  • You will need a blind hem presser foot (also called a blind stitch foot), which comes with many machines or costs $15 to $30 to buy separately.
  • The fabric must be folded so the machine catches only a thread or two of the outer layer while stitching inside the fold.
  • Blind hems work best on straight edges and require a test run on scrap fabric to get the tension and needle position right for your machine.

Check your machine's stitch menu and presser foot

Open your sewing machine's manual or look at the stitch dial or digital screen. The blind hem stitch is usually labeled "blind stitch," "blind hem," or shown as a symbol that looks like a small zigzag with a long straight line. It is a standard stitch on most machines made in the last 20 years. If you cannot find it, check the manual's stitch chart — it will show you the number or icon to select.

Next, check whether you have a blind hem presser foot. This foot has a small metal guide or blade that runs along the fold of the fabric and keeps the needle in the right position. It looks different from a standard foot — the guide sticks out to one side. If your machine came with one, it will be in your foot box. If not, you can order one online or from a fabric store for $15 to $30; search for your machine's brand and model number plus "blind hem foot."

Prepare the hem by folding the fabric correctly

Start with the pant leg inside-out. Fold the raw edge of the fabric up about half an inch and press it with an iron to crease it. Then fold the fabric again, this time folding the hem up about an inch (or whatever width you want the finished hem to be). Press this fold as well. You should now have a folded edge with the raw edge hidden inside.

Now unfold the fabric once, so you have one crease from the first half-inch fold and the hem is folded up once. This is the position you will sew in. The blind hem stitch will catch the fold, then catch a thread or two from the pant leg itself, creating the hidden seam. If you fold it completely closed, the needle will not be able to reach the outer fabric.

Attach the blind hem foot and thread the machine

Raise the presser foot lever and slide the blind hem foot onto the presser foot bar. Lower the lever to lock it in place. Thread your machine as normal — use thread that matches the fabric color. For pants, a neutral gray or navy usually blends in better than pure black or white, since the thread will show slightly even in a blind hem.

Set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. A shorter stitch (around 1.5) can pucker the fabric, while a longer stitch (3.0 or more) will be visible and less find. Check your manual for the recommended stitch length for blind hem on your specific machine — some machines work best at 2.0, others at 2.5.

Test the stitch on scrap fabric first

Cut a piece of scrap fabric the same weight as your pants (or use an old pair of pants you do not mind). Fold it the same way you folded the hem — one fold, with the raw edge hidden inside. Place it under the presser foot so the fold is on the left side of the foot and the guide blade sits right along the fold line.

Sew a few inches slowly, watching how the needle moves. The needle should swing out to the right and catch just one or two threads of the outer fabric, then swing back to stitch inside the fold. If the needle is catching too much fabric (you see a line of stitches on the outside), adjust the needle position slightly to the left. If it is missing the outer fabric entirely, move it slightly to the right. Make this adjustment using the needle position dial on your machine — check your manual for where it is.

Once the test looks right, cut the thread and remove the scrap. You are ready to sew the actual hem.

Sew the blind hem on the pant leg

Place the folded pant leg under the presser foot with the fold on the left side and the guide blade running along the fold. Lower the presser foot. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so the blade stays in contact with the fold the entire time. Do not pull the fabric — let the machine feed it. Sew all the way around the pant leg.

When you reach the end, overlap the beginning stitches by about half an inch, then backstitch and cut the thread. Remove the pant leg and unfold the hem. You should see a line of stitches hidden inside the fold, with only tiny dots of thread visible on the outside where the needle caught the outer fabric.

Press the finished hem and check the result

Lay the pant leg flat with the hem facing up. Press the hem with an iron on a medium setting, using a pressing cloth if the fabric is delicate. This flattens the stitches and helps the hem sit smoothly. Flip the pant leg over and press the outside as well.

Check the inside of the hem. The stitches should form a neat line inside the fold. Check the outside — you should see only tiny dots where the needle caught the fabric, and the hem should look smooth and professional. If you see a visible line of stitches on the outside, the needle was catching too much fabric. You can remove the stitches with a seam ripper and try again with the needle position adjusted.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?

Older machines or very basic models may not have this stitch. You can still sew a blind hem by hand using a needle and thread — it takes longer but produces the same invisible result. Alternatively, you can use a narrow zigzag stitch on your machine, though it will not be quite as invisible as a true blind hem stitch.

Can I use a blind hem stitch on curved hems?

Blind hem stitches work best on straight edges. On curves, the guide blade cannot follow the fold smoothly, and the stitch becomes uneven. For curved hems on skirts or dresses, hand-sewing a blind hem or using a narrow zigzag stitch gives better results.

Why is my blind hem puckering?

Puckering usually means the stitch length is too short or the tension is too tight. Try increasing the stitch length to 2.5 millimeters and loosening the top tension slightly. Test on scrap fabric again before sewing the actual hem. Pressing the finished hem with an iron often removes minor puckers.

Do I need to finish the raw edge before sewing the blind hem?

On woven fabrics like cotton pants, a raw edge inside the fold will not fray much. If you want a more finished look or are using a fabric that frays easily, you can trim the raw edge with pinking shears or sew a zigzag stitch along it before folding and blind hemming.

What thread should I use for a blind hem?

Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that matches your fabric color. Invisible thread (monofilament) is available but can be tricky to tension correctly on some machines. A matching thread is more forgiving and still invisible when sewn correctly inside the fold.