A blind hem hides the stitching inside the fold of fabric
A blind hem is a stitch that runs inside the fold of a turned-up hem, so the thread and stitches do not show on the outside of the garment. Most sewing machines have a blind hem stitch built in — it looks like a zigzag with long straight stitches — and the machine does the work of catching just a thread or two of the garment body while the bulk of the stitch stays hidden in the fold. The result looks like the hem was hand-sewn.
The blind hem works best on woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and wool. Knits and stretchy fabrics can work, but the hem may pucker or pull if the tension is too tight. You will need a blind hem foot (sometimes called a blind stitch foot), which is a presser foot with a small guide that keeps the fold of fabric in the right position as you sew. Most machines come with one, but if yours did not, the foot costs between $15 and $30 and is straightforward to swap on.
Key Takeaways
- A blind hem stitch is a built-in machine stitch that hides thread inside the fold of a hem so stitches do not show on the outside.
- You need a blind hem foot (a special presser foot with a guide) and the correct stitch selected on your machine to sew a blind hem.
- The fabric fold must be positioned correctly in the foot's guide, and the needle must catch only one or two threads of the garment body, not the whole hem.
- Test the stitch on a scrap of the same fabric first, because tension and stitch width changes affect how much fabric the needle catches.
Prepare the hem by folding and pressing
Before you sew, the hem must be folded and pressed flat. Fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the finished hem length you want — for example, one inch for a shirt cuff or two inches for pants — and press it with an iron. Then fold the hem up again so the fold line is about one-quarter inch below the top edge of the hem allowance. Press this second fold as well. The result is a narrow fold at the top of the hem that the blind hem foot will guide against.
If the hem is on a curved edge like the bottom of a skirt, you may need to ease the fabric slightly as you fold so it lies flat without puckering. Pin the hem in place if it does not stay folded on its own. Do not starch the fabric — starch can make the fold stiff and harder to guide under the foot.
Install the blind hem foot and select the stitch
Swap out your regular presser foot for the blind hem foot. On most machines, you press a release button or lever on the foot holder, slide the old foot out, and slide the new one in until it clicks. Check your machine's manual if you are unsure. The blind hem foot has a small metal or plastic guide that sticks up from the sole of the foot; this guide is what keeps the fold of fabric in the right spot as you sew.
Next, select the blind hem stitch on your machine. On most machines, this is a stitch that looks like a zigzag with several long straight stitches, then one or two short zigzag stitches. The exact appearance varies by brand and model. Check your manual to find the blind hem stitch number or symbol. Set the stitch length to between 2.0 and 2.5 millimeters and the width to between 1.5 and 2.0 millimeters. These are starting points; you will adjust them after you test on a scrap.
Position the fabric and test on a scrap first
Place the folded hem under the blind hem foot so the fold of fabric sits against the guide on the foot. The guide should touch the fold lightly — not pressing it flat, but guiding it. The needle should be positioned so it catches just the tiniest bit of the garment body (the fabric below the hem) as it makes the zigzag stitches. If the needle catches too much fabric, the stitch will show on the outside. If it catches nothing, the hem will not hold.
Before you sew the actual garment, test the stitch on a scrap of the same fabric folded the same way. Sew a few inches and then unfold the scrap to see where the needle caught. You should see a tiny line of thread running along the fold on the inside of the hem, with just a thread or two of the garment body caught in each zigzag. If the stitch is catching too much, move the fold slightly away from the guide or reduce the stitch width. If it is catching nothing, move the fold slightly closer to the guide or increase the width. Make small adjustments — a quarter-turn of the guide or a 0.2-millimeter change in width makes a difference.
Sew the hem with steady speed and light pressure
Once the test looks right, sew the actual hem. Use a steady, moderate speed — not too fast, or the fabric will shift under the foot. Let the machine do the work; do not pull or push the fabric. Keep light, even pressure on the fabric with your hands to guide it, but do not force it against the guide.
As you sew around curves, you may need to pause and reposition the fold slightly to keep it aligned with the guide. On very tight curves, you might need to take a few stitches, stop with the needle down, lift the foot, adjust the fabric, lower the foot, and continue. This is normal and does not hurt the seam.
When you reach the end, backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then cut the thread and remove the fabric. Unfold the hem and press it flat with an iron. The stitches should be nearly invisible on the outside of the garment.
Troubleshoot if the stitch is catching too much or too little
If the needle is catching too much fabric and the stitches show on the outside, the fold is positioned too close to the guide. Loosen the fabric slightly so the fold sits a little farther from the guide, or reduce the stitch width by 0.2 to 0.5 millimeters. You can also try reducing the stitch length slightly, which makes the zigzag stitches smaller and less likely to catch fabric.
If the needle is not catching any fabric and the hem is loose, the fold is too far from the guide. Move it closer, or increase the stitch width. Some machines also have a tension dial; if the tension is too loose, the thread will not catch the fabric properly. Increase tension slightly if moving the fold does not work.
If the fabric is puckering as you sew, the tension may be too tight, or you may be pulling the fabric as you guide it. Reduce tension by one or two numbers, and keep your hands relaxed. Puckering can also happen on knits if the stitch length is too long; try reducing it to 1.5 millimeters.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a blind hem stitch on knit fabrics?
Yes, but knits are more prone to puckering because they stretch. Use a slightly shorter stitch length (1.5 to 1.8 millimeters) and lower tension than you would on woven fabric. Some sewers prefer a ballpoint or stretch needle on knits, which slides between fibers instead of piercing them. Test on a scrap first.
What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?
Older machines or very basic models may not have a blind hem stitch built in. You can sew a blind hem by hand using a needle and thread, which takes longer but gives you full control. Alternatively, you can use a narrow zigzag stitch on your machine, though it will not look quite as invisible as a true blind hem stitch.
Do I need a special needle for blind hemming?
A standard universal needle works fine for most fabrics. If you are hemming knits, a ballpoint or stretch needle is gentler on the fabric. For heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, a size 16 or 18 needle is stronger than a size 10 or 12.
How wide should the hem allowance be?
Most blind hems work best with a hem allowance of one to two inches. Narrower hems (half an inch or less) can be harder to fold and guide under the foot. Wider hems are fine but use more fabric. The finished hem — the part that shows on the outside — is usually half an inch to one inch wide.
Can I blind hem a curved edge like the armhole of a dress?
Yes, but curves are trickier than straight edges because you have to pause frequently to reposition the fold. Tight curves (like armholes) are harder than gentle curves (like the bottom of a skirt). Start with straight hems to get the feel of the stitch, then move to curves once you are confident.