What a blind stitch does and when to use it
A blind stitch is a seam that hides the thread inside the fold of fabric, so the stitching is invisible from the outside. On a sewing machine, the needle catches just a thread or two from the fold, then dips into the body of the fabric below, creating a seam that looks like the fabric closed itself. You use it for hems on pants and skirts, closing pillows and cushions, and sealing openings on stuffed animals or quilts where you want no visible stitching.
The blind stitch works best on woven fabrics and lighter knits. It is slower than a regular straight stitch because the machine moves the needle side to side as well as forward, and you have to fold and position the fabric carefully. But the result is professional-looking and nearly invisible, which is why it remains standard for garment hems even though hand-sewing a blind stitch is faster for many sewers.
Key Takeaways
- Your sewing machine must have a blind stitch setting, usually marked with a symbol that looks like a zigzag with a vertical line, and you select it from the stitch menu.
- Fold the fabric so the wrong side faces out, press the fold hard, and position the needle so it catches only one or two threads from the fold on each stitch.
- Use a blind stitch foot if your machine came with one, because it has a guide that keeps the fold in the right position without you having to eyeball it.
- Test the stitch on scrap fabric first, because the needle position and fold depth change how visible the stitching is on the finished side.
- Sew slowly and watch the fold, not the needle, because the machine does the side-to-side motion automatically.
Check your machine's stitch options
Not all sewing machines have a blind stitch. Mechanical machines with a dial or lever for stitch selection may or may not include it. Computerized machines almost always do. Look in your manual for the stitch menu and search for a symbol that looks like a zigzag with a vertical line running through the middle, or a symbol labeled "blind" or "invisible." If you cannot find it in the manual, open the stitch menu on the machine itself and scroll through — the blind stitch is usually grouped with other utility stitches.
If your machine does not have a blind stitch, you can still close seams invisibly by hand using a needle and thread, but that is a different technique. Some machines have a "ladder stitch" or "ladder hem" option that works similarly to a blind stitch but with a different needle motion. Check your manual to see what your machine offers.
Prepare the fabric and set up the fold
Press your fabric before you start. Fold the hem or seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric and press it hard with an iron — the crease needs to be sharp and permanent. For a hem, fold once to the width you want (usually one to two inches), then fold again so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold. Press both folds. For a seam closing, fold the seam allowance inward on both sides and press.
Lay the fabric flat with the fold facing you and the body of the fabric extending to the right (if you are right-handed). The fold should be at the edge closest to you. This position lets the needle catch the fold on the left side of its motion and the fabric body on the right side.
Attach the blind stitch foot and thread the machine
If your machine came with a blind stitch foot, attach it now. This foot has a metal guide that runs along the fold and keeps it in the correct position without you having to steer. If you do not have a blind stitch foot, use a regular presser foot, but you will need to position the fold more carefully by hand as you sew.
Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric. Wind the bobbin as usual. Use the same thread color on top and bottom so that if a stitch does show, it blends in. For most projects, all-purpose polyester or cotton thread works fine. Set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters — shorter than a regular stitch but long enough that the needle has room to move side to side.
Position the needle and test on scrap fabric
Select the blind stitch from your machine's stitch menu. The needle should be set to catch only the tiniest bit of the fold — usually one or two threads. Most machines let you adjust the needle position left and right. Start with the needle positioned slightly to the left of center, so it catches the fold on the left swing and the fabric body on the right swing.
Cut a piece of scrap fabric the same weight as your project and fold it the same way. Sew a few inches and stop. Open the fold and look at the stitching. If the thread is visible on the right side, the needle is catching too much of the fold — move it further left. If the seam is pulling or puckering, the needle may be catching too little, or the fold may not be positioned correctly under the foot. Adjust and test again until the stitches are nearly invisible on the right side.
Sew the seam slowly and watch the fold
Place your project under the foot with the fold positioned in the guide (if you have a blind stitch foot) or aligned with the needle. Lower the presser foot. Set the machine to a slow speed — blind stitching is not a race, and going slowly gives you time to notice if the fold shifts out of position.
Start sewing. Watch the fold, not the needle. The machine handles the side-to-side motion automatically. Your job is to keep the fold steady and moving straight. If the fold drifts to the left or right, the needle will miss it or catch too much. Use your hands to guide the fabric gently, but do not pull — let the feed dogs move the fabric forward. Sew the entire seam at a steady, slow pace.
When you reach the end, backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then cut the thread and remove the fabric. Open the fold and inspect the seam. The stitches should be nearly invisible on the right side, with thread showing only as a thin line along the fold on the wrong side.
Troubleshoot common problems
If the stitches are visible on the right side, the needle is catching too much fabric from the fold. Move the needle position further to the left and test again. If the seam is loose or the stitches are skipping, the fold may not be positioned correctly under the foot, or the needle may be dull. Replace the needle with a fresh one and reposition the fold.
If the fabric is puckering or bunching, you may be pulling the fabric as you sew. Let the feed dogs do the work and guide only lightly with your hands. If the thread keeps breaking, the tension may be too tight. Lower the top tension slightly and test on scrap fabric. If the blind stitch foot keeps slipping off the fold, the fold may not be pressed hard enough — press it again with a hot iron and hold it in place as you start sewing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a blind stitch on knit fabric?
Yes, but use a ballpoint or stretch needle instead of a regular sharp needle, because it slides between the fibers rather than piercing them. Knits are more stretchy than wovens, so the seam may shift as you wear the garment. A blind stitch on knit works best for lightweight projects like t-shirt hems, not for heavy-use seams.
What if my machine does not have a blind stitch?
You can close seams by hand using a ladder stitch, which is invisible and takes about the same time as machine blind stitching. Thread a needle, knot the end, and slide the needle through the fold of fabric along the seam line, catching one or two threads from the fold, then one or two from the opposite fold, moving forward a quarter inch at a time. Pull gently every few stitches to close the opening.
How wide should the seam allowance be for a blind stitch?
For a hem, fold the fabric twice so the raw edge is hidden and the total fold is one to two inches wide. For closing a seam, fold the seam allowance inward on both sides by half an inch. The exact width depends on your fabric and project, but the fold itself should be at least half an inch wide so the needle has enough fabric to catch.
Do I need special thread for a blind stitch?
No. Use the same all-purpose thread you would use for regular seams. Match the thread color to your fabric so that if a stitch shows, it blends in. Some sewers use monofilament thread, which is nearly invisible, but it can be hard to remove if you make a mistake, so test it on scrap fabric first.
Why does my blind stitch look bumpy on the wrong side?
The wrong side of a blind stitch always shows more thread than the right side, because the needle dips deep into the fabric body on each stitch. This is normal and expected. If the bumps are very large or the stitches are loose, the stitch length may be too long — shorten it to 2.0 millimeters and test again.