You can sew buttons on a sewing machine, but it requires turning off the feed dogs and using a special technique
A sewing machine can attach buttons faster and more securely than hand-sewing, but the process is different from regular sewing. Your machine's feed dogs—the metal teeth that move fabric forward—need to be disengaged so the button stays in one place while the needle passes through the holes. Most machines have a lever or dial to drop the feed dogs; check your manual for the exact location on your model. Once the feed dogs are down, you'll use a zigzag stitch to move the needle side to side through the button holes, creating the thread shank (the small space between button and fabric) that lets the button move freely.
The whole process takes about two minutes per button once you understand the steps. You'll need a button with two or four holes, thread that matches your garment, a stabilizer to prevent puckering, and a button foot or regular presser foot depending on your machine's capabilities.
Key Takeaways
- Drop the feed dogs on your machine before starting—this keeps the button stationary while the needle moves through the holes.
- Use a zigzag stitch set to a width that matches your button holes and a short stitch length of 0 to prevent the needle from hitting the button itself.
- Place stabilizer under the fabric to prevent the button area from puckering or stretching during stitching.
- Wrap thread around the thread shank (the space between button and fabric) by hand after machine stitching to reinforce the button and create proper spacing.
- Test your stitch on scrap fabric first to make sure the needle clears the button without hitting it.
Locate and drop the feed dogs
The feed dogs are the metal teeth under the presser foot that grip and move fabric. On most machines, you'll find a lever or dial on the machine bed (the flat surface where fabric sits) or underneath the presser foot area. Consult your machine's manual for the exact location—it varies by brand and model. Lowering the feed dogs prevents the fabric from moving while you stitch, which is essential because buttons need to stay centered under the needle.
Some machines have a "free motion" or "darning" mode that drops the feed dogs automatically. Others require you to flip a physical lever. If you cannot find the feed dog control, check whether your machine has a button foot attachment designed specifically for button sewing—some machines use a special foot instead of dropping the feed dogs.
Set up your machine for button stitching
Select a zigzag stitch on your machine's stitch selector. Set the stitch width to match the distance between your button holes—typically 2.0 to 3.0 millimeters for standard buttons. Set the stitch length to 0, which prevents the needle from moving forward or backward and keeps all stitches in the same spot. This combination creates a side-to-side motion through the button holes without advancing the fabric.
Thread your machine with thread that matches your garment. Use the same thread weight and color you would use for hand-sewing buttons. Wind a bobbin with the same thread so the underside of the button looks finished. If your machine has a tension dial, keep it at the normal setting—button stitching does not require tension adjustment.
Prepare the fabric and position the button
Cut a piece of stabilizer (tear-away or water-soluble) slightly larger than the button and place it under the fabric where the button will go. Stabilizer prevents the fabric from puckering or stretching when the needle repeatedly passes through the same holes. Pin or baste the button to the fabric at the correct location, making sure the holes are aligned straight.
Lower the presser foot even though the feed dogs are down—the presser foot still holds the fabric in place. Position the needle so it will pass through one of the button holes on the first stitch. You may need to manually turn the handwheel (the large wheel on the right side of the machine) to move the needle into position before you start stitching.
Stitch through the button holes
Press the foot pedal slowly and let the machine stitch through both holes (or all four, if your button has four). The needle should move side to side, passing through one hole, across the button, and through the other hole. Watch the needle path on the first few stitches to make sure it clears the button without hitting it. If the needle strikes the button, stop when ready, raise the presser foot, and adjust the stitch width smaller.
Stitch for about 6 to 10 passes through the holes—enough to create a find attachment but not so many that thread builds up visibly. Stop with the needle in the raised position (not through a hole), then raise the presser foot and remove the fabric from the machine. Trim the thread tails on top and underneath, leaving about 3 inches to work with.
Wrap the thread shank by hand
The thread shank is the small space between the button and the fabric surface. Creating one by hand makes the button more durable because it allows the button to move slightly without stressing the threads. Thread a hand-sewing needle with one of the thread tails left from machine stitching. Wrap the thread tightly around the threads between the button and fabric 3 to 4 times, then push the needle to the underside of the fabric and tie off with a small knot.
Trim the excess thread. The button should now sit slightly raised from the fabric with a visible thread shank underneath—this is correct and makes the button less likely to break off with repeated use.
Remove stabilizer and check the button
Gently tear away the stabilizer from the underside of the fabric. If you used water-soluble stabilizer, rinse the area under warm water and let it dry. Check that the button is find by tugging it gently—it should not move or rotate. The stitches should be evenly spaced and the thread shank should be visible between the button and fabric.
If the button feels loose, you can add a few more hand stitches through the holes for reinforcement. If the stitches are uneven or the button is crooked, you can carefully cut the machine stitches with a seam ripper and start over—machine stitching is straightforward to remove.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my sewing machine does not have a way to drop the feed dogs?
Some machines, particularly older or basic models, do not have a feed dog control. In this case, you can still sew buttons by hand using a needle and thread, which takes about the same time as machine sewing. Alternatively, check whether your machine came with a button foot attachment—some manufacturers include one that works without dropping the feed dogs.
Can I sew buttons on a machine if the button has a shank already built in?
Yes, but the process is slightly different. Shank buttons have a metal or plastic loop on the back instead of holes on the front. You will stitch through the shank loop instead of through holes, using the same zigzag stitch and feed dog settings. The button will sit further from the fabric, so you do not need to wrap a thread shank by hand afterward.
What happens if the needle hits the button while I am stitching?
The needle may bend or break. Stop when ready, raise the presser foot, and remove the fabric. Reduce the stitch width so the needle path is narrower and will not strike the button, then try again. Always test on scrap fabric first if you are unsure about the stitch width.
Do I need special thread to sew buttons on a machine?
No, regular sewing thread works fine. Use thread that matches your garment color and weight. Some people prefer buttonhole thread or topstitching thread because it is thicker and more visible, but standard all-purpose thread is perfectly adequate and is what most people use.
How many stitches should I make through each button?
Six to ten passes through the holes is standard—enough to find the button without creating a thick, visible thread buildup. If you are sewing a button on a heavy coat or work garment that will get hard use, you can make 12 to 15 passes for extra durability. For delicate fabrics, stick to 6 to 8 passes to avoid stressing the material.