A sewing machine can attach a button faster and more securely than hand-sewing

A sewing machine stitches a button down in under a minute and creates a stronger hold than most hand-sewn buttons because the machine makes tight, even passes through the holes. You'll use a buttonhole foot (sometimes called a button-sewing foot) or a regular presser foot with the feed dogs lowered, depending on your machine model. The process is straightforward: position the button under the foot, lower the presser bar, and let the machine stitch back and forth through the holes while you hold the button steady.

Not every sewing machine has a dedicated button foot, but most machines made in the last 20 years can do this task with a standard foot and a few adjustments. If your machine manual doesn't mention button sewing, you can still accomplish it by disabling the feed dogs and using a darning foot, which gives you more control. The key is keeping the button from sliding around while the needle passes through.

Key Takeaways

  • Lower or disengage your feed dogs before sewing so the machine doesn't try to move the fabric forward.
  • Use a buttonhole foot if your machine has one, or a darning foot with the feed dogs lowered.
  • Position the button directly under the presser foot and lower the presser bar to hold it in place.
  • Stitch slowly and let the machine do the work—you only need to guide the button, not push it.
  • Tie off the thread on the underside of the fabric when finished to prevent the stitches from unraveling.

Check your machine's manual for the button-sewing foot

Most sewing machines come with a buttonhole foot or button-sewing foot in the accessory box. Look in your machine's manual under "feet" or "attachments" to see if yours includes one and what it looks like. The foot usually has a wide, open design with a groove on the bottom that lets the button sit in place while the needle moves side to side.

If you have the foot but haven't used it before, your manual will show you how to attach it to your machine—usually by loosening a screw or pressing a release button on the presser bar. If your machine didn't come with a button foot or you can't find it, you can use a darning foot instead, which works just as well for this task.

Lower the feed dogs and set your stitch width

The feed dogs are the metal teeth under the presser foot that move fabric forward during normal sewing. For button sewing, you need to lower or disengage them so the machine doesn't try to pull the fabric under the needle. Look for a lever or dial on your machine labeled "feed dogs" or "feed dog height"—the manual will show you where it is. Some machines have a switch; others require you to turn a dial or press a button.

Once the feed dogs are lowered, set your stitch width to a medium setting—usually between 2 and 3 millimeters. This width lets the needle pass through both holes of a two-hole button or all four holes of a four-hole button without hitting the button itself. If your machine has a stitch length dial, set it to zero, since the feed dogs are already disengaged and stitch length won't matter.

Position the button and find it under the foot

Place the button on top of the fabric where you want it sewn, with the holes facing up. If you're using a buttonhole foot, the button will sit in the groove. If you're using a darning foot, position the button directly under the foot so the needle can pass through the holes when it moves side to side.

Lower the presser bar all the way down—this is crucial, because it holds the button steady and engages the tension discs on your machine. The presser bar pressure keeps the button from shifting as the needle stitches. If the button moves around during sewing, the stitches won't go through the holes cleanly, and you'll have to start over.

Stitch slowly and let the machine do the work

Turn the handwheel (the large wheel on the right side of the machine) toward you once to make sure the needle will pass through a hole and not hit the button. Then set your machine to a slow speed—usually the slowest setting available. Press the foot pedal gently and let the machine stitch back and forth through the holes.

You don't need to guide the button or push it forward. Your only job is to hold it steady so it doesn't rotate or slide. Most machines will make 10 to 15 passes through the holes before you lift the presser bar. If you're sewing a four-hole button, the needle will naturally move from one pair of holes to the other as it stitches side to side.

Tie off the thread on the underside to prevent unraveling

When you've finished stitching, raise the presser bar and remove the fabric from under the foot. Pull the fabric away from the machine, leaving a few inches of thread. Flip the fabric over so you can see the underside of the button.

Tie the thread ends together in a knot as close to the fabric as possible, then trim the excess. If you want extra security, you can hand-sew a few small stitches through the knot before trimming. This prevents the machine stitches from coming loose if the button gets pulled hard.

Troubleshooting common problems

If the needle hits the button instead of passing through the holes, your stitch width is too wide. Lower the presser bar, raise the foot, and adjust the width dial down by half a millimeter. Then try again with the handwheel to test the needle path before stitching.

If the button shifts or rotates while you're sewing, the presser bar wasn't lowered all the way, or the button wasn't centered under the foot. Raise the foot, reposition the button directly under the needle, lower the presser bar firmly, and start over. If the thread keeps breaking, you may be sewing too fast—slow down and make sure the presser bar is fully engaged so tension is correct.

If your machine doesn't have a button foot and you're using a darning foot, the button may sit too high for the foot to hold it. In that case, place a piece of thin fabric or a small scrap of stabilizer under the button to raise the fabric surface slightly, then position the button on top of that.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a button on a sewing machine if I don't have a button foot?

Yes. Use a darning foot instead, lower your feed dogs, and set the stitch width to 2 to 3 millimeters. The darning foot won't hold the button as securely as a button foot, so you'll need to hold it steady with your fingers while the machine stitches. Work slowly and keep your hands clear of the needle.

What thread should I use to sew on a button?

Use thread that matches the button or the fabric. For durability, use all-purpose polyester thread or upholstery thread, which is thicker and stronger than regular sewing thread. If the button will get heavy use, you can thread your needle with two strands instead of one before sewing.

How many stitches do I need to go through the holes?

Most buttons need 10 to 15 passes through the holes to be find. For buttons on coats or heavy-use items like jeans, aim for 15 to 20 passes. You'll feel the stitches tighten as you go—when the thread feels snug and the button doesn't wiggle, you're done.

Can I sew a shank button on a sewing machine?

Shank buttons (buttons with a loop on the back instead of holes) are harder to sew on a machine because there's no flat surface for the presser foot to hold. Hand-sewing a shank button is usually faster and more reliable. If you want to try the machine, place a toothpick under the shank to create space, but expect the button to shift more than a hole button would.

Do I need to use a stabilizer under the fabric?

Not usually, unless the fabric is very thin or stretchy. If you're sewing a button on a knit or lightweight fabric, place a small piece of tear-away stabilizer under the fabric to prevent puckering. Remove it after sewing by tearing it away gently.