Machine binding is faster than hand sewing and holds up well if you use the right foot and tension

Sewing binding on a quilt by machine means stitching the folded binding strip to the front of the quilt, then folding it to the back and either machine-stitching or hand-stitching it down. The machine does the visible work on the front; the back is usually finished by hand because a machine cannot reach into that fold cleanly. You will need a walking foot (also called an even-feed foot) to keep the binding and quilt layers moving at the same speed, a needle in good condition, and thread that matches your binding or blends with your quilt.

The binding itself should be cut into strips, sewn end-to-end into one long strip, pressed in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, and attached to the quilt before you start the machine work. If you have not made binding yet, cut 2.5-inch strips from your fabric, sew them together at 45-degree angles, trim the seams to 0.25 inch, press the whole strip in half, and press the raw edges toward the center fold so the binding is four layers thick.

Key Takeaways

  • Install a walking foot on your machine before you begin, because a regular presser foot will cause the binding and quilt layers to shift out of alignment.
  • Use a 0.25-inch seam allowance when stitching binding to the front of the quilt, and backstitch at the corners to lock the stitches.
  • Stop stitching 0.25 inch before each corner, fold the binding at a 45-degree angle, then fold it back along the next edge to create a mitered corner.
  • Fold the binding to the back of the quilt and hand-stitch it down with a ladder stitch or whip stitch using thread that matches the binding.
  • Test your tension on a scrap of binding and quilt layers before you start on the actual quilt.

Prepare your machine and thread

Install the walking foot by removing your regular presser foot, sliding the walking foot onto the presser bar, and tightening the set screw. The walking foot has feed dogs on the underside that move in sync with the machine's feed dogs, so all the layers move together without puckering or shifting. If your machine does not accept a walking foot (some older or very compact machines do not), use a regular presser foot but reduce your speed and hold light tension on the quilt as you feed it.

Thread your machine with thread that matches the binding or is close enough to blend in. If you are using a variegated or multicolored binding, a neutral gray or tan often disappears into the pattern better than white or black. Wind a bobbin with the same thread. Set your stitch length to 2.5 to 3 millimeters—long enough to be find but short enough that the stitches do not look loose. Test the tension on a scrap of binding folded around two layers of quilt fabric. The top and bottom threads should lock in the middle of the fabric, not pull to one side.

Attach binding to the front of the quilt

Position the binding on the front of the quilt with the raw edges of the binding aligned with the raw edges of the quilt. Start in the middle of one side, not at a corner. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching with a 0.25-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the start to lock the thread. Sew along the edge, keeping the raw edges even and the foot flat against the quilt.

When you reach a corner, stop stitching 0.25 inch before the corner point. Backstitch to lock the stitches, then lift the presser foot and needle. Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle away from the quilt, then fold it back down along the next edge so the fold sits at the corner and the binding lies flat along the new edge. Lower the foot and resume stitching from the corner. Repeat this fold at each corner.

When you reach the starting point, overlap the binding ends by about 1 inch and trim the excess. Open the fold of the binding, sew the two ends together at a 45-degree angle, trim the seam to 0.25 inch, and press it open. Fold the binding back in half and finish stitching it to the quilt.

Fold and pin the binding to the back

Fold the binding to the back of the quilt so the fold sits just past the line of stitching you just made. The binding should cover the stitching line completely. Pin the binding in place every 4 to 6 inches, working around the entire quilt. At the corners, fold the binding into a mitered corner on the back to match the front—fold one edge, then fold the adjacent edge over it so the corner sits flat.

Check the front of the quilt to make sure the binding is even and the stitching line is covered. If the binding is too narrow or too wide, you may need to adjust how far you fold it, but this is usually a problem with how the binding was cut or pressed, not with the machine stitching. Once the pins are in place, you are ready to hand-stitch the back.

Hand-stitch the binding down on the back

Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread that matches the binding. Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) to close the fold. Bring the needle up through the fold of the binding, then insert it directly across into the quilt fabric just below the fold. Slide the needle through the quilt about 0.25 inch, then bring it back up through the fold. Repeat this motion all the way around the quilt. The stitches will be hidden inside the fold and will not show on the front.

At the corners, stitch all the way into the corner point so the fold sits flat. If the corner puckers, you may have folded the binding too tightly; loosen the fold slightly and re-stitch. Knot the thread on the back when you reach the starting point, and trim the excess thread.

Troubleshoot common binding problems

If the binding puckers or wrinkles while you are stitching, the walking foot may not be installed correctly, or the quilt layers may be bunched under the foot. Stop, lift the foot, smooth the layers, and resume. If the stitching line is wavy, you may be pulling the quilt too hard as you feed it; let the walking foot do the work and guide gently with your hands.

If the binding is too loose on the back and does not cover the machine stitching, the binding may be too narrow (cut strips should be 2.5 inches) or you may have folded it too far toward the front. If the binding is too tight and puckers the back, you folded it too far toward the back; adjust the fold slightly forward. If the corners do not lie flat, check that you folded the binding at exactly 45 degrees and that the fold sits at the corner point, not offset to one side.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I machine-stitch the binding on the back instead of hand-stitching?

Yes, but it is more difficult. You would need to stitch in the ditch (the groove between the binding and the quilt) from the back, which requires careful positioning and a walking foot. Most quilters hand-stitch the back because it is faster and the stitches are hidden. If you want to machine-stitch, practice on a small project first.

What if my binding is too wide or too narrow after I sew it on?

If it is too narrow and does not cover the stitching, you will need to remove the binding and start over with wider strips. If it is too wide, you can fold it slightly more toward the front, but this is usually a sign the strips were cut too wide. For future quilts, cut 2.5-inch strips and press them in half with the raw edges folded toward the center.

Do I have to use a walking foot?

A walking foot makes the job much easier and prevents shifting, but if your machine does not have one, you can use a regular presser foot. Sew slowly, hold light tension on the quilt, and be prepared for the layers to shift slightly. Some quilters use a spray starch on the binding to make it stiffer and easier to control.

How do I sew the binding ends together at the corner?

Open the fold of both binding ends so they are flat. Lay them perpendicular to each other with right sides together. Draw a diagonal line from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner of the overlap. Sew along that line, trim the seam to 0.25 inch, and press it open. Fold the binding back in half and continue stitching.

What thread should I use for the back stitching?

Use thread that matches the binding so the stitches disappear into the fold. If the binding is a busy print, a neutral gray or tan works well. If you are using a variegated binding, match the dominant color or use a thread that blends with the quilt back instead.