Sewing ruffles starts with gathering fabric into tight folds, then stitching that gathered edge to your garment

A ruffle is straightforward a strip of fabric that has been bunched up along one edge so it creates a wavy, full appearance. The bunching happens through a technique called gathering, which you create by pulling on thread that runs through the fabric. Once your fabric is gathered to the width you need, you stitch it onto your garment using a straight seam. The whole process takes about 15 to 20 minutes per ruffle, depending on how long the strip is and how full you want it to look.

The basic steps are: cut your fabric strip, run gathering stitches along one edge, pull the thread to bunch the fabric, pin the gathered ruffle to your garment, and sew it down with a regular seam. Your sewing machine does all the work—you are just controlling the thread and fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your ruffle strip two to three times longer than the edge where it will be sewn, because gathering shrinks the length significantly.
  • Use a long stitch length (3.5 to 4.0 mm) for gathering stitches so the thread is easier to pull and less likely to break.
  • Sew two parallel gathering lines about 1/4 inch apart within your seam allowance, then pull both threads at once to gather evenly.
  • Pin the gathered ruffle to your garment with the gathered edge facing inward, then sew over it with a regular seam to find it permanently.

Cut your ruffle strip to the right length and width

Measure the edge of your garment where the ruffle will attach. If that edge is 20 inches long, cut your ruffle strip 40 to 60 inches long—the extra length is what creates the fullness when you gather it. A ruffle that is 40 inches gathered down to 20 inches will look moderately full; 60 inches gathered to 20 inches will look very full and bouncy.

The width of your strip depends on how deep you want the ruffle to be. A 2-inch-wide strip creates a small, delicate ruffle. A 4-inch strip makes a more dramatic one. Add 1/2 inch to your desired finished width to account for seam allowances—so if you want a 2-inch ruffle, cut a 2.5-inch-wide strip. You can cut the strip from the same fabric as your garment or from a contrasting fabric for a decorative effect.

Set up your machine for gathering stitches

Thread your machine with regular thread in a color that matches your fabric. Set the stitch length to 3.5 or 4.0 mm—this is much longer than a normal seam stitch (which is usually 2.5 mm). The longer stitch makes the thread easier to pull when you gather, and it is less likely to break under tension. Use a regular straight stitch.

Do not use the gathering foot or any special presser foot yet. A regular presser foot works fine for the gathering stitches. You will switch to a regular foot for the final seam anyway.

Sew two parallel gathering lines in your seam allowance

Lay your ruffle strip flat with the wrong side facing up. You are going to sew two lines of stitching, both running along the length of the strip, parallel to each other. These stitches will be hidden inside the seam when you attach the ruffle to your garment, so they go in the seam allowance.

Sew your first line 1/4 inch from the edge of the strip. Backstitch at the start and end, but leave the thread tails long—about 4 to 6 inches. Sew your second line 1/4 inch away from the first line, also leaving long thread tails. Both lines should run the full length of your strip. The two lines of thread are what you will pull to create the gathering, so having two lines gives you more control and more even results than pulling a single thread.

Pull the threads to gather the fabric

Look at one end of your strip. You will see four thread tails sticking out—two from the first gathering line and two from the second. Gently pull on both bobbin threads (the ones on the underside) at the same time. As you pull, the fabric will bunch up and slide along the threads toward you. Keep pulling until your ruffle strip is gathered down to the length you need.

Pull evenly so the gathers are roughly the same size all the way across. If one side gathers faster than the other, pause and adjust by pushing fabric along the threads with your fingers. Once the ruffle is the right length, wrap the thread tails around a pin at each end to hold the gathers in place. Do not cut the threads yet—you may need to adjust the gathers as you pin the ruffle to your garment.

Pin the gathered ruffle to your garment

Lay your garment flat with the right side facing up. Position the gathered ruffle on top of it, with the gathered edge aligned to the seam line where you want the ruffle to attach. The ruffle should be facing inward—meaning the body of the ruffle (the part with all the folds) points toward the center of the garment, and only the gathered edge is at the seam line. This way, when you sew and flip it, the ruffle will face outward.

Pin every inch or so along the gathered edge, pushing the pins through both the ruffle and the garment. Adjust the gathers as you go if they bunch up unevenly. Once the ruffle is pinned all the way across, you can cut off the gathering thread tails.

Sew the ruffle to your garment with a regular seam

Set your machine back to a normal stitch length of 2.5 mm. Sew along the seam line where you pinned the ruffle, using a straight stitch. Sew slowly and remove pins as you approach them—do not sew over pins. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the seam.

Sew right over the gathering stitches you made earlier. Those stitches will be hidden inside the seam, so they do not need to come out. If you want extra strength, you can sew a second line 1/8 inch away from the first seam, but this is optional for most projects.

Once you finish sewing, press the seam with an iron to flatten it slightly. The ruffle will still have all its fullness and folds—the iron just sets the seam in place. Trim any loose thread ends with scissors.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is cutting the ruffle strip too short. If you only cut it 1.5 times the length of the edge, the gathered ruffle will look thin and flat instead of full. Aim for at least 2 times the length, and 3 times if you want a very dramatic effect.

Another mistake is using a normal stitch length (2.5 mm) for the gathering stitches. Short stitches are hard to pull and often break before the fabric gathers. Stick to 3.5 to 4.0 mm for gathering only.

Pulling only one gathering thread instead of two can cause uneven gathers that bunch up in spots. Always sew two parallel lines and pull both threads at once.

Finally, do not sew the gathering stitches in the seam allowance. If you sew them on the body of the ruffle where they will be visible, they will show on the finished garment. Keep them 1/4 inch from the edge so they end up hidden inside the seam.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a gathering foot instead of sewing gathering stitches?

Yes. A gathering foot attaches to your machine and automatically bunches fabric as you sew, so you skip the step of pulling threads. It is faster if you are making many ruffles, but it takes practice to get even gathers. For your first ruffle, the thread-pulling method gives you more control and is easier to fix if something goes wrong.

What thread should I use for gathering stitches?

Use regular all-purpose thread in any color—it will be hidden inside the seam. Some people use a heavier thread or even fishing line for gathering because it is less likely to break when you pull, but regular thread works fine if you use the long stitch length and pull gently.

How do I attach a ruffle to a curved edge, like an armhole?

Gather the ruffle strip the same way, but cut it longer than you would for a straight edge because curves take up more length. Pin it carefully around the curve, easing the gathers to fit smoothly. Sew slowly around the curve and backstitch frequently to prevent puckering.

Can I make a double ruffle with two layers?

Yes. Cut two ruffle strips and stack them together, then sew the gathering stitches through both layers at once. Gather and attach them as one unit. The two layers create a fuller, more dramatic effect than a single ruffle.

What happens if my gathering thread breaks while I am pulling?

Stop pulling when ready and tie off the thread ends so the gathers you have created do not come loose. You can either start over with new gathering stitches, or carefully pull the remaining thread on the other gathering line to finish gathering what you have. If you sewed two gathering lines, losing one thread is not a disaster.