Threading the machine is the first step, and it must be done with the presser foot up

Before you sew a single stitch, your machine needs thread in the needle and bobbin. The presser foot—the metal piece that holds fabric down—must be raised before you thread, because raising it opens the tension discs that grip the thread. If the foot is down, the thread will not sit properly in those discs, and your stitches will be loose or skip.

Start by raising the presser foot lever (usually on the back right of the machine). Then follow the thread path marked on your machine's body—most machines have a diagram printed or embossed showing where thread goes. Insert thread from the spool into the first guide, then down through the tension assembly, then through the take-up lever (a small hook that moves up and down), then down through the needle clamp and into the needle itself. The needle has an eye (the hole) and a groove on one side; thread goes in from the groove side and comes out the front.

For the bobbin, wind thread onto the bobbin case using the bobbin winder on top of the machine, then insert the wound bobbin into the bobbin case below the needle. Pull the top thread gently while turning the handwheel toward you one full rotation—this catches the bobbin thread and brings a loop to the surface. Pull both threads to the side and back, away from the needle.

Key Takeaways

  • Raise the presser foot before threading so the tension discs open and accept thread properly.
  • Follow the thread path marked on your machine's body, then through the needle from the groove side.
  • Wind the bobbin on the machine's winder, insert it into the case below the needle, and bring the bobbin thread to the surface by turning the handwheel one full rotation.
  • Test your tension on scrap fabric before sewing a project, because uneven stitches usually mean tension needs adjustment.
  • Start with a straight stitch on cotton fabric and keep your hands relaxed—the machine feeds the fabric, not your hands.

Adjusting tension so stitches look even on both sides

Tension controls how tightly the top and bobbin threads lock together in the middle of the fabric. If the top thread is too tight, bobbin thread shows on top. If the top thread is too loose, bobbin thread shows on the bottom. Most machines have a tension dial on the front, numbered 0 to 9, with 4 or 5 as the default starting point for medium-weight cotton.

Sew a test line on scrap fabric using the same thread and fabric weight as your project. Look at both sides. If you see bobbin thread on top, turn the dial to a higher number (tighter). If you see bobbin thread on the bottom, turn the dial to a lower number (looser). Make one small adjustment at a time—moving from 4 to 5 is enough—and test again. Once both sides look balanced, you are ready to sew your project.

Tension rarely needs adjustment once set for a particular thread weight, so write down the number that works for your cotton, your polyester, and your heavier fabrics. Different thread types and fabric weights may need different settings, but you will not need to adjust it every time you sew.

Positioning fabric and using the presser foot correctly

Lower the presser foot before you start sewing—this closes the tension discs and holds the fabric steady. Place your fabric under the needle with the needle positioned about one-quarter inch from the edge where you want the seam to start. Most machines have a line marked on the throat plate (the metal plate around the needle) showing the quarter-inch seam allowance, so use that as a guide.

Hold the fabric gently with both hands, one on each side of the needle, but do not pull or push. The machine's feed dogs (the metal teeth below the presser foot) move the fabric forward automatically. Your job is to guide it straight, not to force it. Beginners often pull the fabric toward them or push it away, which causes uneven stitches or broken needles. Keep your hands relaxed and let the machine do the work.

When you reach the end of a seam, stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot, and pull the fabric straight back and to the left. Leave a few inches of thread attached to the needle—do not cut it short. These thread tails are used to tie off the seam or to start the next seam, and they prevent stitches from unraveling.

Choosing stitch length and starting with straight stitch

Stitch length is measured in millimeters and controls how far the fabric moves forward with each stitch. Most machines have a dial or digital display showing lengths from 0 to 5 mm. A length of 2.5 mm is standard for medium-weight cotton and works for most everyday sewing. Shorter stitches (1.5 to 2 mm) are stronger and better for seams that take stress, like armholes or crotch seams. Longer stitches (3 to 4 mm) are used for basting (temporary stitching) or for heavier fabrics where you want the seam to move slightly.

Start with the straight stitch, which is the default on every machine. It is a straightforward back-and-forth line and is the foundation for all other sewing. Once you can sew a straight line without wavering, you can move to zigzag stitch (which prevents fabric edges from fraying), stretch stitch (for elastic fabrics), or decorative stitches. But straight stitch is where you learn control, so do not skip it.

Set your stitch length to 2.5 mm, lower the presser foot, and sew a line on scrap fabric. If the line is straight and even, your tension is correct and you are ready to start a project. If the line wavers or stitches are uneven, check that the presser foot is down and that you are not pulling the fabric.

Securing seams at the start and end with backstitching

A seam that starts or ends without being locked will unravel when the fabric is washed or worn. Most machines have a reverse button or lever that makes the needle go backward instead of forward. To find the start of a seam, sew forward two or three stitches, then press the reverse button and sew backward over those same stitches. Then release the reverse button and sew forward normally. This creates a knot that holds the thread in place.

At the end of a seam, sew forward to the edge of the fabric, then press the reverse button and sew backward two or three stitches. Then release the reverse button and sew forward to the edge again. This double-locks the seam. Some sewers prefer to tie off threads by hand instead, which is also fine—pull both thread tails to the back of the fabric and tie them in a knot close to the fabric surface, then trim the tails.

Backstitching takes practice to do smoothly, so do not worry if your first attempts look clumsy. The important thing is that the seam is locked. As you sew more, backstitching becomes automatic and takes only a second.

Removing fabric and trimming threads safely

When a seam is finished and backstitched, raise the presser foot and pull the fabric straight back and to the left, away from the needle. The fabric will slide out from under the presser foot. Leave the thread tails attached to the needle—do not cut them yet. If you cut them too short, they will pull out of the needle when you remove the fabric, and you will have to rethread.

Once the fabric is clear of the needle, you can trim the thread tails. Use small scissors and cut close to the fabric, leaving about one-quarter inch of thread attached. This short tail is enough to hold the knot but short enough not to get in the way of the next seam. If you are sewing multiple seams in a row, you can leave longer tails and use them to start the next seam without rethreading.

Never pull thread tails hard or jerk the fabric—this can bend the needle or break it. Always raise the presser foot before removing fabric, and always let the machine come to a complete stop before reaching near the needle. A moving needle can cause serious injury.

Troubleshooting common problems when you start

Skipped stitches (places where the needle misses the thread and leaves a gap) usually mean the needle is bent, the thread is not seated properly in the tension discs, or the needle is inserted backward. Raise the presser foot, rethread completely, and check that the needle is straight. If the needle is bent, replace it—a bent needle will skip no matter how many times you rethread.

Broken thread happens when tension is too tight, the needle is hitting the presser foot or throat plate, or the thread is old and brittle. Loosen the tension slightly, check that the needle is not bent, and try new thread. If thread keeps breaking, the needle may be inserted wrong—remove it, reinsert it with the flat side facing the correct direction (check your manual), and try again.

Bunched thread on the bottom of the fabric usually means the bobbin is wound incorrectly or inserted upside down. Rewind the bobbin using the machine's winder, making sure thread is wound evenly and tightly, then reinsert it into the case. If the problem continues, the bobbin case itself may be damaged and need replacement.

Uneven stitches or wavy seams usually mean you are pulling the fabric instead of letting the feed dogs move it. Relax your hands and trust the machine. It takes a few seams to develop the feel, but once you do, your stitches will be straight and even.

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I practice on before sewing a real project?

Start with scrap cotton fabric—old sheets or fabric scraps work fine. Sew straight lines, curves, and corners on scrap until you feel comfortable guiding the fabric without pulling. Once you can sew a straight seam without wavering, you are ready for a straightforward project like a pillowcase or a tote bag.

How do I know if my needle is inserted correctly?

Most needles have a flat side and a rounded side. The flat side faces a specific direction depending on your machine—check your manual or the diagram on the machine itself. Insert the needle all the way up into the needle clamp, tighten the clamp screw, and make sure the needle does not wobble. A loose needle will skip stitches or break.

Can I use any thread on any machine?

Most machines use standard sewing thread in sizes 40 or 50 weight, which work on cotton, linen, and blends. Heavier threads like topstitching thread or buttonhole thread require a larger needle and sometimes a different needle position. Check your manual for what thread weights your machine handles, and start with standard all-purpose thread until you are comfortable.

What is the difference between the presser foot being up and down?

When the foot is up, the tension discs are open and thread can pass through them. When the foot is down, the discs close and grip the thread, controlling how tightly it is pulled. Always raise the foot before threading and before removing fabric. Always lower it before sewing.

Why does my thread keep breaking?

Thread breaks when tension is too tight, the needle is bent or inserted wrong, the thread is old or low-quality, or the needle is hitting something. Loosen the tension dial by one number, replace the needle with a new one, and use fresh thread. If breaking continues, the needle may be inserted backward—remove it and reinsert it with the flat side facing the correct direction for your machine.