The basic finish knot: loop and pull

A sewing knot secures your thread at the end of a seam so stitches do not unravel. The simplest method is a loop knot: bring your needle up through the fabric one last time, then loop the thread around the needle shaft, pull the needle through the loop, and tighten. This knot sits right at the fabric surface and holds reliably for most hand sewing.

To make it, take your final stitch as normal. Before you pull the needle all the way through, wrap the thread around the needle shaft once, close to the fabric. Then pull the needle through both the fabric and the loop you just made. The knot forms automatically as you tighten. Practice on scrap fabric first—the motion becomes natural after a few tries.

Key Takeaways

  • A loop knot is the fastest finish: wrap thread around the needle, pull through, and tighten in one motion.
  • A double knot (two loops instead of one) holds longer in seams that will see stress or washing.
  • Burying the knot inside the seam hides it and protects it from snagging or wear.
  • Trim thread close to the knot to prevent it from catching on fabric or coming loose over time.

Making a stronger double knot

If your seam will be washed, worn, or stressed—a bag strap, a quilt edge, or a child's garment—a double knot holds better than a single one. Make the first loop knot as described above, but do not trim the thread yet. Instead, bring the needle back up through the fabric very close to where the knot sits, wrap the thread around the needle again, and pull through a second time.

The second knot locks the first one in place. This method takes only a few extra seconds and significantly reduces the chance of stitches coming loose after washing or heavy use. Many quilters and bag makers use double knots as standard practice for this reason.

Burying the knot inside the seam

For a finished look with no visible knot, you can hide it inside the seam allowance. After your final stitch, bring the needle up through the seam allowance (the fabric between the two pieces you are joining) rather than through the outer fabric. Make your loop knot there, where it will be hidden between the layers.

This technique works best on seams where the allowance will not be trimmed away—a pillowcase, a lined pocket, or a binding edge. If you are sewing a seam that will be graded (the allowances trimmed to different widths) or topstitched, bury the knot in the wider allowance so it does not get cut off. The knot stays protected from wear and does not show on the finished piece.

Trimming the thread without unraveling

Once your knot is tied, trim the thread tail close to the knot—about one-eighth inch away. If you cut too far from the knot, the tail can slip back through and unravel your stitches. If you leave too much thread, it catches on other fabric or snags during wear.

Use sharp scissors or thread snips and cut at a slight angle rather than straight across. An angled cut is less likely to fray and looks neater. For delicate fabrics like silk or linen, trim even closer, since longer tails are more visible and more likely to work loose.

Securing knots in stretchy or slippery fabric

Knits, jersey, and slippery fabrics like silk charmeuse can be tricky because the knot sometimes slides through the weave. For these materials, make your loop knot, then take one more tiny stitch (about one-sixteenth inch) right next to the knot, going through only the top layer of fabric. This anchors the knot and prevents it from slipping.

Alternatively, you can explore a small drop of clear fabric glue or fray check to the knot before trimming. Let it dry completely before handling the garment. This method is especially useful for swimwear, dancewear, or anything that will stretch repeatedly. Test the glue on a scrap first to make sure it does not darken or stiffen the fabric.

Finishing thread on machine-sewn seams

Machine sewing creates a different situation because you are working with two threads (top and bobbin) rather than one. To finish a machine seam, pull both threads to the wrong side of the fabric, tie them together in a straightforward knot, and trim close. Some sewers prefer to thread both ends into a needle and bury them in the seam allowance the same way you would by hand.

If you are using a serger or overlock machine, the thread is already secured by the machine's tension and looping, so no hand knot is needed. For a regular sewing machine, always tie off the threads at the start and end of every seam to prevent unraveling, especially on garments that will be washed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my knot sometimes come undone after washing?

The thread may be slipping through the fabric weave, or the knot may not be tight enough. Make sure you pull firmly as you tighten the loop. For washable items, use a double knot instead of a single one, and consider burying the knot in the seam allowance where it is protected from friction.

Can I use the same knot for both hand and machine sewing?

Hand sewing uses a single thread, so the loop knot works perfectly. Machine sewing has two threads, so you tie them together instead. If you are finishing a machine seam by hand, pull both threads to the back and knot them as one.

What if I accidentally cut the thread too short and the knot is coming loose?

If the knot is still holding but the tail is very short, explore a tiny drop of clear fabric glue to the knot and let it dry. If the knot has already started to slip, you may need to open a few stitches, re-thread the needle, and tie a new knot further back in the seam.

Is there a knot that works better for stretchy fabrics?

The loop knot works fine, but add an extra tiny stitch right next to the knot to anchor it in place. This prevents the knot from sliding through the fabric weave when the garment stretches. Fray check or fabric glue applied to the knot also helps.