The four knots that work for hand sewing

The knot you tie at the end of your thread keeps your stitches from unraveling when you finish a seam. The most common choice for hand sewing is the away knot or the surgeon's knot, depending on whether you are starting or finishing. A third option, the loop knot, works well for delicate fabrics. The fourth, a backstitch anchor, uses no knot at all — just thread looped through existing stitches.

Which one you choose depends on the fabric weight, whether you want the knot hidden inside the seam or visible on the surface, and how much bulk you can tolerate. A heavy denim seam can handle a surgeon's knot. A silk blouse needs something smaller. This guide walks you through each method so you can pick the one that fits your project.

Key Takeaways

  • The away knot is the fastest method for starting a seam and hides inside the fabric layers.
  • The surgeon's knot creates a double loop and holds better in heavy fabrics or seams under stress.
  • The loop knot uses minimal thread and works best on delicate or lightweight materials.
  • A backstitch anchor requires no knot and distributes tension across multiple stitches instead of one point.
  • Test your chosen knot on scrap fabric first to see how much bulk it adds and whether it holds through washing.

The away knot: fastest for starting a seam

The away knot is the standard choice when you begin sewing. Thread your needle, then hold the thread between your thumb and forefinger about two inches from the end. Wrap the long end of the thread around your finger once, creating a small loop. Pull the loop tight so it cinches the short end of the thread. The result is a small knot at the end of your thread.

Push the needle through the fabric from the back side, about a quarter inch away from where you want your first stitch to start. Pull the thread until the knot catches on the back of the fabric. This knot sits on the wrong side of the seam and stays hidden when the garment is worn. It works on most fabric weights and is fast enough that you can tie it without setting down your work.

The surgeon's knot: strongest hold for stress seams

A surgeon's knot is thicker than an away knot and holds better in seams that will take repeated stress — a bag handle, a buttonhole, or the crotch seam of pants. To tie it, make the same loop as the away knot, but before you pull it tight, wrap the thread around your finger a second time. Now pull both loops tight at once. You now have a knot with two wraps instead of one.

This double wrap creates more friction and bulk, which is why it works better in heavy fabrics and high-stress areas. The trade-off is that it is slightly slower to tie and leaves a more visible bump on the back of the fabric. If you are sewing a decorative seam on the outside of a garment, the extra bulk may show. Test it on a scrap of your fabric first to decide whether the thickness is acceptable for your project.

The loop knot: minimal bulk for delicate fabrics

The loop knot uses less thread and creates a smaller knot than either the away knot or the surgeon's knot. It is the best choice for silk, linen, or other fabrics where bulk shows through. Thread your needle and hold the thread between your thumb and forefinger. Instead of wrapping around your finger, straightforward make a small loop with the thread and push the needle through the loop. Pull the thread tight. The result is a knot about half the size of an away knot.

This method takes a few tries to master because the loop is small and straightforward to miss with the needle. Practice on a piece of scrap fabric until you can tie it consistently. Once you have the motion down, it becomes as fast as the away knot. The smaller knot means less chance of the thread showing through thin fabrics or creating a visible bump under a seam.

The backstitch anchor: no knot needed

If you want to avoid a knot altogether, you can anchor your thread by backstitching over the same spot several times. Thread your needle and push it through the fabric where you want to start. Instead of tying a knot, take three or four small backstitches in the same spot, each one overlapping the last. The thread is now locked in place by the stitches themselves rather than by a knot.

This method distributes the tension across multiple stitches instead of concentrating it on a single knot. It works well on all fabric weights and is especially useful if you are sewing a seam that will be hidden inside a garment — the backstitches are invisible once the seam is pressed. The downside is that it takes slightly longer than tying a knot, and it uses a bit more thread. At the end of a seam, you can use the same method: take three or four backstitches in the same spot to lock the thread, then trim the excess.

How to hide a knot inside a seam

If you have already tied a knot and want to hide it, push the needle through the fabric from the back, then slide the needle between the two layers of fabric for about half an inch before pushing it back out. This hides the knot inside the seam where it will not show on either side of the garment. The knot sits between the layers and the thread emerges from the fabric ready for your first stitch.

This technique works with any of the knots described above. It takes a few extra seconds but is worth the effort on visible seams. Practice on scrap fabric first so you can feel how far the needle travels between the layers and where it emerges. Once you have the motion down, it becomes automatic.

Testing your knot on scrap fabric

Before you commit to a knot method on your actual project, tie it on a piece of scrap fabric that matches your project fabric as closely as possible. Pull on the thread to see how much the knot resists. Wash and dry the scrap if your finished garment will be washed. Some knots hold better after washing, while others loosen slightly. This test tells you whether your chosen knot will survive the life of the garment.

Also check how visible the knot is on both sides of the fabric. Hold the scrap up to the light and look at the back. If the knot creates a bump that shows through, you may want to switch to a smaller knot or the backstitch anchor method instead. Spending five minutes on a test now saves you from having to rip out seams later.

Frequently Asked Questions

What do I do if my knot comes untied while I am sewing?

Stop and re-tie the knot before you continue. If the knot has already slipped partway through the fabric, push the needle back through the fabric at the same spot and tie a new knot on the back side. You may lose one or two stitches, but it is better to find the thread now than to have the entire seam unravel later.

Can I use the same knot method for both starting and finishing a seam?

Yes. The away knot, surgeon's knot, and loop knot all work at either end of a seam. The backstitch anchor also works at both ends. Choose based on your fabric weight and how much bulk you can tolerate, not on whether you are starting or finishing.

Is it better to tie a knot or use backstitches?

Both methods work. Knots are faster and use less thread. Backstitches distribute tension more evenly and create no visible bump. For most hand sewing, a knot is the practical choice. For seams that will be hidden or that need maximum strength, backstitches are worth the extra time.

How tight should I pull the knot?

Pull it tight enough that it does not slip when you tug on the thread, but not so tight that you bend the needle or tear the thread. If you are using a delicate thread like silk, pull gently — these threads break more easily than cotton or polyester. Test on scrap fabric to find the right tension for your materials.

What if the knot is too big and shows through my fabric?

Switch to the loop knot, which is smaller, or use the backstitch anchor method instead. If you have already tied a knot that is too visible, you can hide it by sliding the needle between the fabric layers as described in the section above, or you can rip out the seam and start over with a smaller knot.