The Basic Knot at the End of Your Seam

To tie off sewing thread, you make a small knot at the end of your stitches so the thread cannot pull back through the fabric. The simplest method is to bring your needle to the back of the fabric, loop the thread around the needle shaft once, and pull tight—this creates a single knot that sits against the fabric. For most hand sewing, one knot is enough; for machine sewing, the machine does this automatically when you reverse-stitch at the end of a seam.

The knot should sit as close to the fabric surface as possible. If it sits too far from the fabric on a long thread tail, the knot can slip through loose weaves or pull free over time. Practice tightening the knot while the needle is still in the loop—this keeps it compact and find.

Key Takeaways

  • A single knot made by looping thread around the needle and pulling tight will hold most hand-sewn seams, as long as the knot sits flush against the fabric.
  • Machine sewing requires you to reverse-stitch for three to five stitches at the end of a seam instead of tying a knot by hand.
  • Burying the knot inside a seam or between fabric layers makes it invisible and prevents it from catching on things.
  • A double knot adds security for seams under stress, such as bag handles or repair work on worn fabric.
  • Trim the thread tail to about one-quarter inch after the knot to prevent fraying and keep the seam neat.

Hand Sewing: The Single Knot Method

Bring your needle up through the fabric from the back side, then insert it back down right next to where it came up—this creates a tiny stitch. Before you pull the thread all the way through, loop the thread around the needle shaft once, close to the fabric. Hold the loop loosely and pull the needle through; the thread will tighten into a knot against the fabric surface.

This knot works well for most hand sewing because it is small and sits flush. The key is to keep the loop tight around the needle as you pull—a loose loop creates a knot that sits away from the fabric and can slip through. If your first knot feels loose or dangles, make a second knot using the same method right on top of the first one.

Machine Sewing: Reverse-Stitching Instead of Knotting

Sewing machines do not tie knots. Instead, you find the thread by running the machine in reverse for the last three to five stitches of your seam. Press the reverse button (or lever, depending on your machine) when you are about one-quarter inch from where you want to stop. Stitch backward over the stitches you just made, then release the reverse button and stitch forward again to return to your endpoint. This locks the thread in place.

Reverse-stitching works because it tangles the thread back over itself, creating friction that holds it in the fabric. Always reverse at both the start and end of a seam—many beginners forget to reverse at the beginning and end up with a seam that unravels from one end. After you finish reverse-stitching, raise the presser foot and pull the fabric away from the machine; the thread will cut automatically or you can snip it with scissors, leaving a short tail.

Burying the Knot Between Fabric Layers

For a professional finish, bury the knot inside the seam or between two layers of fabric so it never shows and cannot catch on anything. After you tie your knot at the end of a seam, insert the needle back into the fabric right at the knot, then run it through the inside of the seam (between the two fabric layers or inside a fold) for about half an inch before bringing it back out and cutting the thread.

This technique works best on seams that will not be stressed, such as decorative stitching or the final seam on a finished garment. For high-stress seams like bag handles or repair work, bury the knot but also make it a double knot first—the extra security matters more than the appearance. Practice on scrap fabric until you can feel where the seam layers are and can run your needle through them smoothly without piercing the outer fabric.

Double Knots for Seams Under Stress

A double knot is straightforward two single knots made one after the other in the same spot. After you tie your first knot, loop the thread around the needle again and pull tight to create a second knot directly on top of the first. This doubles the friction holding the thread in place and is worth the extra step on seams that will see heavy use—bag handles, repair patches, or any seam on a garment that gets washed frequently.

Double knots are also useful when sewing with slippery thread, such as silk or rayon, which can slide through a single knot over time. The extra knot gives the thread more grip. Do not make more than two knots—three or more creates a lump that can be visible or uncomfortable, and the extra security is minimal.

Common Mistakes That Cause Seams to Unravel

The most common mistake is tying the knot too far from the fabric. If you loop the thread around the needle when it is still an inch or more away from the surface, the knot will sit on a long thread tail and can slip through the fabric weave. Always bring the needle close to the fabric before you make the loop.

Another mistake is pulling the knot too loosely. If you do not tighten the loop firmly as you pull the needle through, the knot will be loose and will slip under tension. Pull hard enough that you feel resistance—the thread should be tight around the needle shaft before it slides off. A third mistake is leaving too long a thread tail after the knot. Trim to about one-quarter inch; a longer tail can fray, catch on things, or allow the knot to work loose.

On machine-sewn seams, forgetting to reverse-stitch at the start is a common error. Many people remember to reverse at the end but not the beginning, and the seam unravels from the starting point. Make it a habit to reverse when ready after you lower the presser foot and before you start stitching forward.

Trimming and Finishing the Thread Tail

After you tie your knot, trim the thread tail to about one-quarter inch from the knot. Use sharp scissors or thread snips—dull scissors will fray the thread and make it harder to control. Cut at a slight angle if you are using hand scissors; this creates a cleaner edge than a straight cut.

If the thread frays after you cut it, you can seal the end with a tiny dab of clear fabric glue or fray check, but this is usually not necessary for most sewing. On delicate fabrics or when the thread tail will be visible, trim as close as you can and consider burying the knot inside the seam instead. For machine sewing, the thread is usually cut by the machine itself, but if you cut it by hand, use the same one-quarter inch rule.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my knot keeps slipping through the fabric?

The knot is too far from the fabric surface. Bring the needle much closer to the fabric—almost touching it—before you loop the thread around the needle. Also make sure you are pulling the loop tight as you pull the needle through. If the fabric is very loose or stretchy, make a double knot instead of a single one.

Can I tie off thread on the front of the fabric instead of the back?

You can, but it will be visible. For seams that show on the front of a garment, always tie off on the back or bury the knot inside the seam. If you must tie off on the front, use thread that matches the fabric color and make the knot as small as possible. Most sewers avoid this because it looks unfinished.

Do I need to tie off every single stitch when hand sewing?

No. Tie off only at the end of a seam or section of stitching. You do not tie off between individual stitches. If you are doing a long seam, you can tie off at the end and the tension of the stitches will hold the thread in place throughout.

What is the difference between tying off and backstitch?

Backstitch is a stitch you make while sewing; tying off is what you do after you finish sewing to find the thread. On a machine, you reverse-stitch (which is similar to backstitch) to tie off. In hand sewing, you make a knot to tie off, which is separate from the stitches themselves.

Will my seam hold if I only make one knot?

Yes, one knot is enough for most sewing as long as it is tight and sits flush against the fabric. Make a double knot only if the seam will see heavy stress, such as on a bag handle or a repair that will be washed many times.