Getting Started with Your Kenmore 385

The Kenmore 385 is a mechanical sewing machine with a straightforward needle-and-bobbin system, no computer controls, and a straightforward stitch selector dial. To start sewing, you thread the top and bobbin, set your stitch, adjust tension, and lower the presser foot before running fabric under the needle. The machine does not require batteries or electricity beyond plugging into an outlet, and most repairs you will encounter are adjustments you can make yourself.

This guide walks you through the steps in the order you will use them each time you sew. If you are new to sewing altogether, spend time with the threading steps first—they are the foundation for every project.

Key Takeaways

  • Thread the top of the machine with the presser foot raised, because raising it opens the tension discs and allows thread to seat properly.
  • Wind and insert the bobbin before threading the top, and check that the bobbin is spinning freely in its case.
  • The stitch selector dial on the front of the machine controls which stitch pattern the machine will sew; turn it to the number or symbol you want.
  • Tension is adjusted with the numbered dial on the top left; start at 5 and move higher only if the top thread shows on the back of your fabric.
  • Always lower the presser foot before sewing, or the tension will not engage and your stitches will be loose and uneven.

Winding and Installing the Bobbin

The bobbin is the small spool that holds thread underneath your fabric. On the Kenmore 385, the bobbin case sits on the left side of the machine under a hinged metal cover. Before you thread the top of the machine, wind a fresh bobbin and place it in the case.

To wind the bobbin, place an empty bobbin on the bobbin winder pin on the top right of the machine. Pull thread from your spool, wrap it around the bobbin two or three times by hand to anchor it, then press the bobbin winder against the wheel on the right side of the machine. The wheel will turn and wind thread onto the bobbin. Stop when the bobbin is full—the winder will disengage automatically, or you can press it away from the wheel by hand. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin.

Insert the wound bobbin into the bobbin case with the thread tail pointing toward you. Pull the thread tail through the slot in the bobbin case (you will feel it catch), then close the metal cover. The bobbin should spin freely when you flick it with your finger; if it does not, remove it and rewind.

Threading the Top of the Machine

Threading must happen with the presser foot raised. Raising the foot opens two metal discs inside the machine called tension discs; thread must pass between them for tension to work. If you thread with the foot down, the thread will not seat properly and your stitches will be loose.

Raise the presser foot lever on the back right of the machine. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin at the top left. Pull thread down and to the right, guiding it through the thread guide (a small hook above the tension dial). Continue down and through the tension dial itself—you will feel the thread click into place between the discs. Thread down and through the take-up lever (a small hook that moves up and down on the left side), then down through the needle guide just above the needle.

Insert thread through the needle from front to back, leaving a 2-inch tail hanging below the needle. If you have trouble seeing the needle eye, use a needle threader: hook the wire loop through the needle, pass thread through the loop, then pull the loop back through the needle. Cut the thread at the needle if it frays.

Selecting a Stitch and Adjusting Tension

The stitch selector dial is the large numbered wheel on the front of the machine. Stitch 1 is a straight stitch (the most common for everyday sewing). Stitches 2 through 20 are decorative and utility stitches—zigzag, stretch, blind hem, and others. Turn the dial to the number or symbol you want. The dial clicks into place at each stitch.

Tension controls how tightly the top and bottom threads interlock. The tension dial is on the top left, numbered 0 to 9. Start at 5 for most fabrics. Sew a test line on scrap fabric. If the top thread shows as loops on the back of your fabric, turn the dial to a higher number (tighter). If the bobbin thread shows as loops on the front, turn the dial to a lower number (looser). Make small adjustments—move one number at a time—and test again.

For lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn, you may need tension between 3 and 5. For heavier fabrics like denim or canvas, you may need 6 or 7. Tension changes when you switch thread types or fabric weight, so always test on scrap fabric first.

Lowering the Presser Foot and Beginning to Sew

The presser foot holds fabric flat against the feed dogs (the metal teeth that move fabric forward). If the foot is raised, the feed dogs will not grip the fabric and it will not move. Always lower the foot before sewing.

Place your fabric under the presser foot. Lower the foot lever on the back right of the machine. The foot will press down and hold the fabric. Position your hands on either side of the needle, holding the fabric gently but not pulling it—the feed dogs do the moving. Hold the top thread tail in your left hand for the first few stitches to prevent the needle from pulling it down and tangling the bobbin thread.

Press the foot pedal slowly to begin sewing. The needle will move up and down, and the fabric will move forward with each stitch. To stop, release the pedal and raise the presser foot. Raise the needle by turning the hand wheel (the large wheel on the right side) toward you, then pull the fabric away gently. Cut the thread, leaving a 2-inch tail on both top and bobbin.

Changing Needles and Troubleshooting Common Problems

The needle is held in place by a small screw on the needle clamp (the metal piece that surrounds the needle). Loosen this screw by hand or with a small screwdriver, remove the old needle, and insert a new one with the flat side facing the correct direction—check your manual for your specific model, as direction varies. Tighten the screw firmly. Always use needles marked for household sewing machines; industrial needles will not fit.

If stitches are skipping or breaking, the needle may be bent or dull. Replace it. If the machine is not picking up bobbin thread, the bobbin may be wound too loosely or inserted incorrectly—rewind and reinstall. If thread is bunching under the fabric, you may have missed a threading step; raise the presser foot and rethread from the beginning. If the machine is making a loud grinding noise, stop when ready and check that nothing is stuck in the feed dogs or needle area.

Maintenance Between Projects

After every few projects, brush lint and thread scraps from the bobbin area using a small brush or old toothbrush. Open the bobbin cover and gently brush around the feed dogs and bobbin case. Do not use compressed air, which can blow lint deeper into the machine.

Oil the machine once or twice a year if you sew regularly. Use only sewing machine oil, available at fabric stores—never use household oil or WD-40. Place one drop on the moving parts: the needle bar, the presser bar, and the feed dog assembly. Run the machine empty for a few seconds to distribute the oil, then sew on scrap fabric to remove excess before starting a project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my thread breaking while I sew?

Thread breaks when tension is too tight, the needle is bent or dull, or thread is not threaded correctly. First, replace the needle. If breaking continues, lower the tension dial by one or two numbers and test again. If the problem persists, raise the presser foot and rethread the top completely, making sure thread clicks into the tension discs.

Can I use any thread in this machine?

Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread in standard weight. Avoid very thick thread (like buttonhole thread) or very thin thread (like silk) unless your manual specifically mentions them. Heavy thread can break the needle or jam the bobbin; thin thread may not create even stitches. Test new thread types on scrap fabric first.

What does it mean when the needle goes in and out but no stitch forms?

The bobbin is likely empty or not inserted correctly. Check that the bobbin has thread wound on it and that it is spinning freely in the case. If the bobbin is full, remove it and reinsert it, making sure the thread tail passes through the slot in the bobbin case. If stitches still do not form, the bobbin case itself may need cleaning—brush lint from inside the case with a small brush.

Do I need to oil this machine regularly?

Oil once or twice a year if you sew regularly, or once a year if you sew occasionally. Use only sewing machine oil. Over-oiling can attract lint and cause buildup, so use one drop per location and run the machine empty for a few seconds to distribute it.

What is the hand wheel for?

The hand wheel on the right side of the machine lets you move the needle up and down by hand. Use it to raise the needle before removing fabric, or to position the needle at the top of its cycle before you start sewing. Always turn it toward you (counterclockwise), never away from you.