Getting Started With Emily's Sewing Machine

Emily's sewing machines come in two main types: mechanical models with manual stitch selection, and computerized models with digital displays and preset stitches. Both work the same way at the core—you thread the machine, load fabric, and the needle moves up and down to create stitches. The difference is that computerized models let you choose stitches by pressing buttons, while mechanical models require you to turn a dial or lever.

Before you sew anything, you need to know which model you have. Check the manual that came with the machine, or look for a model number on the back or bottom of the machine. Emily's website has downloadable manuals for every model, organized by model number. If you do not have the manual, you can search "Emily [model number] manual" and usually find a PDF within seconds.

Key Takeaways

  • Threading the machine correctly is the single most common reason stitches fail—the presser foot must be raised before you thread so the tension discs open.
  • Bobbin thread goes in the small compartment on the side or bottom of the machine, and the bobbin case must click into place or stitches will skip.
  • The needle goes in with the flat side facing the correct direction (usually toward the back), and it must be fully seated or the machine will not catch the bobbin thread.
  • Always test on scrap fabric before sewing your actual project, because tension and stitch length affect how the seam looks.

Threading the Machine Correctly

The most common mistake is threading while the presser foot is down. When the presser foot is down, the tension discs are squeezed shut, and the thread cannot pass between them. Raise the presser foot first—you will hear or feel a small click. This opens the tension discs so the thread can slide through.

With the presser foot raised, guide the thread from the spool through the thread guide (a small hook or loop at the top of the machine), then down through the tension discs. The thread should sit between the two metal discs. Continue down through any other guides or hooks on the machine until you reach the needle. Different Emily models have different numbers of guides, so follow the diagram in your manual or the printed arrows on the machine itself.

Insert the thread through the needle from front to back (or the direction your manual shows). The thread should go all the way through so it hangs down about 6 inches on the other side. If the thread is hard to push through the needle eye, use a needle threader—a small wire loop that comes with most machines. Hook the wire loop through the needle, put your thread through the wire loop, then pull the wire back out. The thread will follow.

Loading and Winding the Bobbin

The bobbin is a small spool that holds the bottom thread. Most Emily machines use a plastic bobbin that sits in a removable case. Before you wind a bobbin, check your manual to see if your model uses a top-loading or side-loading bobbin case. Top-loading cases are on the top of the machine under a hinged cover. Side-loading cases are on the side, usually near the presser foot.

To wind a bobbin, place an empty bobbin on the bobbin winder (a small post on the top or side of the machine). Guide thread from your spool through the bobbin winder tension guide, then wrap it around the bobbin a few times by hand. Press the bobbin winder against the machine shaft until it clicks—this engages the winder. Press the foot pedal or press the start button (depending on your model) and let the machine wind the bobbin. When the bobbin is full, the winder will stop automatically or you will hear a change in sound. Remove the bobbin and trim the thread.

Insert the wound bobbin into the bobbin case. The bobbin should sit flat in the case, and the thread should pass through the tension spring on the side of the case. Push the bobbin case into the machine until it clicks into place. If it does not click, it is not fully seated, and stitches will skip. You will know it is right when you cannot wiggle the case side to side.

Installing and Aligning the Needle

Emily machines use standard needles that come in different sizes and types. The needle size is printed on the package (like 80/12 or 90/14). Thinner fabrics use smaller needles, and thicker fabrics use larger needles. The needle type matters too—universal needles work for most sewing, but ballpoint needles are for knits, and topstitching needles have a larger eye for thick thread.

To install a needle, raise the presser foot and turn the handwheel (the large wheel on the right side of the machine) toward you until the needle is at its highest point. Loosen the needle clamp screw (a small screw above or below the needle) and remove the old needle. Insert the new needle with the flat side facing the direction shown in your manual—usually toward the back of the machine. Push the needle up into the clamp as far as it will go, then tighten the screw firmly. The needle should not wiggle.

A needle that is installed backwards or not fully seated will cause the machine to skip stitches or break the needle. If you install a new needle and stitches still skip, the needle may be bent. Remove it and hold it up to the light—if it is not perfectly straight, throw it away and install a fresh one.

Setting Stitch Length and Tension

Stitch length is how far the fabric moves forward with each stitch. Most sewing uses a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. Shorter stitches (1.0 to 1.5) are for seams that need to be strong, like repairs or topstitching. Longer stitches (3.0 to 4.0) are for basting (temporary stitches) or decorative work. On mechanical machines, turn the stitch length dial. On computerized machines, use the up and down buttons to change the number on the display.

Tension controls how tight or loose the stitches are. The top tension dial is usually numbered 0 to 9, with 4 or 5 being the default. If the top thread is too loose, the bobbin thread will show on top of the fabric—turn the dial up (toward higher numbers). If the top thread is too tight, the bobbin thread will pull the top thread to the underside—turn the dial down (toward lower numbers). Change tension one number at a time and test on scrap fabric after each change.

Most sewing problems come from tension that is too tight. If you are new to the machine, start with the dial at the default setting and only adjust if stitches look wrong. Many people turn the dial all the way up thinking it will help, and that makes things worse.

Sewing Your First Seam

Place two pieces of fabric under the presser foot with the edges aligned. Lower the presser foot by pressing the foot pedal or the foot lever (depending on your model). The presser foot holds the fabric in place so it does not slip. Position the fabric so the edge is about 5/8 inch from the needle—this is the standard seam allowance. Most Emily machines have a guide line etched into the throat plate (the metal plate around the needle) to help you line up the fabric.

Press the foot pedal slowly to start sewing. The machine will move the fabric forward and the needle will go up and down. Keep your hands on the fabric to guide it, but do not pull it—let the machine feed it. At the end of the seam, lift the presser foot and pull the fabric toward you. The machine will cut the thread automatically (on some models) or you will need to trim it with scissors.

Always test on scrap fabric first. Sew a short seam, then look at both sides. The stitches should look even and the same size on top and bottom. If they do not, check that the needle is installed correctly, the bobbin is seated all the way, and the thread is threaded through all the guides.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Stitches skip or look uneven: This usually means the needle is bent, installed backwards, or not fully seated. Remove the needle, inspect it, and reinstall it. If you have a new needle on hand, install that instead. Also check that the bobbin case is clicked all the way in and the bobbin thread is threaded through the tension spring.

Thread breaks while sewing: The needle may be hitting the presser foot or bobbin case, which means the needle is installed wrong or the presser foot is not lowered. Raise the presser foot, check the needle direction, and try again. If thread keeps breaking, the needle may be too small for the fabric or thread you are using—try a larger needle size.

Bobbin thread shows on top: The top tension is too loose. Turn the tension dial up one number at a time and test on scrap fabric. If you reach 8 or 9 and it still shows, the bobbin may be wound too loosely or the bobbin case may not be seated correctly.

Machine makes a loud grinding noise: Stop when ready and raise the presser foot. There may be a piece of thread or fabric caught under the presser foot or in the bobbin area. Remove any debris you can see. If the noise continues, the machine may need professional service.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to raise the presser foot every time I thread the machine?

Yes. The presser foot controls whether the tension discs are open or closed. If the foot is down, the discs are squeezed shut and thread cannot pass through. This is the number one reason people think their machine is broken when it is just not threaded correctly.

What should I do if the needle breaks while I am sewing?

Stop when ready and raise the presser foot. Remove any pieces of the broken needle from the machine and the fabric. Install a new needle, making sure it is the correct size and direction. Check that the bobbin case is seated correctly. If needles keep breaking, the presser foot may be hitting the needle, which means the needle is installed backwards.

Can I use any thread in my Emily machine?

Most all-purpose polyester or cotton thread works fine. Avoid very old thread because it becomes brittle and breaks easily. Specialty threads like metallic or thick topstitching thread may need a larger needle or a special needle threader. Check your manual for thread recommendations for your specific model.

Why does my bobbin keep coming loose?

The bobbin case may not be clicking all the way into the machine. Remove it and reinsert it firmly until you hear or feel a click. If it still comes loose, the case may be damaged or worn. Contact Emily customer service or a local sewing machine repair shop to have the case replaced.

What is the difference between a mechanical and computerized Emily machine?

Mechanical machines use dials and levers to select stitches and adjust settings. Computerized machines use buttons and a digital display. Both thread and sew the same way—the difference is only in how you choose which stitch to use. Computerized machines often have more stitch options and can remember settings, but mechanical machines are simpler and have fewer things that can break.