What a hemming foot does and when to use it
A hemming foot (also called a blind hem foot) is an attachment that guides fabric so you can sew a hidden stitch along a folded hem. Instead of stitching through both layers of fabric where it shows on the outside, the needle catches only a thread or two from the fold, then passes through the body of the hem. The result is a seam that is nearly invisible from the front.
You use a hemming foot when you want a professional-looking finish on pants, skirts, dresses, or any garment where a visible stitch line would look unfinished. It works best on woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and wool. Stretchy knits can work, but they require a ballpoint needle and slower speed to avoid skipped stitches.
Not every sewing machine comes with a hemming foot in the box. If yours did not, you can buy one for $8 to $20 at a fabric store or online. Make sure you get the right type for your machine — some are universal, but others are specific to the brand or presser foot system.
Key Takeaways
- A hemming foot holds the fold of fabric at the right angle so the needle catches only the inner threads, leaving the outside stitch invisible.
- You must fold and press your hem before you start sewing, and the fold must be perfectly straight or the stitch will miss and create holes.
- The needle position and stitch type matter: most machines use a blind hem stitch, and the needle must be set to catch the fold on the left swing of the needle.
- Practice on scrap fabric first, because the foot takes adjustment to get right, and a bad tension or needle position ruins the hem.
Preparing your fabric and hem before you attach the foot
The hemming foot can only work if the hem is already folded and pressed. Start by folding the raw edge of your fabric up about half an inch, then fold it up again by the width you want your finished hem to be — typically one inch for pants or a quarter inch for a delicate garment. Press this fold with an iron so it holds its shape.
Next, fold the hem itself in half lengthwise so the fold line faces outward. This fold is what the hemming foot will ride along. Press this second fold as well. The crease must be sharp and straight, or the foot will slip and the needle will miss the fold entirely, leaving holes in your garment.
If your hem is curved — like the leg of a pant or the bottom of a circle skirt — you may need to ease the fabric slightly as you fold. Curved hems are harder to keep straight, so practice on a straight edge first.
Installing the hemming foot and threading your machine
Remove your current presser foot by pressing or unscrewing the lever or screw that holds it in place. Your machine's manual will show you exactly where this is. Slide the hemming foot onto the presser bar and find it the same way.
Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric. For a blind hem, you want the thread to disappear into the fold, so an exact color match matters more than it does for a regular seam. If you cannot find an exact match, choose one shade darker rather than lighter.
Set your machine to a blind hem stitch. This is a stitch pattern that goes straight for several stitches, then makes one diagonal stitch to the left. Check your manual for the stitch number — it is often labeled with a symbol that looks like a zigzag with a long straight section. If your machine does not have a blind hem stitch, you can use a narrow zigzag, but the result will be less invisible.
Positioning the fabric under the foot and adjusting the needle
Slide your folded hem under the hemming foot so the fold sits in the groove or guide on the foot. The foot has a metal blade or guide that should run along the fold line. The bulk of the fabric should be to the left of the foot, and the fold should be on the right side, nestled against the guide.
Lower the presser foot and turn the handwheel by hand to make one complete stitch. Watch where the needle lands. On a blind hem stitch, the needle should go straight down into the body of the hem for most of the stitch, then swing left and catch just one or two threads from the fold itself. If the needle is catching too much fabric from the fold, or missing it entirely, you need to adjust the needle position.
Most machines have a needle position dial or button. Move it slightly to the right if the needle is catching too much of the fold, or to the left if it is missing the fold. Make this adjustment in small increments — even one position can change where the needle lands. Test again on scrap fabric before you sew your actual garment.
Sewing the hem at the right speed and tension
Set your machine to a medium speed — not the fastest setting. A hemming foot requires more control than a regular seam, and going too fast makes it straightforward to drift away from the fold. Start with your foot pedal at about half speed until you get the feel for it.
Check your tension before you start. If the thread is too tight, it will pucker the fold and create visible dimples. If it is too loose, the stitch will not hold. Start with the tension at the setting your machine recommends for regular sewing, then test on scrap fabric. If the stitches look loose or the thread breaks, tighten it slightly. If the fabric puckers, loosen it.
As you sew, guide the fold gently into the guide on the foot. Do not pull the fabric — let the foot do the work. Your job is to keep the fold straight and feed the fabric at an even pace. If you feel the fold slipping out of the guide, stop, reposition it, and start again. A misaligned fold will create a line of holes that is hard to fix.
Fixing common problems and when to start over
If your stitches are skipping or the needle is breaking, the problem is usually tension or needle position. Stop and check both before you sew another inch. A skipped stitch on a blind hem is visible from the front, and you will have to remove the whole seam and start over.
If the fold keeps slipping out of the guide, your hem may not be pressed firmly enough, or the fold may not be straight. Remove the fabric, re-press the fold with a hot iron, and try again. A limp fold will never stay in place.
If you see a line of holes where the needle missed the fold, you can sometimes fix it by going back over that section with a needle and thread by hand, catching the loose threads and pulling them tight. But if the holes are large or numerous, it is faster to remove the seam, re-press the hem, and sew it again. Blind hems are forgiving that way — the stitches come out cleanly if you need to redo them.
Finishing the hem and removing the foot
When you reach the end of your hem, sew past the fold by about half an inch, then stop and raise the presser foot. Trim the thread tails to about half an inch and tie them off by hand with a small knot, or use your machine's thread-locking feature if it has one.
Press the finished hem with an iron to set the stitches and remove any wrinkles from the fold. This also helps the stitches blend into the fabric. Once the hem is cool, try on the garment and check that the stitch is invisible from the front. If you see thread, the needle position was slightly off, but the hem will still hold.
Remove the hemming foot by pressing or unscrewing the presser foot lever, then slide the foot off the bar. Store it in a small box or bag so you do not lose it — hemming feet are straightforward to misplace and annoying to hunt for later.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a hemming foot on stretchy fabric like jersey or knit?
Yes, but you need a ballpoint needle instead of a regular sharp needle, and you should sew slowly. Ballpoint needles slide between the fibers rather than piercing them, which prevents runs and skipped stitches on knits. Test on a scrap first, because knit hems can still be tricky.
What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?
You can use a narrow zigzag stitch instead, though the result will not be quite as invisible. Set the width to about 1.5 and the length to 2. The stitch will be slightly visible, but it will still hold the hem securely.
Why does my hemming foot keep slipping out of the fold?
The fold is probably not pressed firmly enough, or it is not perfectly straight. Remove the fabric, re-press the fold with a hot iron and hold it for a few seconds, then try again. A crisp, sharp fold will stay in the guide.
How do I know if my needle position is correct?
Turn the handwheel by hand and watch the needle. It should go straight down into the body of the hem for most stitches, then swing left and catch just one or two threads from the fold. If it is catching more than that, or missing the fold entirely, adjust the needle position dial slightly and test again on scrap fabric.
Can I sew a blind hem on a curved edge like a circle skirt?
Yes, but it is harder because the fold wants to bunch. Ease the fabric gently as you sew, and go slowly. You may need to stop and reposition the fold more often than you would on a straight hem. Practice on a straight edge first to get the foot adjusted correctly.