Threading the needle and bobbin are the first steps before you sew anything

Before you can sew, your machine needs thread in two places: the needle (the top thread) and the bobbin (the bottom thread). Most machines have a diagram printed on the body showing the exact path for the top thread — follow it exactly, because thread that skips a guide will break or skip stitches. Start with the presser foot up (the lever on the back or side), because raising it opens the tension discs that grip the thread.

Pull the thread from your spool and guide it through each metal loop and guide in order, following the printed path. The last stop is the needle itself — thread goes in from front to back. If your needle has a flat side, that flat side faces the direction shown in your manual. Once the needle is threaded, hold the top thread loosely in your left hand and turn the handwheel (the large wheel on the right side of the machine) toward you one full rotation. This pulls the bobbin thread up through the needle plate so both threads are ready.

Key Takeaways

  • Always raise the presser foot before threading — this opens the tension discs and lets thread move freely through the machine.
  • Follow the printed threading diagram on your machine exactly, because skipped guides cause broken thread and skipped stitches.
  • The bobbin (bottom thread) sits in a case under the needle plate and must be wound on the bobbin winder before you insert it.
  • Test your tension on scrap fabric first — balanced tension means the two threads lock invisibly in the middle of the fabric, not on top or bottom.
  • Start sewing slowly by turning the handwheel by hand for the first few stitches, then use the foot pedal once you feel the rhythm.

Winding and inserting the bobbin

The bobbin is a small spool that holds the bottom thread. Most machines come with several empty bobbins. To wind one, place it on the bobbin winder (a spindle on top of the machine, usually on the right side). Pull thread from your spool and wrap it around the bobbin two or three times by hand, then press the bobbin winder against the wheel on the side of the machine. The machine will wind thread onto the bobbin automatically when you press the foot pedal or turn the handwheel — stop when the bobbin is full and the winder clicks or pops out.

Once wound, remove the bobbin and insert it into the bobbin case. The bobbin case is a small metal or plastic holder that sits under the needle plate. Open it by unlatching the small lever or clip, drop the bobbin in so it spins freely, and thread the bobbin thread through the tension spring (a thin metal slot) on the case. Close the case and slide it back into the machine until it clicks. If you hear a grinding sound when you sew, the bobbin is usually inserted backward or the thread is not threaded through the tension spring.

Setting stitch length and width

Most machines have two dials or buttons: one for stitch length and one for stitch width. Stitch length is how far the needle moves forward with each stitch, measured in millimeters. A length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm is standard for most fabric and seams. Shorter stitches (1.0 to 1.5 mm) are stronger and used for seams that take stress or for detailed work. Longer stitches (3.0 to 4.0 mm) are used for basting (temporary stitches) or for thick fabric where you want fewer holes.

Stitch width applies only to stitches other than the straight stitch — it controls how far the needle swings side to side for a zigzag or decorative stitch. For a straight stitch, width is usually set to 0. Start with the length and width at the middle or default setting, sew a test line on scrap fabric, and adjust from there. If stitches are too short, the fabric bunches. If they are too long, the seam is weak.

Adjusting tension so stitches lock properly

Tension controls how tightly the top and bottom threads pull against each other. When tension is balanced, the two threads lock invisibly in the middle of the fabric layers — you cannot see either thread on the surface. When tension is too tight on top, the bottom thread shows as loops on the underside. When tension is too loose on top, the top thread shows as loops on the surface.

Most machines have a tension dial numbered 0 to 9, with 4 or 5 as the default. Start there and sew a test seam on two layers of scrap fabric. Look at both sides. If you see bottom thread looping on the back, turn the dial up (toward the higher number) to tighten the top tension. If you see top thread looping on the front, turn the dial down (toward the lower number) to loosen the top tension. Make small changes — one number at a time — and test again. Tension that works for lightweight cotton may not work for thick denim, so adjust when you change fabric weight.

Positioning fabric and starting your first seam

Place two pieces of fabric under the presser foot with the edges aligned where you want to sew. Lower the presser foot by pushing the lever down — this holds the fabric in place and engages the tension discs. Position your hands on either side of the needle, holding the fabric gently but not pulling. For your first few stitches, turn the handwheel toward you by hand, one rotation at a time. This gives you control and lets you feel the rhythm of the machine.

Once you have sewn three or four stitches by hand, you can use the foot pedal. Press it gently — the harder you press, the faster the machine sews. Most beginners sew too fast, which causes the machine to skip stitches or pull the fabric. Sew slowly at first. When you reach the end of the seam, stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot, and pull the fabric toward you. The machine will cut the thread automatically on most modern machines, or you can cut it by hand with scissors.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

Skipped stitches usually mean the needle is bent, inserted backward, or the thread is not fully seated in the tension discs. Stop sewing, raise the presser foot, rethread the top thread completely, and check that the needle is straight and inserted the correct direction. If skips continue, the needle may be damaged — replace it with a new one of the same size and type.

Thread breaking happens when tension is too tight, the needle is bent or the wrong size for your fabric, or thread is caught on something. Loosen the tension dial by one or two numbers, check the needle, and make sure thread moves freely through all guides. Bunched or puckered fabric usually means stitch length is too short for the fabric weight, or you are pulling the fabric instead of letting the machine feed it. Increase stitch length and keep your hands relaxed.

The machine not moving fabric forward means the presser foot is not lowered, the feed dogs (the metal teeth under the needle plate) are covered or lowered, or the fabric is too thick for the needle. Always lower the presser foot before sewing. If the feed dogs are covered by a plate, remove it. If fabric is very thick, use a larger needle and a longer stitch length.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size needle should I use?

Needle size is marked on the package as a number like 70, 80, 90, or 100 — higher numbers are thicker and for heavier fabric. Use size 70 or 80 for lightweight cotton and silk, size 90 for medium-weight fabric like regular cotton or linen, and size 100 or 110 for thick fabric like denim or canvas. Always use a fresh needle — a bent or dull needle causes skipped stitches and thread breaks.

Why does my thread keep breaking?

Thread breaks most often because tension is too tight, the needle is bent or inserted wrong, or thread is snagged on something. Loosen the tension dial by one or two numbers, replace the needle, and check that thread moves freely through all guides and the bobbin case. If breaks continue, try a different thread — old or low-quality thread breaks easily.

Can I sew different fabrics on the same machine?

Yes, but you may need to change the needle size and stitch length. Lightweight fabrics like silk need a smaller needle (size 60 or 70) and shorter stitches. Heavy fabrics like denim need a larger needle (size 100 or 110) and longer stitches. Always test on scrap fabric first to make sure the settings work before you sew your project.

What does the presser foot do?

The presser foot holds fabric flat against the needle plate so the feed dogs can move it forward evenly. It also engages the tension discs when lowered. Always lower the presser foot before sewing, even if you are just testing. Sewing with the presser foot up causes loose, uneven stitches.

How do I know if my bobbin is inserted correctly?

The bobbin should spin freely in its case and the thread should be threaded through the tension spring (the thin metal slot on the case). If you hear grinding or the machine does not move fabric forward, the bobbin is usually inserted backward or the thread is not in the tension spring. Remove the bobbin case, check the bobbin direction, and rethread the bobbin thread through the spring.