Skipped stitches happen when the needle misses the bobbin thread, and the most common cause is a needle that is bent, dull, or inserted backward

A skipped stitch looks like a gap in your seam where the thread did not lock. You will see it as a missing stitch or a loop of thread instead of a solid line. This happens because the needle and bobbin thread did not connect at the right moment. The needle either did not go down far enough to catch the bobbin thread, or it was already moving back up when the bobbin thread was in position.

Most of the time, skipped stitches come from one of five sources: the needle itself, the threading path, the bobbin, the presser foot pressure, or the machine timing. The good news is that you can check and fix most of these in under ten minutes without taking your machine to a repair shop.

Key Takeaways

  • A bent or dull needle is the most common cause of skipped stitches—replace it with a fresh needle in the correct size and type for your fabric.
  • Rethread your machine with the presser foot up so the tension discs open, and make sure the thread sits fully in the take-up lever.
  • Check that your bobbin is wound evenly, inserted all the way, and that the bobbin case is clean and free of lint and thread bits.
  • Skipped stitches in only one spot on your fabric usually point to a needle problem, while skipped stitches throughout a seam usually point to threading or tension.
  • If you have tried needle, threading, and bobbin and the problem continues, the machine timing may be off and will need professional adjustment.

Check and replace the needle first

The needle is the first thing to inspect because it wears out faster than any other part and is the easiest to replace. Remove the needle by loosening the needle clamp screw (usually on the right side of the needle bar) and sliding the needle straight down and out. Look at the needle tip under good light or with a magnifying glass. A bent needle will be obvious—even a tiny bend will cause skipped stitches. A dull needle looks fine to the eye but will not pierce fabric cleanly.

Insert a fresh needle with the flat side facing the correct direction for your machine. Most machines have the flat side facing the back, but check your manual to be sure. The needle should slide all the way up into the clamp until it stops, then tighten the clamp screw firmly. Use a needle that matches both your fabric weight and your thread type. A size 80/12 needle works for most cotton and light wovens, but heavier fabrics need a 90/14 or 100/16, and stretch fabrics need a ballpoint or stretch needle.

Replace the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing, or sooner if you have been sewing over pins, heavy fabrics, or seams with multiple layers. A needle that has hit a pin will bend or break inside, and you may not see the damage from the outside.

Rethread the machine with the presser foot up

Threading mistakes cause skipped stitches because the thread does not sit in the tension discs or does not reach the take-up lever. The presser foot must be up when you thread because raising it opens the tension discs so the thread can slip between them. If you thread with the foot down, the thread sits on top of the discs instead of between them, and the tension will be wrong.

Remove all thread from the machine and raise the presser foot. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin and guide the thread through each guide and tension point in order. The exact path depends on your machine model, so check your manual for the threading diagram. The thread should pass through the tension discs (you will feel slight resistance), then up through the take-up lever, then down through the needle clamp and into the needle. Make sure the thread is fully seated in the needle eye—it should not be loose or sitting at an angle.

After threading, lower the presser foot and hold both the top thread and bobbin thread for the first few stitches. This prevents the needle from pulling the thread out of position on the first stitch. If you still see skipped stitches after rethreading, move to the bobbin.

Wind and insert the bobbin correctly

A bobbin that is wound unevenly, too loosely, or too tightly will not feed thread at a steady rate, and the needle will miss the bobbin thread on some stitches. Wind the bobbin on your machine's bobbin winder, following the path shown in your manual. The thread should wind in neat, even layers from one end of the bobbin to the other. If the thread bunches on one side or winds too tightly, stop and rewind.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case with the thread wound in the correct direction—usually clockwise when you look at the bobbin from above, but check your manual. The bobbin should drop all the way into the case and sit flat. If it sits at an angle or does not drop fully, it may not be the right size for your machine. Pull the bobbin thread through the tension spring of the bobbin case so you hear a small click or feel the thread catch. The thread should not be loose or wrapped around the case.

Before inserting the bobbin case, clean out any lint or thread bits with a small brush or a lint-free cloth. Lint buildup in the bobbin area creates friction and can prevent the bobbin thread from feeding smoothly. If your machine has a drop-in bobbin (no separate case), straightforward drop the bobbin in and close the cover, making sure the thread passes through the tension guide.

Adjust presser foot pressure if you are sewing thick or thin fabric

The presser foot holds the fabric against the feed dogs so the needle can pierce it at the right depth and angle. If the pressure is too light, the fabric will shift slightly and the needle will miss the bobbin thread. If the pressure is too heavy, thick fabrics will not feed smoothly and the needle may bend.

Most machines have a pressure dial or lever on top or at the back. For standard cotton and woven fabrics, the dial is usually set to the middle or a marked position. If you are sewing very thin fabric like silk or voile, turn the dial down one or two notches. If you are sewing thick fabric like denim or canvas, turn it up one or two notches. Make a test seam on scrap fabric after each adjustment to see if the skipped stitches stop.

If your machine does not have a visible pressure adjustment, it may have an automatic pressure regulator that you cannot adjust yourself. In that case, move to the next step.

Look for lint and damage in the bobbin area

Lint and thread bits collect in the bobbin case and feed dog area over time, especially if you sew a lot or use old thread. This buildup can prevent the bobbin thread from feeding smoothly and cause skipped stitches. Open the bobbin cover (usually by unlatching a small lever or removing a screw) and look inside. You should see the bobbin case, the feed dogs, and the needle plate.

Use a small brush—a soft toothbrush or a dedicated machine brush works well—to gently brush away any lint or thread bits. Do not use a vacuum cleaner because the suction can damage small springs or knock parts out of alignment. Wipe the area with a lint-free cloth. Pay special attention to the tension spring on the bobbin case and the slot where the bobbin case sits. If you see rust or corrosion, do not try to clean it yourself—take the machine to a repair shop.

After cleaning, reinsert the bobbin case, close the cover, and test on scrap fabric. Many machines that skip stitches only need a good cleaning to work properly again.

Test your fix on scrap fabric before sewing your project

After you make any change—new needle, rethreading, bobbin adjustment, or cleaning—test the machine on a piece of scrap fabric that matches the weight of your project fabric. Use the same thread, stitch length, and presser foot you plan to use. Sew a straight seam for at least 4 inches and look at both the top and bottom of the seam. The stitches should be evenly spaced with no gaps or loops.

If skipped stitches still appear, try the next fix on the list. If you have tried all five steps and the problem continues, the machine timing may be off. Machine timing is the synchronization between the needle and the bobbin hook, and it requires professional adjustment. Take the machine to an authorized repair shop with a description of what you have already tried.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can old thread cause skipped stitches?

Yes. Old thread becomes brittle and breaks easily, and it may not feed smoothly through the tension discs. If you have had the same spool of thread for more than a year or two, or if it has been stored in direct sunlight, replace it with fresh thread and test again.

Why do I only get skipped stitches on one side of my seam?

Skipped stitches on only the top side usually mean the bobbin thread is not feeding correctly—check the bobbin winding, insertion, and bobbin case tension. Skipped stitches on only the bottom side usually mean the top thread is not threaded correctly or the needle is bent. Rethread and replace the needle.

Does stitch length affect skipped stitches?

Yes. A very short stitch length can cause skipped stitches on some machines because the needle does not have enough time to catch the bobbin thread between stitches. Try increasing the stitch length to 2.5 mm and test. If that fixes it, your machine may need timing adjustment.

What if I only get skipped stitches when sewing over seams or thick spots?

This usually means the presser foot pressure is too light for the extra fabric thickness. Increase the pressure dial by one or two notches and test. You can also try using a walking foot, which feeds thick layers more evenly than a standard presser foot.

Can humidity affect skipped stitches?

Humidity can cause thread to absorb moisture and swell slightly, which changes how it feeds through the tension discs. If you live in a very humid climate and notice skipped stitches, store your thread in an airtight container with a silica gel packet and make sure your machine is clean and lint-free.