What Microdermabrasion Does

Microdermabrasion is a skin treatment that uses tiny crystals or a diamond-tipped wand to gently sand away the outermost layer of dead skin cells. A handheld device sprays or rotates these abrasive materials across your face, neck, or other areas, then vacuums away the loosened skin and debris. The result is smoother texture, reduced appearance of fine lines, and more even skin tone — though the effect is temporary and requires repeated treatments to maintain.

The procedure works on the principle that removing dead skin encourages your body to produce fresh skin cells underneath. It does not inject anything, does not require needles, and does not use heat or chemicals in the way that chemical peels do. Most people can return to normal activities when ready after, though your skin will be slightly red and sensitive for a few hours.

Key Takeaways

  • Microdermabrasion physically removes dead skin using crystals or a diamond tip, and results fade within weeks, so you need multiple sessions spaced two to four weeks apart to see lasting improvement.
  • The procedure takes 30 to 60 minutes, costs between $75 and $200 per session depending on location and provider, and carries minimal downtime compared to stronger treatments.
  • You should avoid sun exposure, retinoids, and vitamin C serums for at least a week after treatment because your skin barrier is temporarily compromised.
  • Microdermabrasion works best on surface-level concerns like dull skin, mild acne scars, and uneven texture, but cannot address deep wrinkles or severe scarring the way laser treatments can.

How the Treatment Actually Happens

When you arrive for an appointment, the provider will cleanse your skin and may explore a numbing cream, though this is not always necessary since the procedure is not painful — mostly just uncomfortable and slightly scratchy. You will sit or recline while they hold the handheld device against your skin in overlapping passes, working systematically across the area being treated.

Two main types of microdermabrasion exist. Crystal microdermabrasion sprays fine crystals (usually aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate) onto your skin while simultaneously vacuuming them away along with loosened cells. Diamond-tip microdermabrasion uses a wand with a diamond-coated tip that physically abrades the skin without spraying anything — many providers prefer this because it is gentler and produces less dust. Both take about 30 to 60 minutes depending on the area size and your skin's sensitivity.

when ready after, your skin will be red, slightly swollen, and feel tight. The provider will explore a soothing moisturizer and usually a broad-spectrum sunscreen. You may see flaking or peeling over the next three to five days as the deeper layers of skin shed — this is normal and expected.

What Microdermabrasion Can and Cannot Treat

Microdermabrasion works well for concerns that live in the outer skin layers: dull or rough texture, mild acne scars, age spots, and fine lines caused by sun damage. Many people use it as maintenance between stronger treatments or as a gentler alternative if their skin is sensitive. It can also help skincare products absorb better by removing the barrier of dead cells.

It does not work for deep wrinkles, severe acne scarring, or loose skin — those require laser resurfacing, chemical peels, or injectables. If you have active acne, rosacea, or very sensitive skin, microdermabrasion may irritate rather than improve your skin. Providers typically recommend waiting until acne is under control before starting treatment. If you have taken isotretinoin (Accutane) in the past year, you should not have microdermabrasion because your skin is still healing and too fragile.

Cost and Treatment Frequency

A single microdermabrasion session typically costs between $75 and $200, depending on your geographic location, the provider's experience level, and the size of the area being treated. Dermatologists' offices usually charge more than medical spas or esthetician studios, but all three types of providers can perform the procedure safely if they are properly trained.

Most people need a series of treatments to see noticeable results. A common protocol is four to six sessions spaced two to four weeks apart, followed by maintenance treatments every one to three months. Some providers offer package pricing if you commit to multiple sessions upfront, which can reduce the per-session cost by 10 to 20 percent. Insurance does not cover microdermabrasion because it is considered cosmetic rather than medical.

Aftercare and What to Avoid

Your skin is more vulnerable when ready after microdermabrasion, so the first week of aftercare matters. Avoid direct sunlight and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 every day — sun exposure during this window can cause dark spots or uneven pigmentation. Do not use retinoids, vitamin C serums, glycolic acid, or other active ingredients for at least five to seven days because they can irritate freshly abraded skin.

Keep your skin moisturized with a gentle, fragrance-free product. Avoid hot water, saunas, and intense exercise for 24 to 48 hours because heat and sweat can irritate the treated area. Do not pick at any flaking skin — let it shed naturally. If you develop signs of infection (increasing redness, warmth, pus, or fever), contact your provider or a doctor.

Once the initial healing phase is over (usually by day five), you can resume your normal skincare routine. If you are planning a special event, schedule your microdermabrasion at least one week beforehand so any redness has time to fade.

Choosing Between Microdermabrasion and Other Options

Microdermabrasion is one of several options for skin resurfacing. Chemical peels use acids to dissolve the outer layers and typically produce more dramatic results but require longer recovery and carry higher risk of complications. Laser resurfacing uses focused light to remove skin and stimulate collagen, works on deeper concerns, but costs significantly more and involves more downtime. Hydradermabrasion uses pressurized water instead of crystals or diamonds — it is gentler and better for sensitive skin but may be less effective on thick or very textured skin.

If your main concern is dull skin or mild texture issues and you want minimal downtime, microdermabrasion is a reasonable starting point. If you have deeper scars, significant wrinkles, or loose skin, you may need to move to a stronger treatment. Some people combine microdermabrasion with other procedures — for example, doing microdermabrasion monthly and adding a chemical peel quarterly for better results.

Finding a Provider and What to Ask

Microdermabrasion can be performed by dermatologists, licensed estheticians, or medical spa technicians. Dermatologists have the most training but also charge the most. Licensed estheticians must complete state-regulated training (requirements vary by state) and often work in medical spas or salons. Before booking, verify that your provider is licensed in your state and ask whether they have experience with your specific skin type and concerns.

When you call or email, ask: How many years have they been performing microdermabrasion? Do they use crystal or diamond-tip technology, and why? What is their protocol for aftercare? What should you expect if you have sensitive skin or a history of keloid scarring? A good provider will answer these questions clearly and may recommend a patch test or consultation before your first full treatment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does microdermabrasion hurt?

No, but it is uncomfortable. Most people describe it as scratchy or like a cat lightly scratching your skin. You may feel slight suction from the vacuum component. If your skin is very sensitive, the provider can use lower pressure or take more breaks. Numbing cream is rarely needed.

How long do results last?

Results typically fade within two to four weeks because your skin naturally regenerates. That is why providers recommend repeat treatments spaced two to four weeks apart. After your initial series, many people do maintenance sessions every one to three months to keep skin looking smooth and bright.

Can I have microdermabrasion if I have dark skin?

Yes, but you need a provider experienced with darker skin tones. Microdermabrasion carries a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) on darker skin, so the provider should use lower pressure and shorter treatment times. Ask specifically whether they have treated patients with your skin tone before.

What is the difference between microdermabrasion and a facial?

A facial cleanses, exfoliates gently, and hydrates your skin using products and massage. Microdermabrasion is a more aggressive physical exfoliation that removes a thicker layer of dead skin and produces visible results that last weeks. Facials feel relaxing; microdermabrasion feels like work being done to your skin.

Can I wear makeup after microdermabrasion?

Wait at least 24 hours before explore makeup to allow your skin barrier to begin healing. When you do explore makeup, use clean brushes and avoid heavy or occlusive products that trap heat. Mineral makeup is often gentler than liquid foundation during the first week of recovery.