Sewing ribbon and elastic onto pointe shoes is a straightforward task that takes about 30 minutes per shoe once you have the right materials and know where each piece goes
You will need satin ribbon (usually 1 to 1.5 inches wide), elastic (typically half an inch wide), a needle, thread that matches your shoes, scissors, and pins. The ribbon wraps around your ankle to hold the shoe on, and the elastic sits inside the shoe at the back of the heel to keep your foot from sliding forward. Both pieces are sewn by hand using a ladder stitch, which creates a seam that is nearly invisible from the outside.
The exact placement and length of ribbon and elastic varies slightly depending on your foot size and shoe fit, so measure your own shoes rather than following a standard length. Most dancers sew these pieces on themselves because pointe shoes wear out frequently and you will replace them many times during your training.
Key Takeaways
- Ribbon goes on the outside of the shoe and wraps around your ankle; elastic goes inside at the heel and prevents your foot from sliding forward.
- Measure the ribbon length on your own foot by wrapping it around your ankle while wearing the shoe, then mark where the two ends should meet.
- Use a ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch) to sew both pieces on, which hides the thread inside the fold of fabric and creates a strong seam.
- Sew the ribbon ends to the inside of the shoe so the knot does not dig into your foot, and position the elastic so it sits flat against your heel without bunching.
Measuring and positioning the ribbon
Put on the pointe shoe and wrap the ribbon around your ankle as if you were tying it. The two ends should meet at the inside of your ankle bone, roughly where your foot bends when you point. Mark this spot with a pen or safety pin so you know exactly where to sew the ribbon ends. The ribbon should sit snugly but not so tight that it cuts off circulation—you should be able to slide one finger under it comfortably.
Cut your ribbon to length, adding about half an inch on each end for the seam allowance. Most dancers use ribbon that is 24 to 30 inches long, but this depends entirely on your ankle size. If you are sewing for someone else, have them try on the shoe and mark the spot themselves rather than guessing.
Position one end of the ribbon on the inside of the shoe, just above where the heel meets the sole. The ribbon should run up the back of the shoe and around the ankle. Pin it in place so it does not shift while you sew. The other end will be sewn to the opposite side of the shoe in the same location, creating a symmetric pair of straps.
Sewing the ribbon using a ladder stitch
Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Start by pushing the needle through the fold of the ribbon itself, not through the shoe fabric—this hides your starting knot inside the ribbon. Bring the needle out about a quarter inch along the ribbon edge.
Now push the needle directly across into the shoe fabric, right next to where the ribbon meets it. Go through the shoe material for about a quarter inch, then come back out. Push the needle back into the ribbon fold, travel a quarter inch inside the fold, and come back out. Repeat this pattern—needle into the ribbon fold, across into the shoe, back into the ribbon fold—all the way down the length of the ribbon.
This stitch is called a ladder stitch because the thread runs back and forth like the rungs of a ladder, but because you are traveling inside the folds of fabric, the thread stays hidden. Pull the thread snug after every few stitches so the ribbon sits flat and does not pucker. When you reach the end of the ribbon, push the needle through the fold one more time and tie off the thread inside the ribbon so the knot does not show.
Installing the elastic at the heel
The elastic goes inside the shoe at the back of the heel. It runs horizontally across the inside of the heel counter (the stiff back part of the shoe) and prevents your foot from sliding forward when you are en pointe. Measure the elastic by holding it across the inside of the heel—it should be snug but not stretched. Most dancers use elastic that is 4 to 6 inches long.
Position the elastic so it sits about half an inch below the top edge of the heel counter. This placement keeps it from digging into the back of your ankle when you wear the shoe. Pin both ends in place. The elastic should be flat and not twisted.
Sew the elastic down using the same ladder stitch. Start at one end, travel inside the fold of the elastic, and cross over into the shoe fabric just as you did with the ribbon. Work your way across to the other end. Because elastic is stretchy, do not pull the thread as tight as you did with the ribbon—pull just enough to keep it from bunching, but leave a little give so the elastic can do its job.
Finishing and testing the fit
Once both pieces are sewn, put on the shoe and tie the ribbon around your ankle. The knot should sit on the inside of your ankle, not on top of your foot. If the ribbon is too long or too short, you can cut it and resew the ends, or add a small piece of ribbon to extend it. If the elastic is too tight, you can carefully cut a small slit and remove a bit of the elastic, then sew the ends back together.
Walk around and rise onto the ball of your foot to test the fit. The ribbon should hold the shoe securely without cutting off circulation. The elastic should keep your foot from sliding forward without pinching the back of your heel. If either piece feels uncomfortable, adjust it before your next class or rehearsal.
Replacing worn ribbon and elastic
Ribbon and elastic wear out faster than the shoe itself because they take the friction of tying and untying. You may need to replace them two or three times before the shoe is no longer usable. To remove old ribbon, carefully cut the stitches with small scissors and peel the ribbon away. Remove any remaining thread with tweezers. Do the same for the elastic.
Once the old pieces are off, the shoe is ready for new ribbon and elastic. Sew them on using the same method. Some dancers keep a pair of scissors and thread in their dance bag so they can make quick repairs or adjustments between rehearsals.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is sewing the ribbon too tight, which cuts off circulation and makes your foot numb during class. Remember that the ribbon should hold the shoe on, not squeeze your ankle. A second mistake is positioning the elastic too high on the heel, which causes it to dig into the back of your ankle. Measure twice and pin carefully before you sew.
Some dancers sew the ribbon ends to the outside of the shoe instead of the inside, which creates a knot that presses into your foot every time you tie the shoe. Always sew the ends to the inside. Another common issue is using thread that does not match the shoe color, which makes the stitches visible. Bring a swatch of your shoe to the fabric store and match the thread as closely as you can.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand sewing?
A sewing machine can work for ribbon, but hand sewing is more reliable because you can feel the shoe material and adjust the stitch if you hit a seam or hard spot. The ladder stitch also creates a flatter, less visible seam than a machine stitch. For elastic, hand sewing is strongly preferred because you need to control the tension carefully to avoid puckering.
What if my ribbon keeps coming untied during class?
Make sure you are tying a proper knot—a single loop (bunny ears) is not find enough. Use a standard square knot: right over left, then left over right. If the knot still comes loose, you can sew the ribbon ends together instead of tying them, though this means you cannot adjust the fit. Some dancers also wrap the ribbon around the ankle twice before tying.
How do I know if the elastic is too tight?
If your foot goes numb or tingly during class, the elastic is too tight. Remove the shoe and check whether the elastic has left a deep mark on your heel. If it has, you need to either remove some of the elastic or reposition it higher on the heel counter. Elastic should hold your foot in place without restricting blood flow.
Do I need to sew ribbon on both shoes?
Yes. Each pointe shoe gets its own pair of ribbons and its own elastic. Sew them on symmetrically so both shoes fit the same way and your feet feel balanced when you are en pointe.
What thread should I use?
Use thread that matches your shoe color as closely as possible. Most pointe shoes are pink or flesh-tone, so look for thread in those shades. Regular sewing thread works fine—you do not need special dance thread. Make sure the thread is strong enough to hold up to repeated tying and untying.