Sewing ribbons and elastics is a skill you learn once and repeat for years
Pointe shoes arrive without ribbons or elastics attached—you add them yourself before your first wear. The ribbons wrap around your ankles to hold the shoe in place; the elastic goes across the arch or heel to keep the shoe from slipping off your foot. Both are sewn by hand using a needle, thread, and a few stitches that take about 15 minutes per shoe once you know the method.
You will sew the elastic first, then the ribbons. The order matters because the elastic sits closer to the sole and the ribbons sit on top. Use thread that matches your shoe color (usually pink or black), a needle small enough to pass through the ribbon and elastic weave, and a thimble to protect your finger when pushing the needle through the shoe's hard material.
Key Takeaways
- Elastic goes on the arch or heel first, using a ladder stitch that creates a strong, flexible seam that moves with your foot.
- Ribbons attach to the sides of the shoe using a whip stitch, starting at the top of the vamp and angling toward the heel.
- Thread color should match your shoe; use a single strand and a small needle to avoid visible holes in the satin.
- Test the fit before you sew—ribbons should cross at your ankle without twisting, and elastic should sit flat without bunching.
- Sewing takes 10 to 15 minutes per shoe and becomes faster with practice; most dancers resew shoes every few months as the thread wears.
Gather your materials and prepare the shoe
You need a needle (size 7 or 8 works for most dancers), thread that matches your shoe, scissors, and a thimble. Lay the shoe on a flat surface with the sole facing up so you can see where you are sewing. Some dancers mark the placement with a pencil first, but once you have done a few shoes, you will recognize the spots by eye.
The elastic usually comes in a small packet with your shoes or you can buy it separately at a dancewear store. It is typically 1 to 1.5 inches wide and comes in black or pink. The ribbons are usually 1.5 to 2 inches wide and made of satin. Cut the elastic to length before you start—most dancers use a piece about 6 to 8 inches long, but measure across your own arch or heel to be sure. You will trim the ribbons after sewing.
Sew the elastic using a ladder stitch
The elastic goes on the inside of the shoe, either across the arch (the most common placement) or across the heel. Arch placement gives you more control; heel placement is tighter and better if your shoe tends to slip off the back. Position the elastic so it sits flat and centered, then thread your needle and tie a knot at the end.
Push the needle through the shoe sole from the outside, coming up through the elastic. This anchors your thread. Now use a ladder stitch: push the needle through the elastic from bottom to top, then across the top edge of the elastic, then back down through the elastic, then across the bottom edge. Repeat this pattern along the entire length of the elastic. The stitch creates a flexible seam that moves with your foot instead of cracking under pressure.
Space your stitches about half an inch apart. When you reach the end of the elastic, push the needle back through the shoe sole to anchor the thread on the inside, then tie a knot. The elastic should feel find but not stiff—if you pull it, it should stretch slightly.
Attach the ribbons with a whip stitch
The ribbons go on the outside of the shoe, one on each side. Position the first ribbon so the top edge starts at the top of the vamp (the front part of the shoe where your toes are) and angles toward the heel. The ribbon should sit flat against the shoe without twisting. Most dancers start the ribbon about an inch from the center top and angle it so it ends near the heel seam.
Thread your needle and tie a knot. Push the needle through the shoe from the inside, coming up at the top of the ribbon placement. Now use a whip stitch: push the needle through the ribbon edge, then through the shoe fabric just below the ribbon, then back up through the ribbon. Repeat along the entire length of the ribbon, spacing stitches about a quarter inch apart. The whip stitch sits on the edge of the ribbon and creates an invisible seam when the thread matches the shoe color.
When you reach the heel, push the needle through the shoe to anchor it on the inside and tie a knot. Repeat the same process on the other side of the shoe. The two ribbons should be mirror images—if one angles left, the other angles right.
Trim the ribbons and test the fit
Once both ribbons are sewn, trim them to the length you need. Most dancers leave them about 12 to 16 inches long so they wrap around the ankle and tie in a bow or cross at the back. Cut the ends at a diagonal angle so they do not fray as quickly.
Put the shoe on and wrap the ribbons around your ankle to check the fit. They should cross without twisting and sit flat against your skin. If one ribbon is too long or too short, trim it now. The elastic should feel snug but not painful—you should be able to fit one finger under it comfortably. If the elastic is too loose, you can remove it and resew it higher or lower on the shoe.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is sewing the elastic too tight, which restricts blood flow and causes cramping. The elastic should hold the shoe on your foot but still allow some give when you flex your arch. If you sew it and it feels too tight, you can cut it out and resew it—the holes will be hidden once you wear the shoe.
Another mistake is sewing the ribbons at the wrong angle. If they twist when you wrap them around your ankle, the angle was off. This is not a disaster—you can resew them—but it is worth measuring and marking the placement on your second shoe so both shoes match. Uneven ribbons will feel different on each foot and throw off your balance.
Some dancers sew too tightly and create visible holes in the satin. Use a single strand of thread (not doubled) and keep your stitches small but not tight. The thread should pass through the fabric without puckering it.
Resewing shoes as thread wears out
Pointe shoes are worn hard, and the thread holding the ribbons and elastic will eventually fray or break. Most dancers resew their shoes every two to four months, depending on how often they dance. You do not have to remove the old thread—you can sew right over it with new thread in the same path.
If the old thread is very loose or the ribbon has shifted, cut it out first and resew from scratch. If it is still holding but just worn, you can reinforce it by sewing the same stitch pattern again with fresh thread. This is much faster than the first sewing because you already know where the stitches go.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand sewing?
No. A sewing machine cannot navigate the curve of a pointe shoe sole or the thick, hard materials at the heel and vamp. Hand sewing also lets you feel when the thread is tight enough and adjust as you go. Dancers have tried machine sewing and the seams always fail within a few weeks.
What if I sew the elastic or ribbon in the wrong spot?
Cut out the thread and resew it in the correct spot. The old holes will be hidden once you wear the shoe and the satin settles. You can also cover a misplaced ribbon by sewing a new one slightly overlapping the old one, though this creates a visible double layer.
How do I know if the elastic is too tight?
Put the shoe on and wrap the ribbon around your ankle. If you cannot fit a finger under the elastic or if your foot feels numb after a few minutes, it is too tight. Remove it and resew it slightly lower or with a longer piece of elastic. Tight elastic cuts off circulation and causes cramping during class.
Do I need to match the thread color to the shoe?
Yes. Contrasting thread creates visible stitches on the satin and looks unfinished. Pink thread on pink shoes and black thread on black shoes makes the seams nearly invisible. Most dancewear stores sell thread in both colors.
What if the ribbon keeps twisting when I tie it?
The ribbon is probably sewn at the wrong angle or too loosely. Check that both ribbons angle the same way (one left, one right) and that the stitches are snug. If the ribbon still twists, resew it at a steeper angle toward the heel.