What You Need to Know Before You Start
A Maytag dryer belt typically lasts three to five years before it wears out and stops turning the drum. When the belt breaks, your dryer will still heat but the drum won't rotate, so clothes won't dry. Replacing it yourself takes about 45 minutes to an hour and costs $30 to $75 for the belt alone—far less than a service call.
The process is straightforward: you'll unplug the dryer, remove the front panel or top, take out the old belt, and thread a new one around the drum and idler pulley. Most Maytag dryers follow the same basic layout, though the exact steps depend on whether your model has a removable front panel or a hinged top. Check your model number (usually on a sticker inside the door frame) before you buy a replacement belt to make sure you get the right part.
Key Takeaways
- Always unplug the dryer before you begin work, and wait at least 30 minutes for internal components to cool.
- You will need a replacement belt specific to your Maytag model number, a Phillips screwdriver, and a putty knife or flathead screwdriver to pry off the front panel.
- The belt wraps around the drum, under the idler pulley, and around the motor pulley in a specific path—take a photo before removing the old belt so you can thread the new one correctly.
- If the idler pulley or drum rollers feel rough or damaged while you have the panel open, replace them at the same time to avoid a second repair soon after.
Gather Your Tools and the Right Replacement Belt
Before you touch the dryer, order the correct belt. Write down your Maytag model number and search for "Maytag [model number] dryer belt" on the manufacturer's website or a parts retailer like Sears Parts Direct or AppliancePartsPros. The belt part number matters—a belt for a gas dryer is different from one for an electric model, and different Maytag lines use different sizes.
While you wait for the belt to arrive, gather a Phillips screwdriver, a putty knife or old flathead screwdriver (for prying), a flashlight, and a small container to hold screws so you don't lose them. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges inside the cabinet. Have your phone or camera ready to take a photo of the belt path before you remove the old one.
Unplug the Dryer and Let It Cool
Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. If your dryer is gas-powered, also turn off the gas valve at the wall. Wait at least 30 minutes before opening the cabinet—the interior can stay hot enough to burn your hands even after the dryer has been off.
Once it has cooled, move the dryer away from the wall if possible so you have room to work. You do not need to disconnect the vent hose or gas line unless your model requires it to access the front panel; check your manual first.
Remove the Front Panel or Top
Most Maytag dryers have a removable front panel held on by screws along the bottom edge and sometimes along the sides. Open the door and look underneath the lint trap opening—you will usually see two to four screws. Remove them and set them aside in your container.
Gently pull the bottom of the front panel toward you, then lift it up and away from the dryer. If it does not come free easily, check for hidden screws along the sides or under the top edge. Once the panel is off, you will see the drum, the belt wrapped around it, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley.
If your Maytag has a hinged top instead of a removable front panel, open the top and look for screws holding the front panel in place from the inside. Remove those screws and lift the panel off. The layout inside is the same.
Take a Photo and Remove the Old Belt
Before you touch anything, use your phone to photograph the belt path—how it wraps around the drum, under the idler pulley, and around the motor pulley. This photo will be your guide when you thread the new belt.
Reach behind the drum and locate the idler pulley, a small wheel that keeps tension on the belt. Push it toward the motor to release tension on the belt. The old belt should now slide off the drum easily. Pull it out completely and set it aside.
While you have the panel open, spin the idler pulley by hand. It should turn smoothly and quietly. If it feels rough, gritty, or does not spin freely, replace it now—a worn idler pulley will wear out your new belt in a few months. The same goes for the drum rollers (small wheels that support the drum); if they feel damaged or rough, order replacements and install them before you put the new belt on.
Thread the New Belt Around the Drum and Pulleys
Take your new belt and look at your photo to see the correct path. Start by draping the belt over the top of the drum, then guide it under the idler pulley and around the motor pulley at the bottom. The belt should sit in the grooves of both pulleys, not on top of them.
Once the belt is in place, push the idler pulley away from the motor to create tension. The belt should feel snug but not so tight that you cannot move it slightly by hand. If the belt is too loose, the drum will slip; if it is too tight, it will wear out quickly and may damage the motor.
Double-check the path against your photo. The belt should make a smooth loop with no twists. If it looks wrong, remove it and try again—it is easier to fix now than to discover the problem after you have reassembled the dryer.
Reassemble the Dryer and Test It
Slide the front panel back into place and find it with the screws you removed earlier. Tighten them firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack the plastic. Make sure the panel sits flush against the cabinet with no gaps.
Plug the dryer back in (and turn the gas valve back on if you have a gas model). Close the door and run the dryer on a short cycle with no clothes inside. Listen for any squeaking or grinding sounds, and watch to make sure the drum rotates smoothly. If the drum does not turn, unplug the dryer when ready and check that the belt is threaded correctly.
If everything sounds and looks normal, run a full drying cycle with a damp towel inside to confirm the dryer heats and dries properly. The new belt should last three to five years with normal use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the drum does not turn after I put the new belt on?
The belt is likely threaded incorrectly or is too loose. Unplug the dryer, remove the front panel again, and compare the belt path to your photo. Make sure the belt sits in the grooves of both pulleys, not on top of them. If the belt is loose, push the idler pulley farther away from the motor to increase tension.
Can I replace just the belt, or do I need to replace the idler pulley too?
You can replace just the belt if the idler pulley spins smoothly and feels normal. However, if the pulley feels rough, gritty, or does not spin freely, replace it at the same time. A worn idler pulley will wear out your new belt much faster, so it is worth replacing both if there is any doubt.
How do I know if my dryer belt is actually broken?
If the dryer heats but the drum does not turn, the belt is broken or has slipped off. You can also open the front panel and look at the belt—a broken belt will have a visible crack or will be missing pieces. If the belt looks intact but the drum still does not turn, the problem may be the idler pulley or motor, not the belt.
Do I need to remove the drum to replace the belt?
No. On most Maytag dryers, you can remove and install the belt without taking the drum out. The drum stays in place while you work around it. If your model requires drum removal, your manual will say so—this is uncommon on Maytag dryers.
What if I cannot get the front panel off?
Check for hidden screws along the top edge, sides, or under the lint trap opening. If you still cannot find them, consult your manual or search for a video specific to your model number. Do not force the panel—forcing it can crack the plastic and make the problem worse.