You can replace a lawn mower pull string yourself with basic tools and about half an hour
A broken or frayed pull string (also called a starter cord or recoil cord) stops your mower from starting, but you do not need a repair shop to fix it. The job involves removing the recoil housing, unwinding the old cord, winding a new one, and reassembling—all with tools you likely have at home. Most mowers use the same basic design, whether gas or electric, and the cord itself costs between $5 and $15.
The hardest part is not the replacement itself but getting the spring tension right when you wind the new cord. This guide walks you through each step in order, shows you where the spring lives, and explains the one mistake that causes people to redo the job.
Key Takeaways
- You will need a replacement cord (usually nylon, 3 to 5 millimeters thick), a screwdriver, pliers, and a socket wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the recoil housing.
- The recoil housing bolts to the top or side of the engine and contains a spring under tension, so take a photo before you disassemble anything.
- Wind the new cord in the same direction as the old one, keeping tension on the spring the entire time, or the cord will not retract properly.
- The knot at the end of the cord must sit in the housing groove, not the handle knot—using the wrong knot is the most common reason people have to start over.
- Test the cord by pulling it slowly three times before you reassemble the housing completely, so you can catch problems while the parts are still loose.
Gather your tools and materials before you start
You will need a replacement pull cord, which you can order online or buy at any hardware store or big-box retailer. Bring the mower model number (usually on a sticker near the engine) to the store, or order a universal cord in the size that fits your mower—most use 3 to 5 millimeters in diameter. You will also need a screwdriver (usually Phillips head), pliers, and a socket wrench or adjustable wrench that fits the bolts holding the recoil housing.
Before you touch anything, take a clear photo of the recoil housing from the side and top. This photo is your map for reassembly and shows you exactly how the spring sits and which direction the cord winds. Set the mower on a flat surface and make sure the engine is cold—never work on a hot engine.
Remove the recoil housing from the engine
The recoil housing is the plastic or metal box bolted to the top or side of the engine. It usually has two to four bolts holding it in place. Use your wrench to remove each bolt and set them in a small cup or container so you do not lose them. Once all bolts are out, gently pull the housing straight up and away from the engine—do not twist it, because the spring inside is still under tension.
Place the housing on a clean, flat surface with the spring side facing up. You will see a metal or plastic spool in the center with the old cord wound around it. The spring sits underneath or beside the spool, usually held in place by a small hook or clip. Do not remove the spring yet—you will need it to stay in place while you wind the new cord.
Unwind the old cord and prepare the spool
Use your pliers to carefully unwind the old cord from the spool. If the cord is stuck or frayed, work slowly and do not pull hard—you are just removing it, not fighting it. Once the cord is off, look at the spool and note which direction it was wound. This matters: you must wind the new cord in the same direction, or the recoil mechanism will not work.
Check the spool for any cracks, splinters, or damage. If the spool is cracked or the groove is worn smooth, the new cord will slip and you will have the same problem again. Most spools are replaceable as a unit, but if yours is damaged, order a replacement spool along with the cord. If the spool is fine, you are ready to wind the new cord.
Wind the new cord onto the spool with proper tension
This is the step that determines whether your repair works. Tie a straightforward overhand knot at one end of the new cord and place that knot in the small groove or notch on the spool—this is where the cord anchors. Do not tie the knot at the handle end yet; that comes later. Hold the spool steady with one hand and begin winding the cord around it in the same direction as the old cord went, keeping steady tension on the cord as you wind.
Wind slowly and deliberately, making sure each loop sits neatly next to the previous one without overlapping. Keep your hand on the cord to maintain tension the entire time—this tension is what allows the spring to pull the cord back in. Wind until you have about 12 to 18 inches of cord left unwound (this becomes your handle). The exact amount depends on your mower model, so check your photo to see how much handle the old cord had.
Once the cord is wound, tie a straightforward overhand knot at the free end. This knot sits in your hand when you pull the cord to start the mower. Pull the cord slowly three times to test the recoil—it should come out smoothly and snap back quickly. If it does not snap back or feels stuck, unwind it and try again, making sure you wound in the correct direction and kept tension throughout.
Reassemble the housing and test the full mechanism
Once the cord retracts smoothly, you are ready to bolt the housing back onto the engine. Align the housing with the bolt holes and insert each bolt by hand first, then tighten them with your wrench. Do not over-tighten—snug is enough. Once all bolts are tight, pull the cord three more times to make sure it still works with the housing in place.
If the cord does not retract or feels tight, stop and remove the housing again. The most common cause is winding in the wrong direction or losing tension while winding. Unwind, check your photo, and try again. Once the cord pulls and retracts smoothly, your repair is complete and your mower is ready to start.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most frequent error is winding the cord in the wrong direction. Your photo prevents this—compare the direction of your new wind to the direction in the photo before you finish. Another common mistake is tying the handle knot too large or in the wrong place. The handle knot should be small enough to fit comfortably in your hand, and it should sit at the end of the cord, not buried in the housing.
A third mistake is losing spring tension while winding. If you let go of the cord or the spool, the spring can unwind and you will have to start over. Keep one hand on the cord at all times. Finally, some people reassemble the housing before testing the cord. Always test with the housing off and loose—it is much easier to unwind and try again when the bolts are not in the way.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size pull cord do I need?
Most lawn mowers use cord between 3 and 5 millimeters in diameter. Check your mower manual or bring the model number to a hardware store—staff can tell you the exact size. Universal replacement kits come in common sizes and usually include extra cord, so you can cut the length you need.
Can I use any type of rope or cord?
No. Lawn mower pull cords are made from nylon or polypropylene and are designed to withstand repeated pulling and heat from the engine. Regular rope, clothesline, or twine will fray, break, or melt. Use a cord sold specifically for lawn mower replacement.
What if the spring is broken or missing?
If the spring is cracked, rusted, or missing, the recoil housing will not work no matter how well you wind the cord. You will need to replace the entire recoil housing as a unit. Order one for your mower model and follow the same bolt-removal steps, then install the new housing in reverse.
How tight should I wind the cord?
Wind it firmly enough that each loop stays in place and does not slip, but not so tight that you strain the spring. You should be able to wind it with steady hand pressure—if you need to use pliers or force, you are winding too tight. The spring does the work of retracting; the cord just needs to stay in place.
Why does my cord not retract all the way?
This usually means you wound in the wrong direction or lost tension while winding. Unwind the cord completely, check your photo to confirm the direction, and wind again while keeping steady tension on the cord the entire time. If the cord still does not retract, the spring may be weak or broken and the housing may need replacement.