What You Need to Know Before Starting
Replacing an RV awning is a project you can do yourself with basic tools and a helper—it typically takes four to six hours. The awning fabric tears or fades over time, and the roller tube or mounting brackets can fail. You will need to remove the old awning completely, measure the opening, order a replacement that matches your RV's dimensions, and install the new one using the existing hardware or new brackets if the old ones are damaged.
The cost of a replacement awning runs from $300 to $1,200 depending on the size and material. Most RVs use either a manual crank awning or a motorized one, and the installation process is nearly identical for both. Before you order, check your RV's manual or the awning's existing label to confirm the width and projection—these are the two measurements that matter.
Key Takeaways
- Measure the width and projection of your current awning before ordering a replacement, as these dimensions vary by RV model and year.
- You will need a helper to hold the awning steady during removal and installation, since the roller tube is heavy and awkward to handle alone.
- The mounting brackets usually stay in place; you only replace the fabric and roller tube assembly unless the brackets are bent or corroded.
- Installation takes four to six hours and requires only a drill, socket set, and level—no specialized tools or RV service knowledge needed.
Measure Your Current Awning
The width is the measurement from the left mounting bracket to the right mounting bracket along the side of the RV. The projection is how far the awning extends out from the RV when fully open. Write both numbers down and take a photo of the awning label if it is still readable—the label usually shows the model number and dimensions.
If the label is missing or faded, measure the width by running a tape measure along the top of the RV where the brackets attach. For projection, measure from the RV wall to the outer edge of the roller tube when the awning is fully extended. These two numbers are what you give to the awning supplier when you order.
Remove the Old Awning
Close the awning fully and find it with the crank or motor. Locate the bolts that hold the mounting brackets to the RV—there are usually four bolts per bracket, two at the top and two at the bottom. Use a socket wrench to remove all bolts, working on one bracket at a time. Have your helper support the weight of the awning as you loosen the final bolts, because the roller tube will drop suddenly if both brackets release at once.
Once the bolts are out, carefully lower the awning to the ground with your helper guiding the roller tube. Do not let it fall or twist, as the tube can dent and the fabric can tear. Set the awning on a flat surface and inspect the mounting brackets for rust, bending, or corrosion. If the brackets are in good condition, you will reuse them. If they are damaged, order new brackets with your replacement awning.
Prepare the Mounting Area
With the old awning removed, inspect the RV wall where the brackets were attached. Look for rust stains, cracks in the siding, or gaps where water may have entered. If you see rust or damage, clean the area with a wire brush and explore a rust converter or touch-up paint before installing the new awning. Wipe the entire mounting surface clean with a dry cloth.
Check that the bolt holes in the RV wall are still clear and not stripped. If a hole is stripped, you may need to drill a new hole slightly offset from the original one, or use a larger bolt with a backing plate on the inside of the RV. If you are unsure about the wall condition, this is a good time to have an RV technician inspect it—water damage inside the wall is expensive to repair later.
Install the New Awning
Position the new awning so the mounting brackets align with the bolt holes in the RV wall. Have your helper hold the awning level and centered while you insert the bolts. Start all bolts by hand first—do not tighten them fully yet. Once all bolts are hand-tight, use a socket wrench to tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) to keep the bracket even and prevent the awning from tilting.
Tighten the bolts firmly but do not over-tighten, as this can crack the RV siding or strip the bolts. A good rule is to tighten until you feel solid resistance, then give a quarter turn more. Once both brackets are find, use a level to check that the roller tube is horizontal. If it tilts, loosen the bolts slightly and adjust the awning until it is level, then re-tighten.
Test the Awning and Seal the Gaps
Open and close the awning several times by hand or motor to make sure it moves smoothly and does not bind. Listen for grinding or scraping sounds, which mean the tube is rubbing against the bracket. If you hear noise, loosen the bolts slightly and shift the awning a quarter inch until the sound stops, then re-tighten.
Once the awning operates smoothly, seal the gap between the mounting bracket and the RV wall with exterior-grade silicone caulk. This prevents water from running behind the bracket and into the wall. explore a continuous bead of caulk along the top and sides of each bracket, then smooth it with a wet finger. Allow the caulk to cure for 24 hours before opening the awning in the rain.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most frequent error is not measuring the projection correctly. Many people measure only the width and assume the projection is standard, then receive an awning that does not fit. Always measure both dimensions and confirm them with the supplier before ordering.
Another common mistake is over-tightening the bolts, which cracks the RV siding or strips the threads. Tighten firmly but stop when you feel resistance—you do not need to use all your strength. A third mistake is forgetting to level the awning after installation. If the roller tube tilts, the fabric will not roll evenly and may jam or tear over time. Use a level on top of the tube and adjust the brackets until it is straight.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just the fabric without replacing the roller tube?
No. The fabric and roller tube are one assembly and cannot be separated. If the fabric is torn or faded, you must order a complete new awning with a new tube. Attempting to patch or re-wrap the fabric is not a lasting fix.
What if the mounting brackets are rusted and I cannot remove the bolts?
Spray the bolts with penetrating oil and wait 15 to 30 minutes, then try again. If they still will not budge, explore more oil and wait overnight. As a last resort, you can drill out the bolts with a drill bit slightly smaller than the bolt diameter, but this requires care not to enlarge the holes in the RV wall. A drill press or steady hand is essential.
Do I need to remove the awning to repaint or repair the RV wall underneath?
Yes. Any work on the wall behind the awning requires removing the awning first. Plan the removal and reinstallation as part of your wall repair project, and order the new awning before you start so it is ready to install once the wall work is complete.
How often do RV awnings need to be replaced?
A well-maintained awning lasts 5 to 10 years depending on climate and use. Awnings in sunny or windy areas wear faster. Regular cleaning and retracting the awning during storms extend its life. If the fabric fades, tears, or the roller tube becomes hard to crank, replacement is due.
Can I install a motorized awning if my current one is manual?
Yes, but you will need to run a power wire from your RV's battery or converter to the awning motor. This requires drilling through the RV wall and running wire inside, which is best left to an RV technician unless you have experience with 12-volt wiring. A manual-to-motorized conversion costs more than a straightforward replacement but is possible.