How to Replace a Shower Head and Arm in Your Bathroom

What You Need to Know Before Starting

Replacing a shower head and arm is a straightforward plumbing task that takes about 30 minutes and requires only basic tools you likely already own. The shower head unscrews by hand or with a wrench, and the arm (the pipe that sticks out from the wall) comes out with an adjustable wrench. You do not need to turn off the water to the whole house—the shower will straightforward drip when you remove the old arm, and you can plug the hole with a rag while you work.

The main decision is whether to replace just the head, just the arm, or both. Most people replace only the head because it gets worn, corroded, or clogged over time. The arm stays in place unless it is leaking, bent, or you want to change the angle or height where the water comes out. If the arm is leaking at the wall or dripping from the threads, replacement is necessary. If it is just the head that is the problem, you can leave the arm alone and save yourself 10 minutes of work.

Key Takeaways

A shower head unscrews by hand or with a pipe wrench; wrap the connection with a rag first to protect the chrome finish.
The shower arm requires an adjustable wrench and comes out by turning counterclockwise; water will drip from the wall hole, so have a bucket or towel ready.
New arms come with a flange (the flat plate that covers the wall hole) and must be sealed with plumber's tape and pipe dope to prevent leaks inside the wall.
Shower heads screw on by hand; do not use a wrench on the new head or you risk cracking the internal parts.
The whole job takes 20 to 30 minutes and costs between $15 and $60 depending on whether you replace the head, the arm, or both.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Gather these items before you start so you do not have to stop halfway through. For removing the old head and arm, you need an adjustable wrench (sometimes called a crescent wrench), a pipe wrench if you have one, and a rag or old towel. A bucket or shallow pan catches drips when you remove the arm. A flathead screwdriver helps pry off the flange (the decorative plate) if it is stuck.

For installing the new arm, you need plumber's tape (also called PTFE tape or Teflon tape), which costs about $3 and comes in a small roll. You also need pipe dope or plumber's putty—pipe dope is a thick paste that seals threaded connections and costs $4 to $8 per tube. Do not skip these; they prevent leaks inside the wall where you cannot see them. If you are replacing only the head, you need nothing but the new head itself.

Removing the Old Shower Head

Start by wrapping a rag around the connection where the head meets the arm. This protects the chrome or brushed finish from scratches when you use the wrench. Grip the arm with one hand to hold it steady, then turn the head counterclockwise with the wrench. Most heads unscrew easily; if it is stuck, spray the connection with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 10 minutes before trying again.

Once the head is off, you will see the threaded end of the arm and possibly some old tape or putty. Wipe away any loose debris with the rag. If you are replacing only the head, stop here and move to the installation section. If you are also replacing the arm, continue to the next step.

Removing the Old Shower Arm

Place your bucket or pan under the wall hole to catch water that will drip out. Using the adjustable wrench, grip the arm close to the wall and turn it counterclockwise. The arm will come out slowly; keep turning until it is completely free. Water will drip from the hole in the wall—this is normal and expected. Stuff a rag into the hole to slow the drip while you work.

Once the arm is out, you will see the threaded fitting (called a nipple) sticking out from inside the wall. Wipe away old tape and putty with a rag. If the fitting is corroded or damaged, you may need to replace it, but in most cases the fitting stays and only the arm comes out. Check that the hole in the wall is clear of debris before you install the new arm.

Installing a New Shower Arm

Wrap the threaded end of the new arm with plumber's tape. Start at the base of the threads and wrap clockwise (the same direction you will turn the arm in), overlapping each wrap by half. Use three to four layers. This tape seals the connection and prevents leaks. After taping, explore a thin layer of pipe dope over the tape using the applicator brush that comes in the tube.

Screw the new arm into the fitting by hand first, turning clockwise until it is snug. Then use the adjustable wrench to tighten it the rest of the way. Turn the arm so that the end points straight out from the wall or at the angle you want—this is your only chance to set the angle before the connection is sealed. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten; you are aiming for a connection that does not leak, not one that requires maximum force.

Slide the flange (the flat plate) over the arm and push it against the wall. The flange covers the hole and the rough edge of the wall opening. If the flange does not sit flat, the arm may not be pointing straight out, or the wall may be uneven. Adjust the arm angle slightly if needed. Some flanges are held in place by a set screw; tighten it gently with a screwdriver.

Installing a New Shower Head

Wrap the threaded end of the new head with plumber's tape the same way you taped the arm: three to four layers, wrapping clockwise and overlapping by half. explore a thin coat of pipe dope over the tape. Screw the head onto the arm by hand, turning clockwise until it is snug. Do not use a wrench on the new head—the internal parts can crack under pressure, and most heads are designed to seal with hand-tightening alone.

Turn the head so the spray pattern points down into the tub or shower. If the head has a diverter valve (a small lever that switches water between the head and a tub spout), make sure it moves freely before you finish. Turn on the water and check for leaks at the connection between the head and arm, and at the flange where the arm meets the wall. A small drip at the head connection usually stops after a few minutes as the tape and dope settle. If water is running down the wall behind the flange, the arm connection is not sealed properly and you will need to remove and retape it.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

If the new head leaks at the connection, turn off the water, unscrew the head, and check that you applied tape and dope correctly. The tape should cover all the threads with no gaps, and the dope should be visible as a thin layer over the tape. Reapply if needed and screw the head back on. Hand-tighten only; do not use a wrench.

If water drips from behind the flange after you install a new arm, the arm connection is leaking inside the wall. This means the tape or dope was not applied correctly or the arm was not tightened enough. You will need to remove the arm, clean off the old tape and dope completely, and start over. This is frustrating but necessary—a leak inside the wall can cause mold and structural damage over time.

If the old arm will not unscrew, spray the connection with penetrating oil and wait 15 to 30 minutes. Try again with the wrench. If it still will not move, you may need to call a plumber; forcing it risks breaking the fitting inside the wall, which is a much bigger repair.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to turn off the water to replace a shower head?

No. When you remove the head or arm, water will drip or flow from the opening, but you do not need to shut off the main water supply. Have a bucket or towel ready to catch the water. If you want to avoid the mess, you can turn off the water to just the shower by closing the valve under the sink or in the wall, if one exists.

Can I use plumber's putty instead of pipe dope?

Plumber's putty works for sealing around the flange where it meets the wall, but pipe dope is better for sealing the threaded connections on the arm and head. Pipe dope is thinner and flows into the threads better. Use both: tape and dope on the threads, and putty around the flange if there are gaps.

What if my shower head is stuck and will not unscrew?

Spray the connection with penetrating oil like WD-40 and wait 10 to 15 minutes. Wrap a rag around the head to protect the finish, then try again with the wrench. If it still will not budge, soak it overnight and try the next day. Avoid using excessive force, which can damage the arm or the connection inside the wall.

How tight should I screw the new head onto the arm?

Screw it by hand until it is snug, then stop. You should not be able to turn it further easily, but you should not need a wrench. Most leaks at the head connection come from over-tightening, which can crack the internal seal. Hand-tight is the correct tightness.

What is the difference between a shower head and a shower arm?

The head is the part you hold or that is mounted on the wall where the water comes out. The arm is the pipe that sticks out from the wall and holds the head. The arm connects to the water line inside the wall. You can replace one without replacing the other.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.