You can replace a sink faucet yourself with basic tools and no plumbing experience

A sink faucet replacement takes about 30 minutes and requires only a wrench, screwdriver, and bucket. You turn off the water supply under the sink, disconnect the old faucet, and bolt the new one in place. The hardest part is usually reaching the bolts underneath the sink — the actual plumbing is straightforward because modern faucets are designed to swap in and out without cutting pipes or soldering.

Most people replace a faucet because it leaks, the handle is broken, or they want a different style. The process is the same regardless. You do not need to call a plumber unless your water shutoff valve is stuck, the old faucet is corroded in place, or you want to move the faucet to a different location on the sink.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water supply using the shutoff valves under the sink, then turn on the faucet to release pressure before you disconnect anything.
  • The old faucet is held down by bolts underneath the sink; use a wrench to loosen them, then pull the faucet up and out from the top.
  • Clean the sink surface where the old faucet sat, then set the new faucet in place and tighten the bolts from underneath in a crisscross pattern.
  • Connect the hot and cold water supply lines to the correct ports on the new faucet, then turn the water back on and check for leaks at every connection.
  • If water leaks from under the sink after you turn it back on, tighten the connection one more turn with your wrench.

Gather your tools and materials before you start

You need a new faucet that fits your sink. Most kitchen and bathroom sinks have a standard 4-inch spread (the distance between the hot and cold water holes), but measure yours first by checking the distance between the center of each hole. If your sink has only one hole, you need a single-hole faucet. If it has three holes, you need a three-hole faucet or a faucet with a separate sprayer.

Collect these tools: an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver (usually Phillips head), a bucket or towel to catch water, and a flashlight if the space under your sink is dark. You may also need plumber's tape (also called thread seal tape or Teflon tape) if the new faucet does not come with pre-wrapped connections. Read the instructions that come with your new faucet before you start — some brands have slightly different steps.

Turn off the water and release the pressure

Look under the sink. You should see two shutoff valves — one for hot water and one for cold — connected to the pipes coming up from the wall or floor. Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them; they should turn smoothly. If a valve does not turn or leaks when you try, leave it alone and call a plumber before you proceed.

After you close both valves, turn on the faucet at the sink and let the water run until it stops. This releases the pressure in the lines so water does not spray when you disconnect the old faucet. You may see a small amount of water drip from the faucet even after the lines are empty — this is normal.

Disconnect the old faucet from underneath the sink

Slide under the sink with your bucket and flashlight. You will see the water supply lines (usually flexible hoses or rigid copper tubes) connected to the faucet. At the base of the faucet, you will see two or three bolts holding it to the sink. Use your wrench to loosen these bolts by turning them counterclockwise. They do not need to come all the way out — just loosen them enough that you can wiggle the faucet.

Once the bolts are loose, go back to the top of the sink and pull the old faucet straight up and out. It may stick slightly; wiggle it gently as you pull. After the faucet is out, disconnect the water supply lines from the faucet ports (the connection points where the hoses attach). Some water may drip out — this is why you have the bucket. Set the old faucet aside.

Look at the sink surface where the old faucet sat. You will see a rubber or silicone ring (called a gasket) and possibly some old caulk or mineral buildup. Wipe this clean with a damp cloth and let it dry completely. A clean surface helps the new faucet seal properly and prevents leaks.

Install the new faucet and tighten the bolts

Check that the new faucet comes with a gasket (a rubber ring that goes between the faucet and the sink). If it does not, you may need to explore a bead of silicone caulk around the base where the faucet will sit. Read the instructions — some faucets require caulk, others do not.

Lower the new faucet into the sink holes from the top. Make sure it is centered and sits flat against the sink surface. Reach underneath and hand-tighten the bolts first — do not use the wrench yet. Once all bolts are hand-tight, use your wrench to tighten them in a crisscross pattern (tighten the left bolt, then the right bolt, then the center, if there are three). This keeps the faucet level. Tighten each bolt a quarter turn at a time until the faucet does not move when you push on it. Do not over-tighten; you only need it snug enough to stay in place.

Connect the water supply lines and test for leaks

Look at the ports on the new faucet where the water lines connect. They are usually labeled H (hot) and C (cold), or they may be color-coded (red for hot, blue for cold). Connect the hot water line to the hot port and the cold water line to the cold port. Hand-tighten these connections first, then use your wrench to snug them another quarter turn. If the connection leaks after you turn the water back on, tighten it one more quarter turn.

Go back to the shutoff valves and turn them both counterclockwise to turn the water back on. Open the faucet slowly and let the water run for 10 to 15 seconds to flush out any debris from the lines. Then turn the faucet off and check underneath the sink for leaks. Look at every connection — where the supply lines attach to the faucet, where they attach to the shutoff valves, and where the faucet bolts go through the sink. If you see dripping, tighten that connection with your wrench.

Test the hot and cold handles to make sure they move smoothly and the water temperature changes when you switch between them. If the water is very slow or does not flow at all, you may have a shutoff valve that is not fully open. Go back under the sink and make sure both valves are turned all the way counterclockwise.

Common mistakes that cause leaks or problems

The most common mistake is connecting the hot and cold lines backward. If you do this, the hot handle will run cold and vice versa. It does not damage anything — just disconnect the lines and swap them. Another frequent problem is over-tightening the bolts under the sink, which can crack the sink or strip the bolt. Tighten until snug, then stop; you do not need to use all your strength.

Some people forget to turn off the water before they start, which causes a mess. Others do not release the pressure by turning on the faucet, so water sprays when they disconnect the old one. If you follow the steps in order, you will avoid both of these. A third mistake is installing the faucet crooked because the bolts were not tightened evenly. Tighten in a crisscross pattern and check that the faucet is level before you finish.

If water leaks from under the sink after you turn the water back on and the connections are tight, the gasket under the faucet may not be seated properly. Turn off the water, remove the faucet, clean the sink surface again, and reinstall it. Make sure the gasket is in place and the faucet sits flat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need plumber's tape for the water line connections?

Most modern faucets come with pre-wrapped connections that do not need tape. Check your faucet instructions. If the connections are bare threads, wrap them with plumber's tape before you attach the water lines. Wrap the tape clockwise around the threads three times, then attach the line and tighten.

What if the shutoff valve under the sink will not turn?

Do not force it — you may break it and create a bigger problem. Call a plumber before you proceed. If you absolutely must replace the faucet and the valve is stuck, you can turn off the main water supply to your house (usually a valve near the water meter or where the main line enters your home), but this affects your entire house.

Can I replace a faucet if my sink has only one hole?

Yes, but you need a single-hole faucet designed for that configuration. Some single-hole faucets have the hot and cold controls built into one unit. If your sink has extra holes from an old faucet, you can cover them with decorative caps that come with the new faucet, or you can fill them with a sink hole cover.

How tight should the bolts under the sink be?

Tight enough that the faucet does not move when you push on it, but not so tight that you are straining with the wrench. A quarter turn past hand-tight is usually right. If you hear a cracking sound or feel sudden resistance, stop — you may be stripping the bolt or cracking the sink.

What if water leaks from the faucet spout after I install it?

This usually means the shutoff valves are not fully closed. Go under the sink and make sure both valves are turned all the way counterclockwise. If water still leaks, the faucet itself may be defective — contact the manufacturer or return it to the store where you bought it.