How to Replace an RV Awning

What you need to know before you start

Replacing an RV awning is a job you can do yourself if you are comfortable working at height and handling basic tools, but it requires careful measurement, the right replacement fabric or complete awning unit, and usually a helper. Most RV awnings bolt to the side of your RV and roll up into a tube or case — you will be removing the old one, unbolting the mounting hardware, and installing the new one in the same location. The whole job typically takes four to six hours for a single awning, though it depends on how corroded the bolts are and whether you are replacing just the fabric or the entire awning assembly.

Before you buy anything, you need to know your awning's width, the depth it extends when open, and whether you want to replace only the fabric (cheaper, faster) or the entire roller assembly (more durable, sometimes necessary if the frame is bent or the motor is broken). You also need to decide whether you want a manual awning, a motorized one, or a semi-automatic one that you crank to extend but motor to retract.

Key Takeaways

Measure your awning width and extension depth before ordering a replacement, because RV awnings come in standard sizes and a wrong size will not fit your mounting brackets.
You can replace just the fabric if the roller tube and frame are still sound, which costs less and takes less time than replacing the entire assembly.
Removing the old awning requires unbolting it from the RV sidewall and carefully lowering it, so you will need a helper and a way to support the weight as you work.
The new awning bolts into the same holes, but you may need to clean corroded bolts or drill out stripped holes before installation.
A motorized awning costs more upfront but saves effort over time, while a manual awning is simpler to maintain and has fewer parts that can fail.

Measuring your awning and choosing a replacement

The width of your awning is the measurement across the RV side where it mounts — this is usually printed on the awning case itself or in your RV manual. If you cannot find it, measure from the center of the left mounting bracket to the center of the right mounting bracket. Standard RV awning widths are 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20 feet, and you must match your existing width exactly.

The extension depth is how far the awning pulls out from the RV — common depths are 8, 10, and 12 feet. If you are replacing the entire assembly, you can choose a different depth, but if you are replacing only the fabric, you must match the original depth because it has to fit the existing roller tube. Check your RV manual or measure the distance from the RV wall to the tip of the awning when it is fully extended.

Once you have those measurements, you can order a replacement. Fabric-only replacements are available from RV parts suppliers like Camping World, Amazon, or directly from awning manufacturers like Dometic, Carefree, and A&E. A complete awning assembly (roller, frame, and fabric) costs more but is necessary if your roller tube is bent, the frame is cracked, or the motor is dead. Fabric replacements typically cost $300 to $800, while a full assembly runs $800 to $2,500 depending on size and features.

Removing the old awning

Start by fully retracting the awning into its case. If it is motorized, use the motor. If it is manual, crank it all the way in. Once it is closed, locate the bolts that hold the awning case to the RV sidewall — there are usually four to eight bolts, one or two on each side and one or two at the top. These bolts go through the mounting brackets on the awning case and thread into the RV frame or into threaded inserts in the sidewall.

Use a socket wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen all the bolts, but do not remove them completely yet. Have your helper support the weight of the awning from below using a jack or by holding it steady. Once the awning is supported, remove the bolts completely and carefully lower the awning to the ground. If the awning is motorized, you may also need to disconnect the power cable that runs from the RV to the motor — this is usually a straightforward plug-in connector, but note which wire goes where before you unplug it.

Inspect the mounting brackets and the bolt holes in the RV sidewall. If the bolts are corroded or stuck, spray them with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes before trying again. If a bolt is stripped or the hole is enlarged, you may need to drill a new hole slightly offset from the old one, or use a larger bolt with a backing plate on the inside of the RV wall.

Installing the new awning

If you are installing a complete new awning assembly, position it against the RV sidewall and align the mounting brackets with the bolt holes. If you are installing only new fabric on the existing roller, you will need to remove the old fabric from the roller tube first — this usually involves unrolling the awning fully and unstitching or unbolting the fabric from the tube. Once the old fabric is off, roll the new fabric onto the tube, making sure it is centered and straight, then stitch or bolt it back on. This step is fiddly and takes patience, so do not rush it.

For a full assembly installation, insert the bolts through the mounting brackets and into the RV sidewall holes. Tighten them by hand first, then use your socket wrench to tighten them in a crisscross pattern (like tightening a car wheel) so the awning sits evenly against the wall. Do not over-tighten — you want the bolts snug enough that the awning does not move, but not so tight that you crack the mounting brackets or strip the bolts.

If the awning is motorized, reconnect the power cable. Most RV awning motors use a straightforward two-wire connection: one wire for power and one for ground. If you are unsure which is which, check the wiring diagram that came with the awning or look at the old motor connector. Once the power is connected, test the motor by pressing the extend and retract buttons on your RV control panel or remote.

Sealing and weatherproofing

Once the awning is bolted in place, you need to seal the gap between the awning case and the RV sidewall to prevent water from leaking in. Use a flexible, UV-resistant sealant like Dicor or Sikaflex — these are designed for RV use and will not crack or shrink as the RV expands and contracts with temperature changes. Run a bead of sealant along the top and sides of the awning case where it meets the RV wall.

Let the sealant cure for the time specified on the tube — usually 24 hours — before you extend the awning for the first time. Once it is cured, test the awning fully extended and retracted to make sure it moves smoothly and the fabric does not bind or wrinkle.

Choosing between manual, semi-automatic, and motorized awnings

A manual awning has a hand crank that you turn to extend and retract the fabric. It is the cheapest option, has no motor to break, and is straightforward to repair if something goes wrong. The downside is that it takes physical effort and you have to get outside to crank it, which is inconvenient in bad weather.

A semi-automatic awning has a hand crank to extend but a small motor to retract. This is a middle ground — you get some convenience without the full cost of a motorized awning. The motor is usually powered by a 12-volt battery in your RV, so it only works when the RV is powered.

A motorized awning extends and retracts at the push of a button, either on a wall switch in your RV or on a remote control. It is the most convenient and the most expensive. The motor can fail, and if it does, you may not be able to retract the awning without manually cranking a backup mechanism. Motorized awnings also draw power from your RV battery, so if your battery is low, the motor may not work.

Common problems and how to avoid them

The most common problem after awning replacement is water leaking around the mounting bolts. This happens when the sealant is not applied properly or when the bolts are not tight enough. To avoid this, use a generous amount of sealant and check the bolt tightness every few months, especially after driving on rough roads.

Another common issue is the fabric sagging or wrinkling after installation. This usually means the fabric was not centered on the roller tube or the tube is bent. If the tube is bent, you will need to replace the entire assembly. If the fabric is just off-center, you may be able to remove it and re-roll it correctly, but this is tedious and may not fully fix the problem.

Motorized awnings sometimes fail to retract because the motor has lost power or the limit switch is stuck. Check that your RV battery is fully charged and that the power cable to the motor is plugged in. If the motor still does not work, you may need to replace the motor or the control board, which requires removing the awning again.

When to call a professional

If your RV awning is mounted high above the ground or in a location that is hard to access, consider hiring a professional to do the replacement. RV service centers have lifts and equipment that make the job safer and faster. You should also call a professional if the mounting brackets are cracked, if the bolt holes are stripped beyond repair, or if you are not comfortable working at height.

If you are replacing a motorized awning and you are unsure about the electrical connections, have a professional handle the wiring. A mistake here can damage your RV's electrical system or create a fire hazard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the fabric without removing the entire awning?

Yes, if the roller tube and frame are still in good condition. You will need to fully extend the awning, unroll the old fabric, and unstitching or unbolt it from the tube. Then roll the new fabric onto the tube, making sure it is centered, and stitch or bolt it back on. This takes one to two hours and costs less than a full replacement.

What size awning do I need?

You need to match your existing awning width exactly — measure from the center of the left mounting bracket to the center of the right mounting bracket. The extension depth can be the same as the original or different if you are replacing the entire assembly, but if you are replacing only the fabric, the depth must match.

Do I need a helper to replace an RV awning?

Yes, you should have at least one person helping you. The awning is heavy and awkward to handle, and you need someone to support it while you are unbolting and removing it. A helper also makes it safer to work at height and easier to align the new awning during installation.

How long does it take to replace an RV awning?

A full replacement usually takes four to six hours, depending on how corroded the bolts are and whether you need to drill new holes. Replacing just the fabric takes one to two hours. If you are hiring a professional, the job may be faster because they have the right equipment and experience.

Can I install a motorized awning if my RV originally had a manual one?

Yes, as long as your RV has a 12-volt power source available near the awning location. You will need to run a power cable from your RV battery or power panel to the motor, which may require drilling a hole through the RV wall. If you are not comfortable with electrical work, hire a professional to do this part.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.