What You Need to Do Before You Start

Replacing cabinet door hinges takes about 15 to 30 minutes per door and requires only a screwdriver and a tape measure. The hinges themselves cost $3 to $15 each depending on the type and finish. You do not need to remove the door from the cabinet to do this job — you can work with it closed or open, whichever is steadier for you.

Before you buy new hinges, identify what you have. Open the cabinet door and look at the hinge from the side. If the hinge is mounted on the inside face of the door frame and wraps around the edge, you have a butt hinge. If it is a small rectangular plate with a pin running through it, mounted on the side of the door, you have a pivot hinge. If it is a cup-shaped piece sunk into the back of the door with a metal arm, you have a cup hinge (also called a concealed hinge). Measure the hinge length and note the finish — brass, chrome, stainless steel, or painted. Take a photo and bring it to the hardware store, or order the exact same model online.

Key Takeaways

  • Identify your hinge type by looking at its shape and where it mounts — butt hinges wrap the corner, pivot hinges are small rectangular plates, and cup hinges are hidden inside the door.
  • Remove one screw at a time from the old hinge, starting with the screw closest to the door edge, so the door does not sag while you work.
  • Align the new hinge using the existing screw holes, and if the holes are stripped, use a wooden toothpick or golf tee coated in wood glue to fill them before driving new screws.
  • Test the door swing and adjust it by tightening or loosening the screws — do not force a door that binds or sticks.

Remove the Old Hinges One Screw at a Time

Start with the bottom hinge. Open the cabinet door fully and prop it open with a wooden block or wedge so it does not swing shut while you work. Using a screwdriver that fits the screw head snugly (not loose, or you will strip it), remove the screw closest to the door edge first. This screw bears most of the door weight, so removing it last prevents the door from sagging and binding.

Remove the remaining screws from the bottom hinge one at a time, working from the door edge outward toward the cabinet frame. Once all screws are out, slide the hinge away from the door or frame — it should come free without force. If it sticks, do not pry it; instead, loosen any paint or finish around the edges with a utility knife and try again. Repeat this process for the top hinge. Leave the middle hinge (if you have one) in place until the new hinges are mounted — it will keep the door stable.

Prepare the Screw Holes for New Hinges

Look at the screw holes left behind. If they are clean and the wood around them is solid, you can reuse them. If the holes are enlarged, stripped, or the wood is splintered, you need to fill them before installing new hinges.

To fill a stripped hole, coat a wooden toothpick or a piece of a wooden golf tee with wood glue and tap it into the hole with a hammer. Let it dry for 10 to 15 minutes, then trim the excess flush with a utility knife. Drill a new pilot hole (a small hole to guide the screw) through the center of the filled hole using a drill bit slightly smaller than your new screw. If you do not have a drill, you can skip the pilot hole and drive the screw directly into the filled hole — it will hold, but a pilot hole makes the job easier and reduces the risk of splitting the wood.

Mount the New Hinges and Align the Door

Position the new hinge over the screw holes, making sure it sits flat against the door or frame. If the hinge has a cup that sinks into the door, align the cup with the hole already drilled in the back of the door. Insert the first screw (the one closest to the door edge) and tighten it snugly — not so tight that you strip the hole, but tight enough that the hinge does not move. Insert the remaining screws and tighten them in the same order: edge first, then outward.

Close the door slowly and watch the gap between the door and the frame. The gap should be even on all sides — about 1/8 inch is standard. If the door hangs lower on one side, the hinge on that side may be mounted too far forward or backward. Loosen the screws slightly and adjust the hinge position by 1/16 inch, then retighten. Do not force the door closed if it binds or sticks — stop, loosen the hinges, and adjust again. Repeat this process for the top hinge, then install the middle hinge if you have one.

Test the Door Swing and Make Final Adjustments

Open and close the door five to ten times, watching for binding, sticking, or uneven gaps. The door should swing smoothly and close with a gentle push — it should not slam or require force. If the door swings open on its own, the hinges may be mounted too far forward; loosen them slightly and move them back 1/16 inch. If the door swings closed on its own, move them forward.

Once the door swings smoothly, tighten all screws firmly. Check the gaps one more time: the top and bottom gaps should match, and the side gap should be even from top to bottom. If you are satisfied, you are done. If the gaps are still uneven, loosen the hinges again and adjust — this is normal and takes practice.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is removing all the screws from a hinge at once, which allows the door to sag and the screw holes to misalign. Always remove one screw at a time and work from the edge of the door outward. A second mistake is using a screwdriver that does not fit the screw head snugly — this strips the screw and ruins the hole. Spend 30 seconds finding the right screwdriver size before you start.

A third mistake is over-tightening the screws, which strips the holes and makes the hinge loose. Tighten until the hinge is snug and does not move, then stop. If you over-tighten and the screw spins without tightening, you have stripped the hole — fill it with a toothpick and wood glue as described above, then drill a new pilot hole and try again with a fresh screw.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just one hinge, or do I need to replace both?

You can replace one hinge if only one is broken or bent. However, if both hinges are old and worn, replacing both at the same time ensures the door hangs evenly and swings smoothly. If you replace only one, the door may hang slightly crooked until the remaining old hinge wears to match the new one.

What if the screw holes do not line up with the new hinges?

If the new hinges are a different size or style than the old ones, the holes may not match. Fill the old holes with wooden toothpicks and wood glue, let them dry, and drill new pilot holes where the new hinge screws need to go. This is normal when upgrading to a different hinge style.

How do I know if my hinges are worn out?

Worn hinges cause the door to sag, hang crooked, or swing open or closed on its own. If you adjust the hinges and the door still does not hang evenly, or if the hinge pin is bent or loose, the hinges need to be replaced. Hinges typically last 10 to 20 years depending on use.

Do I need to buy hinges that match the old ones exactly?

The new hinges should be the same type (butt, pivot, or cup) and roughly the same size, but they do not need to be the exact same brand or finish. However, if you are replacing hinges on a visible cabinet, matching the finish (brass, chrome, stainless steel) will look better than mixing finishes.

What if the door still binds after I adjust the hinges?

Binding usually means the hinges are not aligned properly, or the door frame is slightly warped. Loosen all the screws on both hinges and adjust them forward or backward by small amounts — 1/16 inch at a time. If the door still binds after several adjustments, the frame itself may need shimming, which is a separate job beyond hinge replacement.