You can replace a single-handle kitchen faucet yourself in about an hour

A single-handle faucet is one of the easiest faucet types to swap out because it has fewer connections than a two-handle model. The job involves turning off the water supply under the sink, disconnecting the old faucet, and bolting in the new one. You will need basic tools — a wrench, screwdriver, and adjustable pliers — and the new faucet should come with its own mounting hardware and instructions.

The hardest part is usually reaching the bolts underneath the sink, not the actual replacement. If your sink cabinet is cramped or the old faucet is stuck, the job takes longer, but the steps stay the same. Most people finish in 45 minutes to an hour once they have the right tools and the water is off.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water supply at the shutoff valves under the sink before you disconnect anything, and turn the faucet on to release pressure in the lines.
  • Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines and the drain line (if your faucet has a sprayer), then unbolt the old faucet from underneath the sink.
  • Install the new faucet by threading the mounting bolts through the sink holes, tightening them from underneath, and reconnecting the water lines in the same order they came off.
  • Test for leaks at the water line connections before you turn the water back on fully, because a small drip under pressure becomes a flood once the shutoff valves are open.

Turn off the water and release pressure from the lines

Look under the sink and locate the two shutoff valves — one for hot water and one for cold. They are usually oval knobs or small levers on the pipes coming from the wall. Turn both clockwise (or flip both levers to the off position) until they stop. Do not force them; they should turn smoothly.

Once the valves are closed, turn on the faucet at the sink and let the water run until nothing comes out. This drains the pressure from the lines so you do not get sprayed when you disconnect them. Leave the faucet in the on position while you work.

Disconnect the old water lines and drain connection

Place a bucket or towel under the pipes to catch any water still in the lines. Using an adjustable wrench, grip the nut where the hot water line connects to the faucet (usually at the back or side of the faucet base) and turn it counterclockwise. The line will come free. Repeat for the cold water line.

If your faucet has a sprayer hose, disconnect that too by unscrewing the nut where it attaches to the faucet body. Some sprayers also have a weight attached to the hose — keep that weight; you will need it for the new faucet if it comes with a sprayer.

Remove the mounting bolts and lift out the old faucet

Reach up under the sink and locate the bolts holding the faucet to the sink deck. Most single-handle faucets have two bolts, one on each side of the center hole. Using an adjustable wrench or socket wrench, turn these bolts counterclockwise until they are loose enough to unscrew by hand. Keep the bolts in a safe place in case you need them later.

Once the bolts are out, push the old faucet up and out through the sink hole from above. If it is stuck, wiggle it gently side to side while pushing. Do not pull hard on the spout — pull on the base of the faucet instead. Once it is free, set it aside.

Install the new faucet and tighten the mounting bolts

Most new faucets come with a rubber gasket or mounting ring that goes on the underside of the sink deck. Check your faucet instructions to see if this gasket should go on before or after the faucet is in place. Lower the new faucet through the sink hole so the spout and handles are above the deck and the base sits flat against the sink.

From underneath, thread the mounting bolts through the holes in the faucet base and into the sink deck. Tighten them by hand first, then use your wrench to snug them down. Do not over-tighten — you only need them tight enough that the faucet does not wiggle. If you over-tighten, you can crack the sink or strip the bolts.

Reconnect the water lines in the correct order

The hot water line should connect to the hot port on the faucet (usually marked with a red dot or the letter H), and the cold line to the cold port (usually blue or C). Screw the nut onto the hot water line first, then the cold water line. Hand-tighten both, then use your wrench to turn each nut about a quarter turn more. They should be snug but not so tight that you cannot turn them by hand if you need to adjust them later.

If your new faucet came with a sprayer, attach the hose to the sprayer port on the faucet body and screw the nut down hand-tight, then a quarter turn with the wrench. Attach the weight to the hose if your faucet came with one.

Check for leaks before opening the shutoff valves fully

Turn the shutoff valves back on slowly — turn them counterclockwise or flip the levers to the on position. Watch the connections you just made for drips. If water is dripping from a nut, turn that shutoff valve back off, tighten the nut a quarter turn with your wrench, and turn the valve back on. Repeat until the drip stops.

Once all the connections are dry, turn on the faucet and let it run for 30 seconds. Check underneath again for leaks. If everything is dry, you are done. If water is still dripping from a connection, turn off the shutoff valve, tighten that nut, and test again.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the old faucet bolts are stuck and will not turn?

Spray the bolts with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 minutes, then try again. If they still will not budge, you may need to cut them with a hacksaw or rotary tool, which takes longer but is still manageable. Do not force the wrench — you can strip the bolt head and make it harder to remove.

Can I use the old faucet's water lines with the new faucet?

Only if they are the same length and have the same thread size. Most new faucets come with new supply lines, and using the old ones can cause leaks. It is safer and cheaper to use the lines that came with your new faucet.

What if water keeps dripping from the base of the faucet where it meets the sink?

The gasket under the faucet base may not be seated properly. Turn off the water, unbolt the faucet, check that the gasket is in place and not torn, and reinstall the faucet. If the gasket is damaged, you may need to buy a replacement gasket kit for your faucet model.

Do I need to caulk around the faucet base?

Yes, after the faucet is installed and tested for leaks. Use silicone caulk (not acrylic) around the base where the faucet meets the sink. This keeps water from running down into the cabinet. Let the caulk dry for 24 hours before using the faucet heavily.

When should I call a plumber instead of doing this myself?

If the shutoff valves will not turn or are leaking, if the old faucet bolts cannot be removed, or if you cannot reach the bolts because of the sink cabinet layout, a plumber can handle it faster. Also call a plumber if you have a wall-mounted faucet instead of a deck-mounted one — that job is more complex.