Replace the pull string by removing the old cord from the recoil housing, threading new cord through the pulley system, and rewinding it under tension

A broken pull string leaves your lawn mower dead in the garage. The good news: you can replace it yourself with basic tools and about 30 minutes of work. You will need a new starter cord (usually nylon, sold at hardware stores in spools), a screwdriver, pliers, and a lighter or match to seal the cord ends. The hardest part is not the replacement itself—it is keeping tension on the new cord while you wind it back into the housing.

The process is the same across most push mowers and small engines: drain the fuel tank or tip the mower so fuel does not spill, remove the recoil housing cover, unwind the old cord, install the new one, and wind it back under spring tension. If your mower has a safety switch or kill switch attached to the pull handle, you will need to disconnect it first. Take a photo before you start so you remember how the wires connect.

Key Takeaways

  • Drain or tip your mower before opening the housing to prevent fuel from spilling into the engine.
  • The old cord is usually tied to the recoil spring pulley with a straightforward knot; cut it and unwind the pulley completely before installing new cord.
  • New starter cord is sold by diameter (usually 3/32 inch or 7/64 inch) and length; check your old cord or the housing to find the right size.
  • Wind the new cord under spring tension by holding the pulley steady with one hand while wrapping with the other, or the spring will unwind and pinch your fingers.
  • Seal both ends of the nylon cord with a lighter to prevent fraying, and test the pull before reassembling the housing cover.

Gather the Right Cord Size and Tools

Starter cord comes in two common diameters: 3/32 inch and 7/64 inch. The easiest way to find your size is to measure the old cord with a ruler or caliper before you remove it. If the old cord is gone, look inside the recoil housing at the pulley—the groove where the cord sits will tell you the diameter. Most small push mowers use 3/32 inch; larger or commercial mowers often use 7/64 inch.

Buy cord in a spool from a hardware store or online. You will need roughly 12 to 15 feet for a typical push mower, though some larger engines need up to 20 feet. It is better to buy too much than too little—you can always trim the excess. You will also need a screwdriver (usually Phillips head) to remove the recoil housing cover, pliers to hold the pulley steady, and a lighter or match to melt the cord ends so they do not fray.

Remove the Recoil Housing Cover and Old Cord

Tip the mower on its side with the carburetor facing up, or drain the fuel tank completely. This prevents gasoline from leaking into the engine when you open the housing. Locate the recoil housing—it is the plastic or metal cover on top of the engine where the pull handle attaches. Remove the screws holding the cover in place and set them aside in a small cup so you do not lose them.

Once the cover is off, you will see the recoil pulley (a round wheel with a groove around the edge) and the recoil spring coiled underneath. The old cord is usually tied to the pulley with a straightforward knot. Cut the cord at the knot and pull it out of the housing. If the cord is still wound around the pulley, unwind it by hand. Do not let the pulley spin freely—the spring underneath is under tension and can snap back and pinch your fingers. Hold the pulley steady with pliers as you unwind.

Thread and find the New Cord

Cut a piece of new cord about 2 feet longer than the old one. Melt one end with a lighter by holding the nylon just above the flame until it softens and the fibers fuse together. Let it cool for a few seconds—do not touch it while hot. This sealed end prevents the cord from unraveling and makes it easier to thread through the handle eyelet later.

Thread the sealed end through the hole in the recoil pulley (the same hole the old cord came out of). Pull the cord through until about 6 inches hangs on the other side of the pulley. Tie a knot on the inside of the pulley—a straightforward overhand knot works fine. Pull the knot tight so the cord cannot slip back through the hole. This is your anchor point; the rest of the cord will wind around the pulley from here.

Wind the Cord Under Spring Tension

This is the step that trips up most people. The recoil spring is compressed and wants to spin the pulley. You must hold the pulley steady with one hand while winding the cord with the other, or the spring will unwind suddenly and catch your fingers. Use pliers to grip the pulley hub (the center part) and hold it absolutely still.

With your other hand, wrap the cord around the pulley groove in the direction the pulley naturally wants to turn (usually clockwise when viewed from above). Wind it tightly and evenly, with each wrap sitting next to the previous one. Do not overlap the wraps or leave gaps. Keep tension on the cord as you wind—if you let it go slack, the spring will unwind and you will have to start over. Wind until the cord fills most of the groove, leaving about 2 to 3 inches of cord free to attach to the handle.

Once the pulley is fully wound, hold the cord tight with one hand while you slowly release the pliers with the other. The spring tension should hold the wound cord in place. If the pulley tries to spin, you did not wind it tightly enough—hold it again and add another wrap or two.

Attach the Cord to the Handle and Seal the End

Pull the free end of the cord up through the hole in the recoil housing cover (the same hole the old handle came through). Thread it through the handle eyelet—the small loop at the end of the pull handle. Tie a knot on the end of the cord so it cannot slip back through the eyelet. An overhand knot or figure-eight knot both work. Pull the knot tight.

Melt the very end of the cord with a lighter to seal it, just as you did with the other end. This prevents fraying and makes the handle more comfortable to grip. Let the sealed end cool completely before touching it.

Test the Pull and Reassemble

Before you close up the housing, test the pull handle. It should pull smoothly and return to its resting position with a snap. If the pull is stiff or the handle does not return, the cord may be wound too tightly or the spring may not be fully compressed. If the pull is too loose or the handle does not snap back, the cord may be wound too loosely. Make small adjustments by unwinding or rewinding a wrap or two until the action feels right.

Once the pull feels smooth and snappy, screw the recoil housing cover back on. Make sure all screws are tight so the cover does not rattle. If your mower has a safety switch or kill switch wired to the handle, reconnect the wires now—match them to the photo you took at the start. Fill the fuel tank, prime the engine if needed, and test the pull a few more times before trying to start the mower.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size cord do I need if I cannot measure the old one?

Most push mowers use 3/32 inch cord. If you buy the wrong size, the cord will either fall out of the pulley groove or be too tight to wind. You can always return it and swap for the other size. Bring the recoil housing with you to the store so a staff member can help you match the groove.

Can I use the same cord if I just rewind it?

Not if it is frayed or kinked. A damaged cord will not pull smoothly and may break again quickly. If the cord is intact but just unwound, you can rewind it, but new cord is inexpensive and usually lasts longer. Replacing it while you have the housing open is the smart move.

What if the recoil spring breaks while I am working?

A broken spring is not something you can fix at home. You will need to order a replacement spring and recoil housing assembly from the mower manufacturer or a small engine shop. This is a bigger job than replacing the cord alone, so if the spring breaks, take the mower to a repair shop.

How tight should the cord be wound?

Wind it snugly so each wrap sits flat against the pulley groove with no gaps or overlaps. The cord should not be so tight that it is hard to turn the pulley by hand, but it should not be loose enough to slip. When you release the pliers, the spring tension should hold everything in place without the cord moving.

Do I need to drain the fuel tank before I start?

Yes, or at least tip the mower so the carburetor side faces up. Fuel will leak out when you open the housing, and if it gets into the engine, it can cause starting problems or damage. Draining takes five minutes and saves you a headache later.