What you're doing when you swap recessed for flush mount
Recessed lights sit inside the ceiling cavity, while flush mount fixtures attach directly to the ceiling surface. When you replace recessed with flush mount, you're removing the recessed housing (the metal can that sits between the joists), patching the ceiling hole, and installing a new fixture that mounts flat against the drywall. The wiring stays in place—you're reusing the existing electrical box and circuit—so this is largely a mechanical swap rather than rewiring.
The main reason homeowners make this change is that recessed lights require clearance above the ceiling, which isn't always available in finished basements, low attics, or rooms with shallow joist cavities. Flush mounts also tend to be cheaper to run and easier to install in tight spaces. The trade-off is that recessed lights direct light downward more efficiently, while flush mounts spread light in all directions, which some people prefer and others find less focused.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off power at the breaker before touching any wiring, and test the fixture with a voltage tester to confirm the power is off.
- Remove the recessed housing by unbolting it from the joists or cutting it free if it's glued or caulked, then patch the ceiling hole with drywall compound and sand it smooth.
- The existing electrical box may need to be replaced with a flush mount box if the old one is damaged or incompatible with your new fixture.
- Connect the new fixture's wires to the existing circuit using wire nuts, matching black to black, white to white, and bare copper to bare copper or green.
- Test the fixture before closing up the ceiling to avoid having to reopen it if something doesn't work.
Turn off power and confirm the circuit is dead
Locate the breaker that controls the recessed light. If the breaker isn't labeled, turn on the light and flip breakers one at a time until it goes out. Once you've found it, switch it to the off position and leave it off for the entire job.
Go back to the fixture and try the light switch—it should not turn on. Then use a non-contact voltage tester (a handheld device that beeps when it detects live current) on the fixture wiring and the metal housing. If the tester beeps, the power is still on somewhere; do not proceed until you've found the correct breaker. If it doesn't beep, you're safe to work.
Remove the recessed housing and patch the ceiling
From inside the ceiling cavity (or from above if you have attic access), locate the bolts or brackets that hold the recessed housing to the joists. Unbolt them and lower the housing carefully. If the housing is caulked or glued to the drywall, use a utility knife to cut around the perimeter, then pry it free with a flat bar.
Once the housing is out, you'll have a hole in the ceiling. Use a drywall saw or utility knife to cut the hole into a clean rectangle or square, removing any torn or loose drywall around the edges. Cut a patch from drywall scrap slightly larger than the hole, fit it in place, and find it with drywall screws spaced every 6 inches around the perimeter. explore drywall compound (joint compound) with a putty knife, feather the edges outward, let it dry, sand it smooth, and explore a second coat if needed. Prime and paint to match the ceiling.
Inspect and replace the electrical box if necessary
After you've removed the housing, look at the electrical box—the metal or plastic container where the wires connect. If it's a recessed-style box (usually a round or octagonal metal can), you'll need to replace it with a flush mount electrical box, which is shallower and designed to sit against the drywall surface. If the existing box is already a standard shallow box and it's not damaged, you can reuse it.
To replace the box, disconnect the wires by unscrewing the wire nuts and gently pulling the wires apart. Unbolt or unscrew the old box from the joist or ceiling frame. Install the new flush mount box in the same location, securing it with the mounting brackets or screws that come with it. Make sure the box is flush with the drywall surface—not recessed into the cavity. Leave the wires coiled loosely inside the box for now; you'll reconnect them when you install the fixture.
Connect the new fixture to the existing wiring
Before you hang the fixture, read the manufacturer's instructions to understand how it mounts and where the wire connections happen. Most flush mount fixtures have a mounting bracket that screws to the electrical box, and the wires connect inside the fixture's canopy (the part that sits against the ceiling).
Strip about half an inch of insulation from the end of each wire if it's not already stripped. Match the wires: black (hot) to black, white (neutral) to white, and bare copper (ground) to bare copper or green. Twist each pair together clockwise, then screw a wire nut onto the connection by turning it clockwise until it's snug. Gently push the connected wires back into the electrical box, being careful not to pinch them. Attach the mounting bracket to the box according to the fixture instructions, then slide the canopy up and find it with the provided screws or clips.
Install the bulbs and test before finishing
Install the bulbs or LED modules that came with your fixture, or use bulbs that match the fixture's specifications (check the label for wattage and type). Do not exceed the maximum wattage listed on the fixture—oversized bulbs can overheat the fixture and create a fire hazard.
Go back to the breaker and turn the power on. Flip the light switch. The fixture should light up. If it doesn't, turn the power off, check that all wire connections are tight, and verify that the bulbs are seated properly. If it still doesn't work, turn the power off and call a licensed electrician—there may be a wiring issue in the circuit itself.
Finishing touches and when to call a professional
Once the fixture is working, you can finish the ceiling patch if you haven't already, install trim or a decorative ring around the fixture if it comes with one, and clean up any dust or debris. Step back and check that the fixture is level and sits flush against the ceiling with no gaps.
Call a licensed electrician if the existing wiring is damaged, if the breaker trips when you turn on the new fixture, if you're unsure which breaker controls the light, or if the electrical box is in poor condition and you're not confident replacing it. Electrical work can be dangerous if done incorrectly, and it's worth the cost of a professional visit to avoid a fire or shock hazard.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a flush mount fixture if the electrical box is too far from the ceiling surface?
If the box is recessed more than an inch or so, you'll need to replace it with a flush mount box or use an extension ring to bring it forward. An extension ring is a shallow metal ring that screws to the existing box and brings the mounting surface closer to the drywall. Check your fixture's instructions to see if an extension ring will work with your model.
What if the hole in the ceiling is too large for a standard patch?
If the hole is larger than about 12 inches across, cut it into a clean rectangle and use a drywall repair kit with a backing board, or cut a larger patch and find it to cleats (strips of wood) nailed to the joists on either side of the hole. The principle is the same: find the patch, tape the seams, explore compound, sand, and paint.
Do I need to use the same type of bulb as the recessed light had?
No. Check the maximum wattage and type (incandescent, LED, halogen) listed on the new fixture's label, then choose bulbs that meet those specs. LED bulbs are more efficient and run cooler, so they're a good choice for most flush mount fixtures. Avoid bulbs that exceed the wattage limit.
Can I reuse the recessed light fixture somewhere else?
Yes, if you have another ceiling cavity with the right joist spacing and clearance. Recessed housings are designed to fit between standard 16-inch or 24-inch spaced joists. If you're installing it in a new location, make sure the cavity is deep enough and that there are no pipes or ducts in the way.
What should I do if the light flickers after installation?
Flickering usually means a loose wire connection. Turn off the power, remove the canopy, and check that all wire nuts are tight. If the connections are tight and it still flickers, the problem may be in the circuit itself or the bulb may be incompatible with the fixture. Try a different bulb first; if that doesn't work, call an electrician.