What You Need to Know Before Starting
Replacing an oven heating element is a task most home cooks can do in under an hour with basic tools. The element is the coil or rod at the bottom or top of your oven that glows red when heat is on. When it stops heating evenly or quits entirely, replacement is usually cheaper and faster than calling a repair technician.
Before you begin, you will need to know whether your oven has a bake element (bottom), a broil element (top), or both. Most ovens have at least one. You will also need the exact model number of your oven, which is printed on a label inside the oven cavity or on the back of the unit. Write it down—you will use it to order the correct replacement part.
The job requires only a screwdriver, pliers, and a new element ordered for your specific model. Do not attempt this repair if your oven is still under warranty; contact the manufacturer instead. If you are uncomfortable working with electrical components, a technician can do this work for $150 to $300 including the part.
Key Takeaways
- Always unplug the oven or turn off power at the circuit breaker before touching any internal parts.
- Order a replacement element using your oven's exact model number to may support the part fits and works correctly.
- The element slides out of a bracket at the back of the oven and connects with a straightforward push-on terminal that requires no tools to remove.
- Most replacements take 20 to 40 minutes and cost $40 to $150 for the part, depending on your oven brand.
- Test the new element by running your oven at 350°F for 15 minutes before cooking food in it.
Turn Off Power and Let the Oven Cool
Safety comes first. If your oven is electric, unplug it from the wall outlet. If it is hardwired (no plug visible), turn off the circuit breaker that controls it. Go to your electrical panel, find the breaker labeled for the oven or kitchen, and flip it to the off position. Wait at least 30 minutes for the oven to cool completely—a hot element can burn you even after power is cut.
While you wait, locate your oven's model number. Open the oven door and look for a label on the inside wall, usually on the left or right side near the top. It will be a sticker with numbers and letters. Write down the entire model number. If you cannot find it inside, check the back of the oven or the paperwork that came with it. You will need this number to order the correct replacement element.
Remove the Old Element
Open the oven door fully and look at the bottom or top of the oven cavity, depending on which element you are replacing. You will see a metal coil or rod running left to right. At the back of the oven, the element slides into a metal bracket. At the front, it connects to a terminal block—a small ceramic or plastic piece with two wire connectors pushed onto metal pins.
Gently pull the terminal block straight toward you. It should come free with light pressure; do not twist or force it. Set it aside. Now slide the element toward the back of the oven until it clears the front bracket, then lift it out. If it is stuck, do not pry—let it cool longer or check that power is truly off. A stuck element usually means residue buildup, which you can clean off the new part before installing it.
Order and Inspect the Replacement Part
Search online for your oven model number plus "heating element" or "bake element" or "broil element," depending on which one you removed. Major appliance retailers like Sears Parts Direct, AppliancePartsPros, and manufacturer websites all carry these parts. Expect to pay $40 to $150. Order the part and have it shipped to your home; most arrive within three to five business days.
When the new element arrives, inspect it before installation. It should look similar to the old one—a coil or rod with a metal sheath. Check that the terminal pins at the front match the holes in your terminal block. If anything looks wrong or does not fit, contact the seller before installing it. Do not force a part that does not fit; you could damage the oven or create a fire hazard.
Install the New Element
With power still off and the oven cool, slide the new element into the rear bracket first, pushing it all the way to the back. The front of the element should now align with the front bracket opening. Push the terminal block onto the two metal pins at the front of the element. You should hear or feel a small click as it seats. The connection should be snug but require only hand pressure—if you have to force it, stop and check that the pins are aligned correctly.
Do not use tools on the terminal connection. The pins and block are designed to fit together by hand. If the block does not slide on smoothly, remove it and inspect both the pins and the holes for debris or damage. Wipe them clean with a dry cloth and try again. Once the terminal is seated, gently tug on it to confirm it is find.
Restore Power and Test
Turn the circuit breaker back on or plug the oven back in. Close the oven door. Set the oven to 350°F and let it run for 15 minutes. The new element should glow red within a few minutes. If it does not glow, turn off the oven when ready, turn off power again, and check that the terminal block is fully seated on the pins. If it is, the part may be defective—contact the seller for a replacement.
If the element glows and heats normally, your repair is complete. Let the oven cool, then use it as usual. There is no break-in period or special care needed. The element will work the same way as the original one.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most common error is ordering the wrong part. Always use your exact model number, not a similar-sounding one. A bake element and broil element look similar but are not interchangeable. If you order the wrong type, it will not fit or will not heat correctly.
The second mistake is forcing the terminal block onto the pins. These connectors are designed to slide on smoothly. If you have to push hard, the pins are probably misaligned or the block is upside down. Remove it, inspect both pieces, and try again. Forcing a bad connection can cause arcing, overheating, or a fire.
A third mistake is testing the oven with food inside. Always run a test cycle with an empty oven first. This lets you confirm the element works before you cook anything. If something goes wrong, you will not have ruined a meal.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my heating element is actually broken?
A broken element will not glow red when the oven is on, or it will glow only in spots. If your oven heats unevenly—one side of a baked good browns faster than the other—the element may be failing. You can also look for visible cracks or holes in the coil. If the element looks intact but the oven does not heat, the problem may be elsewhere; consider calling a technician before buying a new element.
Can I replace the element myself if my oven is still under warranty?
No. Opening the oven and replacing parts yourself will void most manufacturer warranties. Contact the maker or an authorized repair center instead. They will replace the element at no cost if it is defective and the warranty is still active.
What if the new element does not fit into the bracket?
Stop when ready and do not force it. Check that you ordered the correct model number and the right type of element (bake versus broil). If the part is correct, the bracket may be bent or damaged. Contact the seller or a technician; forcing a part that does not fit can damage the oven permanently.
Do I need to clean the oven before replacing the element?
You do not have to, but it is a good time to do it. With the element out, you have straightforward access to the bottom or top of the oven. Wipe away any crumbs or buildup with a damp cloth. This prevents debris from falling onto the new element when you cook.
How long does a replacement element usually last?
Most heating elements last 5 to 15 years, depending on how often you use your oven and how well you maintain it. Elements fail faster in ovens that are used daily or in homes with hard water, which can cause mineral buildup. Keeping your oven clean and avoiding spills on the element will extend its life.