Measure what you're actually storing, then add 25 percent
The most common mistake is guessing. You need to know the volume of the items you plan to store before you rent anything. Walk through your home with a tape measure and a notebook. Measure the length, width, and height of each piece of furniture, each box stack, and each appliance you'll move into storage. Multiply length × width × height for each item, then add them together. This gives you cubic feet.
Once you have that number, add 25 percent for packing inefficiency — boxes don't stack perfectly, furniture takes up more space than its dimensions suggest, and you'll want a small aisle to move around inside the unit. If your items total 400 cubic feet, rent for 500 cubic feet of usable space.
A standard 5×10 unit holds about 400 cubic feet. A 10×10 unit holds about 800 cubic feet. A 10×15 unit holds about 1,200 cubic feet. These are rough numbers because the actual usable space depends on how the unit is shaped and whether you stack efficiently, but they give you a starting point.
Key Takeaways
- Measure every item you plan to store by multiplying its length, width, and height, then add 25 percent to account for packing gaps and movement space.
- A 5×10 unit holds roughly 400 cubic feet; a 10×10 holds about 800; a 10×15 holds about 1,200 — but actual usable space varies by facility.
- Climate-controlled units cost more but protect wood furniture, electronics, and documents from humidity, temperature swings, and mold during renovations lasting more than a few weeks.
- Ground-floor units are easier to load and unload but may flood; upper floors are safer from water but require more lifting.
- Visit the actual unit before you rent it — online photos and dimensions don't show ceiling height, pillar placement, or whether the door opens fully.
Decide whether you need climate control
Climate control matters if your renovation will last more than four weeks or if you're storing items sensitive to temperature and humidity. Wood furniture swells and shrinks as humidity changes, which can crack joints and warp doors. Electronics can develop condensation inside components. Documents, photographs, and fabric absorb moisture and develop mold in uncontrolled units, especially in summer or in humid climates.
A standard unit with no climate control costs less — typically $50 to $150 per month depending on size and location — but exposes your belongings to whatever the weather does. A climate-controlled unit maintains temperature between 55 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and keeps humidity below 55 percent. These units cost $100 to $300 per month for the same size, but they're worth it if you're storing anything wooden, electronic, or paper-based for longer than a month.
If your renovation is a quick kitchen remodel or bathroom gut — two to three weeks — an uncontrolled unit is usually fine for boxes and metal items. If you're doing a full gut renovation or major structural work, climate control is the safer choice.
Account for access frequency and door placement
Think about how often you'll need to get items in and out during the renovation. If you're storing seasonal decorations and won't touch them for three months, placement doesn't matter much. If you need to retrieve tools, paint, or supplies weekly, you want a unit near the front of the facility and close to the parking area.
Ground-floor units are easier to load and unload — no stairs, no elevators, no carrying boxes up multiple flights. The trade-off is flood risk. If your facility is in an area that floods or has poor drainage, a ground-floor unit can mean losing everything to water damage. Upper-floor units are safer from flooding but require more physical effort to move items in and out.
Check the door swing before you rent. Some units have doors that open 90 degrees; others open fully to 180 degrees. If you're storing a couch or a dresser, you need the door to open wide enough that the item can fit through at an angle. Visit the actual unit and test the door with a large box or furniture piece if possible.
Compare facility features that protect your items
Not all storage facilities are built the same. Look for units with solid walls, not wire cages — wire cages offer no protection from dust, pests, or theft. Check whether the facility has 24-hour security cameras, gated access, and on-site management. A facility with a manager present during business hours can respond quickly if you notice a leak or pest problem.
Ask whether the unit has a concrete floor or dirt. Concrete is better for moisture control and easier to clean. Dirt floors can hold standing water and attract insects. Check the ceiling for signs of past leaks — water stains, rust, or mold — which suggest the roof leaks during heavy rain.
Pest control matters during a renovation when your home is open to the outside. Ask the facility how often they spray for insects and rodents, and whether they use preventive treatments or only respond to reports. A facility that sprays monthly is better than one that only treats when you call.
Factor in the total cost and rental term
Storage unit pricing varies widely by location, size, and season. A 5×10 unit in a rural area might cost $40 per month, while the same unit in a city costs $120 per month. Climate-controlled units add $50 to $150 per month on top of the base price. Some facilities charge a deposit, an administration fee, or a lock fee — ask about all charges before you commit.
Calculate the total cost for the length of your renovation. If your project will take four months and a 5×10 unit costs $80 per month, the total is $320 plus any fees. If you're considering upgrading to a 10×10 unit at $120 per month, that's $480 for the same four months. The difference matters when you're already spending money on contractors and materials.
Ask about month-to-month rental versus longer-term discounts. Some facilities offer a lower rate if you commit to three or six months. If your renovation timeline is uncertain, month-to-month is safer even if it costs slightly more per month.
Test the unit before moving anything in
Visit the facility in person and inspect the specific unit you'll rent, not a model unit. Bring a tape measure and check the ceiling height — some units have lower ceilings than others, which affects how high you can stack boxes. Look for cracks in the walls, signs of water damage, or gaps around the door frame. Open and close the door several times to make sure it moves smoothly and locks securely.
Ask the facility manager about the unit's history. Has it had water problems? Has anyone reported pest issues? How long has the current roof been in place? These questions tell you whether the unit is actually well-maintained or just looks clean on the surface.
If the unit doesn't feel right — if the door doesn't close properly, if you see mold, or if the manager seems evasive about maintenance — keep looking. A cheap unit that damages your furniture is not a bargain.
Plan your packing strategy to maximize space
How you pack affects how much actually fits. Disassemble furniture when possible — remove table legs, take apart bed frames, and fold down shelving units. This reduces volume significantly. Stack boxes in columns from floor to ceiling rather than spreading them across the floor. Use the vertical space.
Label boxes clearly with their contents and the room they came from. This saves time when you need to find something during the renovation, and it helps you reload your home faster when the project is done. Take photos of how you packed the unit — if something shifts or gets damaged, photos help you remember what was where.
Don't pack items you might need during the renovation into the back of the unit. Keep frequently accessed items near the door. Store heavy items on the bottom and lighter items on top to prevent crushing and to make retrieval easier.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size unit do I need for a kitchen renovation?
A kitchen renovation typically requires a 5×10 unit if you're storing cabinets, appliances, and a few boxes of dishes and hardware. If you're also storing dining furniture or other items from adjacent rooms, move up to a 10×10. Measure your appliances and cabinet boxes first — a refrigerator alone takes up 30 cubic feet.
Should I get a bigger unit than I think I need?
Yes, if the price difference is small. A unit that's slightly too large gives you room to move around, retrieve items without shifting everything, and add unexpected items without running out of space. The extra $20 or $30 per month is usually worth the convenience and safety.
Can I store paint, drywall, and construction materials in a regular storage unit?
Yes, but keep paint and solvents away from temperature extremes. In an uncontrolled unit, paint can separate or thicken in cold weather and thin in heat. Drywall and lumber are fine in uncontrolled units. Store paint upright on a shelf, not on the floor where it can leak, and keep it away from the back wall where condensation collects.
What happens if my renovation takes longer than expected?
Month-to-month rental lets you extend without penalty. If you signed a longer-term lease, check the contract for early termination fees. Some facilities charge a penalty equal to one month's rent; others let you out with 30 days' notice. Ask about this before you sign.
Is it cheaper to rent a unit or leave items in my home during renovation?
It depends on the scope. For a small bathroom remodel, leaving items in an unaffected bedroom costs nothing. For a full-home renovation or anything involving structural work, dust and debris will damage furniture and electronics left in the house. A storage unit protects your belongings and gives contractors clear space to work, which often speeds up the job and reduces costs.