Curtain installation breaks into three main routes: hanging them yourself with basic tools, hiring a handyperson or contractor, or using a retailer's installation service
The choice depends on the rod type, wall condition, how many windows you have, and whether you already own the curtains or are buying them new. A single window with a standard rod and drywall takes most people 20 to 40 minutes. Plaster walls, brick, tile, or multiple windows shift the math toward hiring. Retailer services (offered by stores like Home Depot, Lowe's, and some fabric shops) bundle the curtains with installation and handle the whole job, but cost more per window. Independent handypeople or contractors give you more control over timing and can work with existing rods or unusual window shapes.
The real cost difference is not the rod or brackets—those run $15 to $60—but labor. A handyperson typically charges $50 to $150 per window or a flat rate of $100 to $300 for a room. Retailer services often charge $15 to $30 per window on top of the curtain price, but require you to buy their curtains. If you already own curtains and have straightforward windows, DIY is the cheapest route. If walls are difficult or you want the job done fast and may provide, hiring is worth the cost.
Key Takeaways
- DIY installation on drywall with a standard rod costs $15 to $60 in materials and takes 20 to 40 minutes per window.
- Hiring a handyperson costs $50 to $150 per window or $100 to $300 flat for a room, and is necessary for plaster, brick, or tile walls.
- Retailer installation services charge $15 to $30 per window on top of curtain cost, but only work if you buy their curtains.
- The hardest part of any installation is locating studs and anchors in the wall—getting this wrong causes rods to sag or fall.
What you need to install curtains yourself
A standard installation requires a drill with a bit set, a stud finder (or a thin nail and a hammer to probe), a level, a tape measure, a pencil, and a screwdriver. If your walls are drywall and you are using a basic rod with standard brackets, that is all you need. The brackets come with screws rated for drywall anchors, which hold the rod weight without hitting a stud.
If your walls are plaster, brick, tile, or concrete, you will need different anchors—masonry anchors for brick and concrete, toggle bolts for plaster. A drill bit rated for masonry is also necessary. These materials are harder to penetrate and require more force, which is why many people stop here and call a handyperson instead. A stud finder makes the job faster and more accurate, but a thin finishing nail and a hammer work if you are patient.
Before you buy anything, measure the window width and decide where the rod should sit. Most rods hang 4 to 8 inches above the window frame and extend 8 to 12 inches beyond each side. Mark these points on the wall with a pencil. This is where your brackets go.
Steps for hanging a rod on drywall
Locate the studs in the wall using a stud finder or by tapping with a nail. Studs are the wooden beams behind drywall, spaced 16 inches apart. If a bracket location falls on a stud, screw directly into it—no anchor needed. If not, use a drywall anchor rated for the rod weight (usually printed on the bracket package).
Drill a hole at each bracket location. If using an anchor, insert it into the hole first, then screw the bracket into the anchor. If hitting a stud, drill a pilot hole (a smaller hole to guide the screw) and screw the bracket directly in. Use a level to may support both brackets are at the same height—even a quarter-inch difference is visible once the curtains hang.
Slide the rod through the curtain pocket or rings, then rest the rod on the brackets and find it with the set screws that come with the brackets. Hang the curtains and adjust them so they fall evenly. If the rod sags in the middle on a wide window, add a center support bracket.
When to hire instead of DIY
Plaster walls are the main reason to hire. Plaster is brittle and cracks easily if you drill without the right technique and bit. Brick and tile require a masonry drill and patience; most people find it frustrating. Concrete is similar. If your walls are any of these, a handyperson will have the right tools and experience to avoid damage.
Hire also if you have more than four or five windows, the windows are very wide (over 60 inches), or you want a center support bracket. A handyperson can do a whole room in a few hours; DIY spreads it across several days. If you are renting and want to avoid wall damage, hiring removes the risk of a security deposit deduction.
Retailer services make sense if you are buying new curtains and want one transaction. You pick the curtains, they measure, and they install. The downside is cost per window and the fact that you cannot use your own curtains. If you already own curtains you like, an independent handyperson is usually cheaper and faster.
Cost comparison: DIY, handyperson, and retailer service
| Route | Cost per window | Total time | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY on drywall | $15–$60 (materials only) | 20–40 minutes per window | 1–3 windows, drywall, existing curtains |
| Handyperson | $50–$150 per window or $100–$300 flat | 2–4 hours for a room | Plaster, brick, tile, or 4+ windows |
| Retailer service | $15–$30 per window + curtain cost | 1–2 weeks (scheduling) | Buying new curtains, want one vendor |
Common mistakes that cause rods to sag or fall
The most common error is using an anchor that is too small for the rod weight. A lightweight curtain rod on a standard drywall anchor is fine, but a heavy velvet or blackout curtain on a cheap plastic anchor will sag within weeks. Check the weight rating on the bracket package and match it to your curtains. If in doubt, use a heavier-duty anchor or hit a stud.
The second mistake is not using a level. A rod that looks straight to the eye often is not. Hang the level on the rod itself before tightening the set screws. Even a quarter-inch slope is visible and will bother you every time you look at it.
The third is drilling at the wrong height. Measure twice from the top of the window frame, mark with a pencil, and double-check before drilling. A hole in the wrong spot cannot be filled invisibly, and you will have to drill again a few inches away.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install curtains on a rental apartment wall?
Yes, but use damage-free methods. Command hooks and adhesive strips rated for curtain rods exist, though they work only on lightweight rods. For a standard rod, drill small holes and use drywall anchors—the holes are straightforward to patch with spackling compound when you move. Ask your landlord first; most allow it if you agree to patch the holes.
What if I hit a pipe or wire when drilling?
Stop when ready and move your bracket location 6 inches to the left or right. Pipes and wires run vertically down walls, so moving horizontally avoids them. If you are unsure, use a stud finder with a wire-detection mode, or call a handyperson to locate them first.
How do I know if my drywall anchor is strong enough?
Check the weight rating printed on the anchor package or bracket box. Weigh your curtains (or estimate: lightweight fabric is 1 to 2 pounds per panel, blackout is 3 to 5 pounds). The anchor should be rated for at least twice the curtain weight. When in doubt, use a toggle bolt or hit a stud instead.
Do I need a center support bracket for a wide window?
If your rod spans more than 60 inches and holds heavy curtains, a center bracket prevents sagging. For lightweight curtains under 60 inches, the two end brackets are usually enough. A handyperson can advise based on your specific rod and curtains.
What is the difference between a standard rod and a tension rod?
A standard rod requires brackets screwed into the wall. A tension rod twists to expand and press against the window frame, needing no holes. Tension rods work on any wall type and are renter-friendly, but hold less weight and work only on windows with a frame to press against. They cost $10 to $40 and take two minutes to install.