What to do when your dryer stops working
A dryer that won't heat, won't turn on, or makes noise usually needs one of three things: a part replacement, a professional cleaning, or replacement. The decision depends on the dryer's age, what's actually broken, and whether the repair costs more than half the price of a new unit. Most repairs run $150 to $400 for parts and labor; a new dryer costs $400 to $1,200 depending on features.
Before you call a repair person, check whether the dryer is actually broken or just clogged. A dryer that runs but doesn't heat often has a blocked vent or lint trap, not a failed heating element. A dryer that won't start may have a tripped circuit breaker or a door latch that needs cleaning. These fixes cost nothing or under $50.
Key Takeaways
- Check the lint trap, vent hose, and circuit breaker yourself first—many "broken" dryers are just clogged or unplugged.
- A repair makes sense if the dryer is under 8 years old and the repair costs less than half the price of a new dryer.
- Common repairs like heating element replacement, thermal fuse replacement, and drum bearing replacement each cost $200 to $400 with labor included.
- Gas dryers are more expensive to repair than electric dryers because the repair requires a licensed technician in most states.
- If you replace the dryer, choosing a simpler model without smart features or steam cycles will cost less and have fewer parts that can fail.
The most common dryer problems and what they cost to fix
A dryer that runs but produces no heat usually has a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or a clogged vent. The heating element itself costs $30 to $100, but labor to replace it runs $100 to $200, so the total is typically $150 to $300. A thermal fuse costs $10 to $25 in parts but the same labor applies, so expect $120 to $250 total. A clogged vent costs nothing if you clean it yourself with a shop vacuum and a vent brush, or $100 to $200 if you hire someone.
A dryer that won't start at all usually has a broken door latch, a failed thermal fuse, or a broken start button. The door latch costs $50 to $150 in parts plus $75 to $150 in labor. The start button costs $30 to $80 in parts plus labor. A dryer that makes a loud squealing or thumping noise usually has a worn drum bearing or idler pulley; both repairs run $200 to $400 with labor.
Gas dryers that don't heat may have a failed igniter or a gas valve that won't open. These repairs require a technician licensed in gas work in most states, which adds to the labor cost. Expect $250 to $500 for a gas dryer heating repair. Electric dryers are cheaper to repair because any handyman can do the work.
How to decide: repair or replace
The rule of thumb is to repair if the cost is less than half the price of a new dryer of similar quality. If a new dryer costs $600 and the repair is $250, repair it. If the repair is $400, you're at the borderline and should consider the dryer's age and condition.
A dryer older than 8 years is a candidate for replacement even if the current repair is cheap. Older dryers are more likely to have a second failure within a year or two. A dryer that has already had multiple repairs is also a sign to replace it. If you've paid for three or more separate repairs in the last three years, a new dryer will likely cost less over time than continuing to fix the old one.
If the dryer is under 5 years old and this is the first repair, repair it. If it's 5 to 8 years old, compare the repair cost to the cost of a new dryer and make the call based on that number. If it's over 8 years old, replacement is usually the better choice unless the repair is under $200.
Finding and hiring a dryer repair technician
Most dryer repairs are done by independent appliance repair shops, not by the manufacturer. You can find a technician through a web search for "appliance repair near me" or through referrals from friends or your landlord. Ask for a quote before the work starts; most shops will charge $50 to $100 for a service call and diagnosis, which is usually credited toward the repair if you go ahead.
When you call, tell the technician what the dryer is doing (won't heat, won't start, makes noise) and what brand and model it is. The model number is usually on a sticker inside the door or on the back of the unit. Having this information ready speeds up the quote process. Ask whether the shop charges a flat rate for common repairs or an hourly rate, and whether parts are may provide.
Some manufacturers offer repair services through their own networks, but these are usually more expensive than independent shops. If your dryer is still under warranty, check the warranty paperwork to see whether repairs are covered or whether you have to use the manufacturer's service.
What you can fix yourself
Cleaning the lint trap and vent hose is something any homeowner can do and should do before calling a repair person. Remove the lint trap after every load and wipe it with a dry cloth. Once a month, disconnect the vent hose from the back of the dryer and use a shop vacuum or a vent brush to clear lint buildup inside the hose and the vent opening on the outside of your home.
If the dryer won't start, check that it's plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. Reset the breaker by switching it all the way off and then back on. Check that the door closes fully and that the door latch clicks when you close it. If the door latch is loose or cracked, you can replace it yourself if you're comfortable removing the front panel of the dryer; the part costs $50 to $150 and takes 30 to 60 minutes to install.
Replacing a thermal fuse is also a do-it-yourself job if you're mechanically inclined. The part costs $10 to $25, and you'll need to remove the front or back panel depending on the model. If you're not comfortable taking apart an appliance, this is worth paying a technician to do.
Choosing a new dryer if replacement makes sense
If you decide to replace the dryer, a simpler model will cost less and have fewer parts that can fail. A basic electric dryer with a dial timer and a few heat settings costs $400 to $600. A dryer with a digital display and moisture sensors costs $600 to $900. A dryer with smart features, steam cycles, or Wi-Fi connectivity costs $900 to $1,500 or more.
Gas dryers cost $100 to $300 more than electric dryers of the same quality, but they dry clothes faster and cost less to run over time if you use them frequently. If you're replacing a gas dryer, a new gas dryer is usually the right choice. If you're replacing an electric dryer, switching to gas requires a gas line to be run to the laundry area, which costs $300 to $1,000 depending on distance and whether the line already exists.
Ventless dryers (heat pump or condensing models) cost $1,000 to $2,000 but use less energy and don't require a vent hose. They dry clothes more slowly than vented dryers, so they're best if you have time and don't do large loads frequently. Standard vented dryers are the most common choice because they're affordable and fast.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my dryer vent is clogged?
A clogged vent is the most common reason a dryer stops heating. If the dryer runs but clothes stay damp after a full cycle, or if the outside of the dryer gets very hot, the vent is likely blocked. Go outside and feel the vent opening—if little or no air is coming out, the vent needs cleaning. You can clean it yourself with a shop vacuum and a flexible vent brush, which costs $15 to $30.
Can I use my dryer while waiting for a repair appointment?
It depends on what's wrong. If the dryer won't heat, it's safe to use but won't dry clothes. If the dryer won't start, don't force it. If the dryer makes a loud noise, stop using it—a worn drum bearing or pulley can damage the drum itself if you keep running it, which makes the repair more expensive. Call the repair shop and ask whether it's safe to use the dryer while you wait.
What's the difference between a thermal fuse and a thermostat?
A thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows if the dryer overheats, stopping the dryer completely. Once blown, it must be replaced. A thermostat is a reusable sensor that turns the heat on and off to keep the temperature steady. A blown thermal fuse means the dryer won't heat at all; a bad thermostat means the dryer won't reach the right temperature. Both cost $100 to $250 to replace with labor.
Is it worth paying extra for a dryer with a moisture sensor?
A moisture sensor stops the dryer when clothes are dry instead of running for a set time, which saves energy and prevents over-drying. If you dry multiple loads per week, the energy savings add up over time. The extra cost is usually $100 to $200 upfront. If you dry fewer than three loads per week, the savings may not justify the extra cost or the extra complexity if something breaks.