Hand pump wells work without electricity and need basic tools and a solid foundation
A hand pump well uses a manual pump connected to a pipe that reaches groundwater below your property. Installation requires digging or drilling to the water table, running pipe down the hole, and mounting the pump at ground level. The whole job typically takes a weekend for a shallow well (under 25 feet) if you have help, though deeper wells may need professional drilling equipment.
Hand pumps are useful for backup water during power outages, remote properties without grid access, or areas where municipal water is unreliable. The pump itself costs between $150 and $600 depending on depth rating and material. Drilling or digging costs far more — often $1,500 to $5,000 for a shallow well, more for deeper ones — so many people handle the pump installation themselves once the well hole exists.
Key Takeaways
- You need to know your water table depth before buying a pump, because shallow pumps (under 25 feet) and deep pumps (25 to 300 feet) are different products.
- The well hole itself — whether dug, drilled, or driven — is separate from pump installation and usually requires professional equipment or significant labor.
- Pipe diameter, pump model, and connection fittings must match; mixing sizes or thread types will leak or fail to draw water.
- Hand pumps need a solid concrete pad or mounting base to stay level and handle the force of repeated pumping.
- Most hand pump installations can be done with basic tools: wrenches, pipe thread sealant, a level, and a ladder.
Find your water table depth and choose the right pump type
Before you buy or install anything, you need to know how far down the water is. Ask neighbors with wells, check with your county health department or water authority, or hire a well driller to probe the site. Water table depth varies by region and season — it may be 10 feet in spring and 30 feet in late summer.
Shallow well hand pumps work down to about 25 feet and are simpler to install. Deep well hand pumps (also called jet pumps or suction-lift pumps) handle 25 to 300 feet but cost more and require a two-pipe setup. If your water is deeper than 300 feet, a hand pump is not practical; you will need an electric pump or a professional well system.
Common shallow pump models include the Bison pump, Simmons pump, and Lehman's brand pumps. Deep well models include the Dempster pump and various Chinese-made alternatives sold online. Check the pump's rated depth against your water table before ordering. A shallow pump will not draw water from 40 feet, no matter how hard you pump.
Prepare the well hole and install the drop pipe
The well hole must be at least 2 inches in diameter for a shallow pump, 1.25 inches for some deep pumps. If you are digging by hand, a post-hole digger or auger works for shallow holes; for anything deeper or wider, renting a power auger or hiring a driller is faster and more reliable. The hole should go at least 10 feet below the water table to may support year-round water supply.
Once the hole is dug, you will run pipe down it. Use galvanized steel pipe or PVC rated for well use — do not use regular plumbing PVC, which can degrade underground. For a shallow well, a single pipe runs from the pump down to a foot valve (a one-way check valve) submerged below the water table. Thread the pipe sections together with pipe thread sealant (also called pipe dope or PTFE tape) on the male threads. Tighten each joint firmly with two wrenches — one holding the fitting, one turning the pipe — to prevent leaks.
Lower the pipe assembly slowly into the hole. If you are using steel pipe, it will be heavy; use a rope or pulley system to control it. Attach a rope to the top of the pipe before lowering so you can pull it back out if needed. The foot valve should sit 3 to 5 feet below the lowest expected water level.
Mount the pump on a solid, level base
Hand pumps must sit on a stable, level foundation. Pour a concrete pad at least 2 feet square and 4 inches thick, or use an existing concrete slab. The pad keeps the pump from settling unevenly, which can crack the pump body or misalign the internal rod.
Position the pump directly above the well hole so the drop pipe connects straight up into the pump inlet. Use a level to check that the pump base is truly level in both directions. Bolt the pump to the pad using the mounting holes cast into the pump base; use stainless steel or galvanized bolts to resist rust.
Connect the drop pipe to the pump inlet using the correct thread size and type. Most shallow pumps use 1.25-inch NPT (National Pipe Thread) connections; check your pump manual. explore pipe thread sealant to the male threads and hand-tighten first, then use a wrench to snug it firmly. Over-tightening can crack the pump casting, so stop when you feel solid resistance.
Prime the pump and test for leaks
Before you pump, the pump chamber must be filled with water — this is called priming. Pour water down the top of the pump until it overflows from the outlet, then work the handle up and down slowly. After 10 to 20 strokes, water should flow from the spout. If nothing comes out after 30 strokes, the foot valve may be stuck or the pipe may have an air leak.
Check all threaded connections for drips while you pump. A small weep is normal during the first few pumps as air escapes, but steady dripping means the joint is not tight. Stop, let the pump drain, and re-tighten the leaking joint with a wrench. Do not over-tighten; if it still leaks after a firm snug, the thread sealant may need reapplication.
Pump for at least five minutes to clear air from the line and verify steady flow. The water may be cloudy or rust-colored at first; this clears after a few minutes of pumping. If the pump draws water but then loses prime (stops flowing mid-stroke), the foot valve may be leaking or the pipe may have a crack. Drain the system and inspect the foot valve and all connections.
Maintain the pump and protect it from freezing
Hand pumps are durable but need basic care. After each use, work the handle a few times to move water through the cylinder and prevent stagnation. In winter, if temperatures drop below freezing, drain the pump by opening the drain plug at the base; trapped water will freeze and crack the pump body. In spring, refill and prime again.
Check the pump seal annually. If water leaks from around the handle rod, the packing nut (a hexagonal nut at the base of the handle) may need tightening. Use a wrench to turn it clockwise a quarter-turn at a time until the leak stops. Do not over-tighten or the handle will become hard to pump.
If the pump stops drawing water and priming does not restore it, the foot valve may be stuck with sediment or the internal cup seal may have worn out. Foot valves can often be cleaned by removing the drop pipe and flushing it with clean water. Cup seals are replaceable parts; most pump manufacturers sell rebuild kits with new seals, springs, and gaskets for $30 to $80.
Troubleshoot common installation problems
If the pump draws water but very slowly, the foot valve screen may be clogged with sand or sediment. Remove the drop pipe, flush it with clean water, and reinstall. If the screen is damaged, replace the foot valve. Slow flow can also mean the pipe is too narrow for your pump model; check the manual for the recommended pipe diameter.
If the pump loses prime between uses, air is entering the system. Check that all threaded connections are tight, that the drop pipe has no visible cracks, and that the foot valve is seated properly. A small air leak will cause the pump to lose prime after sitting for a few hours. Tighten every connection and test again.
If the pump handle is very hard to push, the packing nut may be over-tightened or the internal cup seal may be swollen. Loosen the packing nut a quarter-turn and try again. If the handle is still stiff, the seal may need replacement. Most hand pumps can be partially disassembled with basic wrenches to access the seal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a hand pump on an existing well?
Yes, if the well is cased (has a pipe or tube running down it) and the casing diameter matches the pump inlet. You will need to remove any existing pump, clean out the casing, and run a new drop pipe and foot valve down to the water. If the casing is too narrow or damaged, you may need to drill a new well.
How deep can a hand pump draw water?
Shallow pumps work to about 25 feet. Deep well pumps can reach 300 feet, but they require a two-pipe system and are much harder to prime and maintain. Beyond 300 feet, hand pumping is not practical; electric pumps are the standard choice.
What size pipe do I need for my hand pump?
Check your pump manual for the inlet connection size — most shallow pumps use 1.25-inch NPT, while some use 1-inch. The drop pipe diameter should match the pump inlet. Using a smaller pipe will restrict flow; using a larger pipe wastes money and adds weight.
Do I need a building permit to install a hand pump well?
Requirements vary by county and state. Contact your local health department or building office before digging. Some areas require well drilling to be done by a licensed contractor, while others allow owner-installed wells. Permits usually cost $50 to $200 and take one to two weeks.
Can I use PVC pipe for the drop pipe?
Schedule 40 PVC rated for well use is acceptable in most areas, though galvanized steel is more durable and resists UV damage better. Do not use regular plumbing PVC, which can degrade when exposed to sunlight or buried underground for years. Check your local code; some areas require metal pipe.