Hand well pumps work best on shallow wells and need solid mounting, proper sealing, and a working check valve
A hand well pump sits on top of your well casing and draws water up through a pipe by hand. Installation means bolting the pump to the casing, connecting the drop pipe that reaches the water, sealing the top so dirt and air do not enter, and making sure a check valve stops water from flowing backward. Most hand pumps take two to four hours to install if you have the right tools and the well casing is already in place. The pump itself costs between $150 and $600 depending on depth and material; the rest of the job is labour and small parts.
The difference between a successful installation and a failing one usually comes down to three things: the drop pipe reaching the water, the check valve working correctly, and the well being sealed against contamination. If any of these three fails, the pump will not prime or will lose prime quickly. This guide walks you through each step in order, from measuring your well to testing the finished pump.
Key Takeaways
- Hand pumps work on wells up to about 25 feet deep; deeper wells need a jet pump or submersible pump instead.
- The pump bolts to a flange on top of the well casing, and the drop pipe must reach within a few feet of the water table.
- A check valve in the drop pipe stops water from draining back down when you stop pumping, and priming the pump with water is required before the first use.
- Sealing the top of the well casing with a sanitary cap prevents contamination and keeps insects and debris out of your water supply.
- If the pump loses prime or stops producing water, the check valve or drop pipe connection is usually the problem.
Measure your well depth and choose the right pump type
Hand pumps come in two main styles: shallow-well pumps for depths up to 25 feet, and deep-well pumps for 25 to 100 feet. Measure the distance from the top of your well casing to the water surface using a weighted string or a well probe. If you do not know the depth, lower a tape measure with a weight on the end until it hits water, then note the length.
Shallow-well pumps are cheaper and simpler; they sit on top of the casing and pull water up directly. Deep-well pumps use a longer drop pipe and a foot valve at the bottom, which makes them heavier and more complex. If your well is deeper than 25 feet and you want a hand pump, you will need a deep-well model. For wells shallower than 25 feet, a shallow-well pump is faster to install and easier to maintain.
Gather tools and materials before you start
You will need an adjustable wrench, a pipe wrench, a level, a hacksaw or pipe cutter, plumber's tape (also called thread seal tape), and a bucket for priming. For the pump itself, have the manufacturer's instructions on hand — every pump is slightly different. You will also need the drop pipe (usually galvanized steel or PVC), a check valve sized to match your pipe diameter, a sanitary well cap, and pipe fittings to connect everything.
If the well casing does not already have a flange bolted to the top, you will need a flange kit that matches your casing diameter. Flanges come in 4-inch, 5-inch, and 6-inch sizes. Measure the outside diameter of your casing with a tape measure to order the right size. Have all materials on site before you begin, because stopping mid-installation to run for a fitting wastes time and leaves the well open to contamination.
Install the flange and find the pump to the casing
If a flange is not already bolted to the top of your well casing, install one first. The flange is a metal ring with bolt holes that sits on top of the casing and holds the pump in place. Measure the casing diameter, order a flange that matches, and bolt it down with stainless steel bolts and washers. Tighten the bolts in a cross pattern (opposite sides first) so the flange sits level on the casing.
Once the flange is find, set the pump on top and align the bolt holes. Insert bolts through the pump base and the flange, add washers and nuts, and tighten them firmly but not so hard that you crack the pump casting. Use a level to check that the pump is vertical — a tilted pump will wear unevenly and may not prime correctly. Tighten the bolts again after the pump has been running for a few hours, because vibration can loosen them.
Connect the drop pipe and install the check valve
The drop pipe runs from the pump down into the well and must reach within 2 to 3 feet of the water surface. Measure the distance from the pump outlet to the water level, then cut your drop pipe to that length plus 6 inches. If you are using galvanized steel pipe, have it threaded at a hardware store or use compression fittings. PVC pipe is lighter and easier to cut with a hacksaw, but some wells require metal pipe for durability.
The check valve goes at the bottom of the drop pipe and allows water to flow up but not back down. Thread or glue the check valve to the bottom end of the drop pipe, then connect the top end to the pump outlet using the fitting that came with your pump. Wrap the threads with plumber's tape before connecting to prevent leaks. Lower the drop pipe slowly into the well casing, guiding it so it does not catch on the casing walls. If the pipe binds, pull it up slightly and try again at a different angle.
Prime the pump and test for leaks
Priming means filling the pump chamber with water so it can draw water from the well. Pour a bucket of water into the top of the pump while working the handle up and down. You should feel resistance as the pump fills. Keep priming until water flows from the spout — this usually takes 10 to 20 strokes. If water does not appear after 30 strokes, the check valve may be stuck or the drop pipe may not be reaching the water.
Once water flows, pump for another minute to clear air from the system. Check all connections for drips. If water leaks from a threaded joint, turn off the pump, let it drain, and tighten the fitting with a wrench. If the leak continues, unscrew the fitting, wrap the threads with more plumber's tape, and reconnect. Do not over-tighten — you can crack the fitting or strip the threads.
Seal the well casing and finish the installation
A sanitary well cap screws onto the top of the casing around the pump base and keeps dirt, insects, and rainwater out of the well. The cap has a rubber gasket that seals against the casing. Screw the cap down hand-tight, then use a wrench to snug it another quarter turn. Do not over-tighten, or you may crack the gasket.
If the well casing is not sealed below the pump, water can seep in around the edges. Some installations use a concrete collar around the casing to slope water away and prevent pooling. Check local well codes — many areas require a concrete pad or slope around the well to prevent surface runoff from entering. Once the cap is on and the area is sealed, your pump is ready for regular use. Pump it a few times each day to keep the system primed, especially if you do not use it daily.
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep can a hand pump pull water from?
Shallow-well pumps work down to about 25 feet. Below that, atmospheric pressure is not strong enough to lift water all the way up. Deep-well hand pumps can reach 100 feet or more, but they are heavier and harder to operate. If your well is deeper than 100 feet, a hand pump is not practical — a jet pump or submersible pump is the better choice.
What does it mean when the pump loses prime?
The pump loses prime when air enters the system and breaks the water column. This usually happens if the check valve leaks, the drop pipe cracks, or the water level drops below the pipe intake. To restore prime, pour water back into the pump and work the handle until water flows again. If it keeps losing prime, the check valve needs replacement.
Can I use PVC pipe for the drop pipe?
PVC works for shallow wells and is easier to cut and connect than metal pipe. However, some wells require galvanized steel because PVC can crack under pressure or sunlight over time. Check your local well code and the pump manufacturer's instructions — they will specify which materials are allowed in your area.
How often should I maintain a hand pump?
Hand pumps need little maintenance if installed correctly. Pump it a few times each week to keep the system primed. Once a year, check that all bolts are tight and the sanitary cap is sealed. If the pump becomes hard to operate or stops producing water, the check valve or internal seals may need replacement — contact the manufacturer for parts and instructions.
What if water comes out but then stops after a few strokes?
The pump has lost prime again, usually because the check valve is leaking or the drop pipe is not deep enough. Prime it again and watch how long it takes to lose water. If it happens within a minute, the check valve is failing and needs replacement. If it takes longer, the water level may have dropped and the pipe intake is above the water surface — lower the drop pipe deeper into the well.