What you need to know before you start
A shallow well pump installation is a project you can do yourself if you have basic plumbing skills and the right tools, but it requires careful planning and some physical work. The pump sits above ground (unlike a submersible pump that goes down into the well), and it pulls water up through a suction line from the well casing. Most shallow well pumps can lift water from depths up to 25 feet, though some models go to 30 feet.
Before you begin, you need to know your well's depth, the diameter of your well casing, and whether you have an existing pump to remove. You also need to decide whether to install the pump indoors (in a pump house or basement) or outdoors in a weatherproof enclosure. Indoor installation is easier to maintain but requires frost protection in cold climates. Outdoor installation is simpler for some setups but exposes the pump to freezing temperatures.
If your well is deeper than 25 feet, a shallow well pump will not work—you will need a submersible pump instead. If you are uncertain about your well depth or the condition of your casing, have a well professional inspect it first. A cracked or corroded casing can contaminate your water and make any pump installation unsafe.
Key Takeaways
- Shallow well pumps work only on wells 25 feet deep or less and must be installed above ground in a protected location.
- You will need a pump, a check valve, a foot valve, suction line, discharge line, pressure tank, and basic plumbing fittings—all sized to match your well casing diameter.
- The suction line from the well to the pump must be airtight and sloped downward toward the pump to prevent air leaks that will break the pump's prime.
- Priming the pump (filling it with water) is essential before the first start, and you must do this every time you break the suction line.
- If your well casing is corroded, cracked, or smaller than 2 inches in diameter, call a well professional before proceeding.
Gather the right pump and parts
A shallow well pump system has several parts that must work together. The pump itself is usually a centrifugal pump rated for shallow wells—common models include the Simmons 2755, the Flotec FP4242, or similar units in the 0.5 to 1.5 horsepower range. The pump connects to a check valve (which prevents water from flowing backward) and a foot valve (which sits at the bottom of the suction line in the well and keeps the line full of water). You will also need a pressure tank to store water and reduce how often the pump cycles on and off.
The suction line—the pipe that runs from the well to the pump—must be the right diameter for your well casing. Most wells have 2-inch, 4-inch, or 6-inch casings. The suction line is usually one size smaller than the casing (so a 1.5-inch line for a 2-inch casing). Use rigid PVC or galvanized steel pipe, not flexible hose, because flexible hose can collapse under the suction and break the pump's prime. The discharge line (from the pump to the pressure tank and house) is typically 1-inch PVC or galvanized steel.
You will also need stainless steel hose clamps, PVC primer and cement (if using PVC), thread-seal tape, a pressure gauge, a relief valve, and a union fitting at the pump so you can remove it later without cutting pipes. Buy all parts before you start—running out mid-installation is frustrating and can damage the pump if it sits primed but unused for too long.
Prepare the well and install the foot valve
If you are replacing an old pump, turn off the power and drain the system completely. Disconnect the old suction and discharge lines and remove the pump. If the old foot valve is still in the well, you can leave it if it is in good condition, or pull it out and replace it with a new one.
To install a new foot valve, you need to lower it down the well casing on the suction line. The foot valve screws onto the bottom end of the suction line before you lower it. Assemble the suction line sections on the ground first, screwing them together with thread-seal tape on all male threads. Once the line is the right length to reach the bottom of your well (or to within a few feet of the bottom), screw the foot valve onto the bottom end.
Slowly lower the suction line and foot valve down the well casing. You can use a rope tied to the line to control the descent, or have a helper guide it. Stop when the foot valve is near the bottom—it does not have to touch bottom, but it should be submerged in water. find the top of the suction line to the well casing with a clamp so it cannot slip down. The line should slope slightly downward from the pump toward the well to help water flow back toward the pump when it is running.
Mount the pump and connect the suction line
Install the pump on a concrete pad or sturdy platform near the well, ideally indoors or in a weatherproof pump house. The pump must be level and stable—vibration from an unbalanced pump will damage seals and shorten its life. If you are installing it outdoors, build or buy a small enclosure that protects it from rain and freezing temperatures but allows air circulation for cooling.
Connect the suction line from the well to the inlet port on the pump. Use a union fitting at the pump connection so you can disconnect the pump later without cutting the line. Wrap all threaded connections with thread-seal tape and tighten them firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack fittings. The suction line must be airtight—even a small leak will break the pump's prime and it will stop working. Check all connections with soapy water after you tighten them; bubbles mean air is leaking in.
Install a check valve on the discharge side of the pump (the outlet port). The check valve has an arrow showing the direction of flow—make sure the arrow points away from the pump toward the pressure tank. The check valve prevents water from flowing backward through the pump when it shuts off, which would damage the pump impeller.
Connect the discharge line and pressure tank
Run the discharge line from the check valve to the pressure tank. The pressure tank is a metal or composite tank that stores pressurized water and reduces how often the pump starts and stops. Most residential shallow well systems use a 20 to 40-gallon tank. The tank has a threaded inlet port where the discharge line connects, and outlet ports for water going to the house and for a pressure gauge and relief valve.
Connect the discharge line to the tank inlet with thread-seal tape on all threads. Install a pressure gauge on one of the tank ports so you can monitor system pressure—typical shallow well systems run at 40 to 60 pounds per square inch (PSI). Install a relief valve set to open at 60 PSI; this protects the tank and pipes if pressure gets too high. Both the gauge and relief valve screw directly into the tank ports.
From the tank outlet, run a line to your house or to wherever you need water. This line can be flexible hose or rigid pipe depending on your setup. Make sure the tank is supported on a level surface and secured so it cannot tip over if it is large or full.
Prime the pump and test the system
Before you start the pump for the first time, you must prime it—fill it completely with water so it can create suction. Remove the priming plug (a small bolt on top of the pump housing) and pour water in until it overflows. Replace the plug and tighten it firmly. If the pump does not have a priming plug, you may need to fill the suction line with water using a funnel at the top of the well casing, or use a priming kit that temporarily connects a water source to the pump inlet.
Turn on the pump and listen for it to start pulling water. You should hear a change in sound as the pump begins to move water. Watch the pressure gauge—it should rise from zero to 40 PSI or so within a minute or two. If the pump runs but the pressure does not rise, the prime has been lost, which usually means air is leaking into the suction line. Turn off the pump, re-prime it, and check all suction line connections for leaks.
Once the pump is running and pressure is building, check for leaks at all connections. Wipe each joint with a dry cloth and watch for water seeping out. Tighten any leaking connections slightly, but do not force them. If a connection continues to leak after tightening, turn off the pump, drain the system, and re-seal the threads with fresh tape.
Set pressure and adjust for your climate
Most shallow well pumps are set to turn on at 40 PSI and turn off at 60 PSI. You can adjust these settings by changing the air pressure in the pressure tank or by adjusting the pressure switch on the pump. The pressure switch is usually a small box mounted on the pump or tank with two adjustment nuts. Consult your pump's manual for the exact procedure, as it varies by model.
If you live in a climate where temperatures drop below freezing, you must protect the pump and all exposed pipes from freezing. Drain the system completely before winter, or install heat tape and insulation around exposed pipes. A frozen pump is damaged beyond repair. If you are installing the pump indoors in a heated space, freezing is not a concern, but you still need to drain outdoor lines.
Run the system for a few hours and check that water is flowing to your house at normal pressure. If pressure is low, the pump may not be primed correctly, the foot valve may be clogged, or the suction line may have a leak. If pressure is too high (above 60 PSI), the relief valve should open and release water—if it does not, the valve may be stuck and should be replaced.
When to call a professional
If your well is deeper than 25 feet, you need a submersible pump, not a shallow well pump. A well professional can measure your well depth and recommend the right pump for your situation. If your well casing is corroded, cracked, or smaller than 2 inches in diameter, have it inspected and repaired before installing any pump—a damaged casing can contaminate your water.
If you prime the pump multiple times and it still will not hold prime, the suction line likely has a leak that is difficult to find. A well professional has tools to pressure-test the line and locate the leak. If the pump runs but produces very little water, the foot valve may be clogged with sediment, or the well itself may be running dry—both situations require professional diagnosis.
Electrical work on the pump motor should be done by a licensed electrician. If you are not comfortable wiring the pump to your home's electrical panel, hire an electrician to do it. A poorly wired pump is a fire and shock hazard.
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep can a shallow well pump pull water from?
Most shallow well pumps can lift water from depths up to 25 feet, and some models are rated to 30 feet. Beyond that, the suction becomes too strong and the pump cannot maintain prime. If your well is deeper, you need a submersible pump instead.
What does it mean when the pump loses prime?
Losing prime means air has entered the suction line and the pump can no longer pull water. The pump will run but produce no water. This usually happens because the suction line has a leak, the foot valve is stuck, or the line was not filled with water before the first start. Re-prime the pump and check all connections for leaks.
Can I install a shallow well pump outdoors in winter?
You can install it, but you must drain the system completely before freezing temperatures arrive, or insulate and heat all exposed pipes. A frozen pump is permanently damaged. Indoor installation in a heated space is much simpler if your well is near your house.
Do I need a pressure tank?
A pressure tank is not strictly required, but it is strongly recommended. Without one, the pump starts and stops every time you turn on a faucet, which wears out the motor and switch much faster. A tank stores water under pressure so the pump runs less often and lasts longer.
What size suction line do I need?
The suction line should be one size smaller than your well casing. A 2-inch casing uses a 1.5-inch line, a 4-inch casing uses a 3-inch line, and so on. Check your well casing diameter before you buy parts. Using a line that is too small will restrict water flow and reduce pump output.